Thursday, December 6, 2007
Sadness
I showed up for my class with Vuk, the 16 year-old pianist who wants to study in US next year, only to learn that his father Dušan had died on Tuesday. He had cancer that they'd discovered only 2 months ago, apparently it was faster than they'd imagined. The funeral's on Friday. Vuk's taking the TOEFL on Saturday. Please keep the Jovanović family (Vuk's younger brother and mother) in your thoughts and prayers, they need it.
Monday, December 3, 2007
Since we've established that France is a country... is Europe?
Just as I'm getting all excited and ready to head back to the states, I see this:
And suddenly I'm a bit a feared. And inspired to brush up my geography once again.
And suddenly I'm a bit a feared. And inspired to brush up my geography once again.
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Thanksgiving and the aftermath
I actually found a pie plate and fresh ginger, allowing me to begin my Thanksgiving the wee smalls of the morning with apple pie making. (Kate couldn't resist the pun that she was glad it panned out.) I'd gotten good news Wednesday night - one of my students wants class 5 days a week, 2 hours a day! - and had gone to Dragana's to gush a bit, ended up chatting with folks there, going for cevap... yes, yes, you've heard this all before. What was different though was getting home at midnight with a pie to make for a dinner that started at 3 p.m. that day. So I watched "Funny Face" as I peeled apples, talked to some folks back home and had a pie ready to go around 3:30 a.m. or so. The joys of night baking.
I had a class with my printer student, then came home with the TV he's loaned me (super rad) before gathering things to go pick up Cassandra, my Thanksgiving date. Once again the taxi had no idea where Eric's street was but managed to get there nonetheless. It was a crowd of mostly embassy types, Cassie and I were exceptions since she's running a NGO here and I'm, well, an English teacher. Made some friends that I hope to see soon - we're going to start cooking together with Andrea, from Chili and married to an American (she claims to be one of the few Latino women who doesn't cook), had someone else tell me to take the foreign service exam (ummmmm, don't think so), also planning on a Beastie Boys inspired games night. Yes my friends, I might appear to be classy but that never stopped games nights! Thankfully. I also realized as the afternoon wore on that Cassie and I were basically the only non-couple there; do you have to be married to be in foreign service? This is my question. But we were definitely fun, there's no doubt about that. Any gathering where you end up reading picture books to 5 year old twins, well, heeelllllo? MAJOR party action there.
We ate a TON of food, I've not been that stuffed in a long time. Turkey was 25 lbs. and fabulous, they did it in brine and then with citrus, no stuffing. And the desserts... truly wondrous. Pies and brownies and peanut butter cookies... yum. Perhaps I'll take up Sally's idea of becoming a food columnist sometime sooner than later, we'll see. Got a ride to Cassie's with the thought of continuing the festivities but I was exhausted (little sleep + turkey = fatigue) so headed home instead. Then had the joy of talking to the Qualls crew gathered at my home for a good long while; I really hope to be there next year if it's at all possible.
Unlike most of my fellow Americans who work here, I did not have a four-day weekend (being a "private contractor") and went back to the grind of classes the next day. Thankfully I was able to get outside a bit in the sun on Saturday since I had a huge hole in my schedule with teen classes and had lunch at this new restaurant Wok to Walk - clever eh? It almost felt like a real weekend... until I had to go back to class. Again, a lament you've heard so I won't repeat it too terribly much. Or at least try not to. But it looks like I'll be working everyday before I get back to the states; that's something to be thankful for as well I suppose.
Hope you also had a fine time with food, friends, and family. I'm getting excited about Christmas time festivities now and all the fun that'll be.
I had a class with my printer student, then came home with the TV he's loaned me (super rad) before gathering things to go pick up Cassandra, my Thanksgiving date. Once again the taxi had no idea where Eric's street was but managed to get there nonetheless. It was a crowd of mostly embassy types, Cassie and I were exceptions since she's running a NGO here and I'm, well, an English teacher. Made some friends that I hope to see soon - we're going to start cooking together with Andrea, from Chili and married to an American (she claims to be one of the few Latino women who doesn't cook), had someone else tell me to take the foreign service exam (ummmmm, don't think so), also planning on a Beastie Boys inspired games night. Yes my friends, I might appear to be classy but that never stopped games nights! Thankfully. I also realized as the afternoon wore on that Cassie and I were basically the only non-couple there; do you have to be married to be in foreign service? This is my question. But we were definitely fun, there's no doubt about that. Any gathering where you end up reading picture books to 5 year old twins, well, heeelllllo? MAJOR party action there.
We ate a TON of food, I've not been that stuffed in a long time. Turkey was 25 lbs. and fabulous, they did it in brine and then with citrus, no stuffing. And the desserts... truly wondrous. Pies and brownies and peanut butter cookies... yum. Perhaps I'll take up Sally's idea of becoming a food columnist sometime sooner than later, we'll see. Got a ride to Cassie's with the thought of continuing the festivities but I was exhausted (little sleep + turkey = fatigue) so headed home instead. Then had the joy of talking to the Qualls crew gathered at my home for a good long while; I really hope to be there next year if it's at all possible.
Unlike most of my fellow Americans who work here, I did not have a four-day weekend (being a "private contractor") and went back to the grind of classes the next day. Thankfully I was able to get outside a bit in the sun on Saturday since I had a huge hole in my schedule with teen classes and had lunch at this new restaurant Wok to Walk - clever eh? It almost felt like a real weekend... until I had to go back to class. Again, a lament you've heard so I won't repeat it too terribly much. Or at least try not to. But it looks like I'll be working everyday before I get back to the states; that's something to be thankful for as well I suppose.
Hope you also had a fine time with food, friends, and family. I'm getting excited about Christmas time festivities now and all the fun that'll be.
Sunday, November 18, 2007
Prvi sneg!
It's been snowing for 2 days now - so beautiful in the morning, the fresh cover of white over everything. We've gotten a good couple inches, although once I get on the street the gray slush becomes less appealing as the day wears on. Also sidewalks don't seem to get cleaned off here, the streets barely scraped as well, so it's treacherous walking. Oddly enough the paths in the park I cut through to get to my Saturday classes were perfectly clean with plows in view and everything. Also saw a cute little kid and his parents playing; they were some sort of Asian and it appeared to be his first snow, lots of pictures happening. Shaking the trees to make more fall, snowballs and laughter - brilliant.
The weather gives me then the perfect excuse to make banana bread and soup, not go out any more today but read instead. I've made a new American friend, Kate, who's Mennonite and doing volunteer work here for a year. She has friends who went to Earlham and we know at least one person in common - the world is way too small sometimes. But then again I never know who I'll meet when I do something like go to Urus's book group to talk about Poe. It was nice to just chat over tea and be all warm in the kitchen together.
Excited about Thanksgiving (although I need to find a pie plate) and my upcoming trip back home. But for now I think hot chocolate and a good book are in order; encourage you to do the same. Snow's good for this kinda thing.
The weather gives me then the perfect excuse to make banana bread and soup, not go out any more today but read instead. I've made a new American friend, Kate, who's Mennonite and doing volunteer work here for a year. She has friends who went to Earlham and we know at least one person in common - the world is way too small sometimes. But then again I never know who I'll meet when I do something like go to Urus's book group to talk about Poe. It was nice to just chat over tea and be all warm in the kitchen together.
Excited about Thanksgiving (although I need to find a pie plate) and my upcoming trip back home. But for now I think hot chocolate and a good book are in order; encourage you to do the same. Snow's good for this kinda thing.
Saturday, November 10, 2007
Visoko or: Pyramids? In where?
We last saw our heroes deciding to embark on a harrowing journey (remember, no one could tell them return times, only departures) relying only on their strength, Turkish coffee, and wits to make it to their destination (ok, ok, and a bus as well): mysterious pyramids reportedly found in Bosnia a bit outside of Sarajevo. Yes, this has been a nail-biting and harrowing cliffhanger I know - rest assured that I did not continue this post from any lasting ill-effects of the journey but simply due to that most terrible of excuses: work picked up and I've not had time.
After getting ourselves to the bus station only 10 minutes before the bus left, Mike and I headed to this mysterious place with only Dino's assurance that it was something real to guide us (I can't shake off the adventure/thriller tone, bear with me). I asked the conductor when the return buses were and threw him completely off- turns out that he was training and so anything not according to script was, well, upsetting. An older gentleman behind us rattled off the bus times with the ease of someone who makes the journey often - I was thankful once again that at least I have enough language for numbers and ask questions like this (when I despair about ever making progress it's good to reflect on the practical side). Arrival in Visoko found us sitting in the first cafe we came to desperately needing a coffee for Mike - my sleep deprivation takes the form of perkiness (call it a throwback to camp counselor days) whereas he becomes more zombie-like, not a stellar combo. The town was bigger than I'd expected, there were actually signs with pyramids on them (good) although the tourist office was closed (irritating). We walked through city center, then out into countryside again, aiming for Pyramid of the Sun that didn't seem to be too terribly far. Eventually we found a road that headed up and ran into a man painting - Mike walked in front of him and he went as if to roller brush Mike! I used the opportunity to ask directions - we were indeed headed the right way, and continued up this HUGE hill. Steps lead us to the base of the pyramid itself and a woman materialized shortly thereafter, a guide who gave us a history and explanation of what's been going on and what they hope to do. She was fabulous, walked us through the site and showed excavation sites, explained how politics have hindered progress as well as doubt that it's actually a man-made structure.
A note about that now - the lead archaeologist wants to connect these sites to lost Atlantis and some other far-fetched ideas; thus understandably there's skepticism about his findings. But after looking at 2 of them it's really obvious that these are man-made structures with squared-off blocks. Also the stones are completely different - so even if it's natural it's still incredible. Egyptian pyramid experts have come out and said they're pyramids as well - they would know, wouldn't they?
Anywho, we enjoyed poking around the Pyramid of the Sun, then got shortcut directions to Pyramid of the Moon and trekked that way. There met some more lovely folks, Harris in particular who showed us a little but then sat us down and chatted for about an hour. Obvious that tourist season has slowed down and folks looking for someone else to talk to besides colleagues. This pyramid was cool because it's a big spiral with the little steps leading to a central drainage point. Sweet stuff. (More info here as well although site isn't as good in my opinion).
Walking back to town passed a tiny bakery and got amazing hot fresh bread that you usually get with fast food, solum. Incredibly good. Caught a bus mid-afternoon, headed back to Sarajevo with the days events swirling around us. Nearing the city traffic steadily worsened to a crawl, the conductor tried to give us a drawing he'd discovered tucked away in overhead storage, and we got off the bus before it go to the station. Plan was to get back to Baščcaršija (Turkish quarter) and find Dino, but we got there only to find the place locked and empty, the women across the street saying he'd be in tomorrow. Argh! Revisited lovely cake shop, I bought Turkish delight, then some dinner food and a little walk but rain made that not so much fun. At bus station (again out far from center) ran into two Swiss guys who'd been on the bus from Belgrade as well, had a drink with them to help them use up their currency and chatted. The night bus back was nothing fun (although was a double decker) - I almost killed a man playing with his cellphone, all the tones on, but instead plotted how to say something cutting but came up with "neću da slušam" instead ("I don't want to listen"). It worked even if not elegant. And the conductor gave us apple candy at the border. Woohoo! Unfortunately Mike was really sick by that point and remained so for a few days, but got better before heading back to the states. Whew!
It was wild getting out of town for just a few days and then I started teaching my first private classes, so the timing was right. Good to be reminded of the joys of travel though, hopefully I can get some more cool trips made out of border runs as they come up... already plotting a little. But that's nothing new eh?
After getting ourselves to the bus station only 10 minutes before the bus left, Mike and I headed to this mysterious place with only Dino's assurance that it was something real to guide us (I can't shake off the adventure/thriller tone, bear with me). I asked the conductor when the return buses were and threw him completely off- turns out that he was training and so anything not according to script was, well, upsetting. An older gentleman behind us rattled off the bus times with the ease of someone who makes the journey often - I was thankful once again that at least I have enough language for numbers and ask questions like this (when I despair about ever making progress it's good to reflect on the practical side). Arrival in Visoko found us sitting in the first cafe we came to desperately needing a coffee for Mike - my sleep deprivation takes the form of perkiness (call it a throwback to camp counselor days) whereas he becomes more zombie-like, not a stellar combo. The town was bigger than I'd expected, there were actually signs with pyramids on them (good) although the tourist office was closed (irritating). We walked through city center, then out into countryside again, aiming for Pyramid of the Sun that didn't seem to be too terribly far. Eventually we found a road that headed up and ran into a man painting - Mike walked in front of him and he went as if to roller brush Mike! I used the opportunity to ask directions - we were indeed headed the right way, and continued up this HUGE hill. Steps lead us to the base of the pyramid itself and a woman materialized shortly thereafter, a guide who gave us a history and explanation of what's been going on and what they hope to do. She was fabulous, walked us through the site and showed excavation sites, explained how politics have hindered progress as well as doubt that it's actually a man-made structure.
A note about that now - the lead archaeologist wants to connect these sites to lost Atlantis and some other far-fetched ideas; thus understandably there's skepticism about his findings. But after looking at 2 of them it's really obvious that these are man-made structures with squared-off blocks. Also the stones are completely different - so even if it's natural it's still incredible. Egyptian pyramid experts have come out and said they're pyramids as well - they would know, wouldn't they?
Anywho, we enjoyed poking around the Pyramid of the Sun, then got shortcut directions to Pyramid of the Moon and trekked that way. There met some more lovely folks, Harris in particular who showed us a little but then sat us down and chatted for about an hour. Obvious that tourist season has slowed down and folks looking for someone else to talk to besides colleagues. This pyramid was cool because it's a big spiral with the little steps leading to a central drainage point. Sweet stuff. (More info here as well although site isn't as good in my opinion).
Walking back to town passed a tiny bakery and got amazing hot fresh bread that you usually get with fast food, solum. Incredibly good. Caught a bus mid-afternoon, headed back to Sarajevo with the days events swirling around us. Nearing the city traffic steadily worsened to a crawl, the conductor tried to give us a drawing he'd discovered tucked away in overhead storage, and we got off the bus before it go to the station. Plan was to get back to Baščcaršija (Turkish quarter) and find Dino, but we got there only to find the place locked and empty, the women across the street saying he'd be in tomorrow. Argh! Revisited lovely cake shop, I bought Turkish delight, then some dinner food and a little walk but rain made that not so much fun. At bus station (again out far from center) ran into two Swiss guys who'd been on the bus from Belgrade as well, had a drink with them to help them use up their currency and chatted. The night bus back was nothing fun (although was a double decker) - I almost killed a man playing with his cellphone, all the tones on, but instead plotted how to say something cutting but came up with "neću da slušam" instead ("I don't want to listen"). It worked even if not elegant. And the conductor gave us apple candy at the border. Woohoo! Unfortunately Mike was really sick by that point and remained so for a few days, but got better before heading back to the states. Whew!
It was wild getting out of town for just a few days and then I started teaching my first private classes, so the timing was right. Good to be reminded of the joys of travel though, hopefully I can get some more cool trips made out of border runs as they come up... already plotting a little. But that's nothing new eh?
Yet more politics
Why shouldn't we go to war in Iraq? Cheney gave some great reasons... in 1994. Perhaps it's age, perhaps it's distance, perhaps it's the fact that politics appear to get worse whenever they bring themselves to my attention. Or perhaps it's because my country is locked in a war that I don't believe in. And yet I try also not to fall into the mire of those who fuss about politics and do nothing about them as well. I've got a new student who's the director and editor in chief of a newspaper here, stay tuned for a potentially more political Bethany returning to the US this winter. But I've always liked being informed.
And I learned that Colbert stopped his bid for presidency as well. Found this reaction. Another thread to watch in the unfolding drama in ye olde homeland.
And I learned that Colbert stopped his bid for presidency as well. Found this reaction. Another thread to watch in the unfolding drama in ye olde homeland.
Sunday, November 4, 2007
Words words words
So everyone should check this out - freerice.com You do a self-adjusting vocab quiz and the UN donates rice to the hungry. Brilliance.
Teaching's picked up some more, I met an author last week who was an interesting character, and I promise to do a real update soon. But for now go donate rice with addictive word play. And tell your friends!
Teaching's picked up some more, I met an author last week who was an interesting character, and I promise to do a real update soon. But for now go donate rice with addictive word play. And tell your friends!
Sunday, October 21, 2007
Colbert - there are people who need Ts
Who'd of thought? I enjoy Colbert, truly, and the conversation with Meet the Press sounds brilliant, including the following:
When comedy and satire become real politics, that's something for sure. What exactly is not quite clear.... but hey, everyone seems to be running for president these days, so why not?Mr. Colbert: Are you saying that I don’t have the right to drop the T in my name? Are you saying that? Last time I checked, this was America. Or does that mean not a thing to you anymore?
Mr. Russert (holding up Bert) : Then why not call him “Ber”?
Mr. Colbert: Because that’s his choice. You’ll have to ask him. I dare you.
Mr. Russert: Are you…
Mr. Colbert: Ask him. Right now.
Mr. Russert: But why did you change your name?
Mr. Colbert: I changed my name because I knew that there were people out there who, who needed T’s.
Mr. Russert: Not comfortable in your own skin?
Mr. Colbert: Oh, I’m extremely comfortable in my own skin. I’m comfortable in other people’s skin.
Sunday, October 14, 2007
Sarajevo - the return
Last week saw Mike and I going to Sarajevo for a few days. We'd talked to my friend Tea's French boyfriend Rafael (the foreigners are invading with a vengeance it seems) at a party the other weekend and he was going on about how great it is, a little Turkish style place, heart of the Balkans, yadda yadda. I wasn't really working much and needed to make a border run for my visa anyway, so a few days later we decided to take off for a short trip since Mike'd never been.
The first adventure in a long string involved the bus. Julia called the station for us and they said there's one bus a day in either direction - I was skeptical but ok, that's something. We went to the station and discovered there are actually around seven daily. Lesson learned - go to the bus station when looking for information. Even if the lady behind the ticked window can't tell you return times the one behind the information window (conveniently located across the way) can. We ask about price for round trip tickets, leave and figure out that taking two night buses seems the way to go and get cash, then come back to buy the tickets. The first helpful lady, a woman who seemed more content and fluffy than one usually sees in public agents here, was gone so we went to the next window over. There a woman with dramatic dark hair informed us that we couldn't buy round trip tickets and that her colleague "didn't know what she was talking about." Our slightly worried queries about how we're then supposed to get back are met with scorn. New plan: buy tickets on arrival to Sarajevo for trip home.
Night buses have nice parts about them, but this one was a geriatric convention with the heat cranked up WAY too high. On the Serbian border we waited 45 minutes - I thought the conductor was going to tear his hair out. First one man got pulled off the bus, then Mike and I did, then another guy. Standing outside at 2 a.m., groggy and wondering why you're being questioned is never fun. However, our assertions that we'd stayed with friends, just been in Belgrade (and loved it) as well as our white cards (although one officer kept frowning at Mike's exit date - which was in perfect order) got us over the border, stamped and everything.
We rolled into Sarajevo, the Serbian side, at about 6 a.m. on a foggy, cold morning. Stumbling out of the bus I think that I should have brought a warmer scarf, but we push on to the ticket office. After extracting information about return times and ticket price from a lady trapped behind glass we go looking for an ATM so we can get some Bosnian marks. There is no ATM at the bus station. Nor anywhere in sight. Or an exchange office. I ask a taxi driver where one would be and he seems nonplussed by our plight until I point out forcibly "ali nema para" (but we've got no money). I'll say now that returning to Sarajevo (I was there last May) with at least a strong base in the language really helped at odd moments; I can move around asking directions in a caveman-esque way at obscenely early hours after not much sleep. We asked a trolleybus man setting up his trolley on the cables for further directions and ended up in blocks of apartments with shops underneath. We found a bank with an ATM and were terribly excited... until the glass doors wouldn't open to let us in. FOILED! Luckily there was another bank with a normal bankomat (ie not behind anything) not far away. Then repeat the trek back to bus station, we're practically regulars now in the neighborhood. The same surly lady is still in her little office but then tells us she doesn't sell the tickets, window next to her does. Which is empty. After idling for a minute or two we ask where the person might be - she says to try the kafana. We go in and I ask who the person is who'll sell me tickets. There are two guys at a table, they gesture me to sit, produce a ticket book and write out our return tickets (which we could have bought in euros. Another lesson learned: carry more euros in cash when traveling in this region) over the remains of their coffee. Surreal. Furthered by catching the tram into city center (it's 103, don't let them tell you different) that was full of school kids pressed in tighter than tight, we're already exhausted, and it isn't even 8 a.m. yet!
Turkish coffee, breakfast, getting a place to sleep and a nap made the world a bit brighter. Even if the room was freezing cold (the heat hadn't been turned on yet), there was no hot water in two out of three bathrooms surveyed, and we were up a huge hill. Lesson: pay a few more euros for private accommodation and ask where it is before following the guy to hostel. Walking into town we stopped by the shop of Dino, a coppersmith I'd spent an afternoon chatting with last May. He was still there and kinda remembered me (the new hair threw him), we sat and had a nice few hours catching up, rambling about life over coffee (although he was fasting for Ramadan so just Mike and I had the coffee). I loved how people kept poking their heads in just to say hi, make plans for later, ask for money, try to get a piece custom-made that would be better done by machine than hand. Dino would tell their story afterwards sometimes - the guy who still has shrapnel in his head since they can't operate for fear of causing more damage or death; the old man (who was convinced that Mike and I were Germans) who is a specialist auto mechanic, had gone to France and everything for training, and still was active into his retirement years. The stories of failed marks in Marxism during school (he didn't believe that capitalist countries were going into decline for one), how he came to be a copper artisan; it was just grand. I asked about the pyramids I'd heard about last time, he said he'd been and they were amazing, something to make sure to see and that we should go to Visoko if we could.
The rest of the day was spent strolling around city center, drinking coffee at regular intervals. Mike also found a chocolate cake he's considering trying to make a lasting relationship with (if čevapćići and pleskavica turn him down that is). We found out price for the bus to Visoko (although once again the agent at the bus agency didn't have return times, only departures) and decided to make a trip of it the next day, archeology being one of Mike's passions and something I've become more interested in as well. It was intriguing returning to a place I've been in recent memory - a lot was still the same but some of what really impressioned me the first time wasn't quite as striking the second go round. Although watching the men playing chess on the huge board in the park was still great to see. As Mike pointed out, it gives ample opportunity for strutting. Thankfully I know that my talents do not lie in the direction of chess, otherwise I'd be tempted to try to take it up again.
In typical serialist fashion I'm going to leave you with the cliff hanger of those mysterious pyramids - what are they doing in Bosnia? Did our intrepid heroes make it in time? Will they unlock the secrets of an ancient civilization? And will they return to Serbia unmarked by the experience? Stay tuned...
The first adventure in a long string involved the bus. Julia called the station for us and they said there's one bus a day in either direction - I was skeptical but ok, that's something. We went to the station and discovered there are actually around seven daily. Lesson learned - go to the bus station when looking for information. Even if the lady behind the ticked window can't tell you return times the one behind the information window (conveniently located across the way) can. We ask about price for round trip tickets, leave and figure out that taking two night buses seems the way to go and get cash, then come back to buy the tickets. The first helpful lady, a woman who seemed more content and fluffy than one usually sees in public agents here, was gone so we went to the next window over. There a woman with dramatic dark hair informed us that we couldn't buy round trip tickets and that her colleague "didn't know what she was talking about." Our slightly worried queries about how we're then supposed to get back are met with scorn. New plan: buy tickets on arrival to Sarajevo for trip home.
Night buses have nice parts about them, but this one was a geriatric convention with the heat cranked up WAY too high. On the Serbian border we waited 45 minutes - I thought the conductor was going to tear his hair out. First one man got pulled off the bus, then Mike and I did, then another guy. Standing outside at 2 a.m., groggy and wondering why you're being questioned is never fun. However, our assertions that we'd stayed with friends, just been in Belgrade (and loved it) as well as our white cards (although one officer kept frowning at Mike's exit date - which was in perfect order) got us over the border, stamped and everything.
We rolled into Sarajevo, the Serbian side, at about 6 a.m. on a foggy, cold morning. Stumbling out of the bus I think that I should have brought a warmer scarf, but we push on to the ticket office. After extracting information about return times and ticket price from a lady trapped behind glass we go looking for an ATM so we can get some Bosnian marks. There is no ATM at the bus station. Nor anywhere in sight. Or an exchange office. I ask a taxi driver where one would be and he seems nonplussed by our plight until I point out forcibly "ali nema para" (but we've got no money). I'll say now that returning to Sarajevo (I was there last May) with at least a strong base in the language really helped at odd moments; I can move around asking directions in a caveman-esque way at obscenely early hours after not much sleep. We asked a trolleybus man setting up his trolley on the cables for further directions and ended up in blocks of apartments with shops underneath. We found a bank with an ATM and were terribly excited... until the glass doors wouldn't open to let us in. FOILED! Luckily there was another bank with a normal bankomat (ie not behind anything) not far away. Then repeat the trek back to bus station, we're practically regulars now in the neighborhood. The same surly lady is still in her little office but then tells us she doesn't sell the tickets, window next to her does. Which is empty. After idling for a minute or two we ask where the person might be - she says to try the kafana. We go in and I ask who the person is who'll sell me tickets. There are two guys at a table, they gesture me to sit, produce a ticket book and write out our return tickets (which we could have bought in euros. Another lesson learned: carry more euros in cash when traveling in this region) over the remains of their coffee. Surreal. Furthered by catching the tram into city center (it's 103, don't let them tell you different) that was full of school kids pressed in tighter than tight, we're already exhausted, and it isn't even 8 a.m. yet!
Turkish coffee, breakfast, getting a place to sleep and a nap made the world a bit brighter. Even if the room was freezing cold (the heat hadn't been turned on yet), there was no hot water in two out of three bathrooms surveyed, and we were up a huge hill. Lesson: pay a few more euros for private accommodation and ask where it is before following the guy to hostel. Walking into town we stopped by the shop of Dino, a coppersmith I'd spent an afternoon chatting with last May. He was still there and kinda remembered me (the new hair threw him), we sat and had a nice few hours catching up, rambling about life over coffee (although he was fasting for Ramadan so just Mike and I had the coffee). I loved how people kept poking their heads in just to say hi, make plans for later, ask for money, try to get a piece custom-made that would be better done by machine than hand. Dino would tell their story afterwards sometimes - the guy who still has shrapnel in his head since they can't operate for fear of causing more damage or death; the old man (who was convinced that Mike and I were Germans) who is a specialist auto mechanic, had gone to France and everything for training, and still was active into his retirement years. The stories of failed marks in Marxism during school (he didn't believe that capitalist countries were going into decline for one), how he came to be a copper artisan; it was just grand. I asked about the pyramids I'd heard about last time, he said he'd been and they were amazing, something to make sure to see and that we should go to Visoko if we could.
The rest of the day was spent strolling around city center, drinking coffee at regular intervals. Mike also found a chocolate cake he's considering trying to make a lasting relationship with (if čevapćići and pleskavica turn him down that is). We found out price for the bus to Visoko (although once again the agent at the bus agency didn't have return times, only departures) and decided to make a trip of it the next day, archeology being one of Mike's passions and something I've become more interested in as well. It was intriguing returning to a place I've been in recent memory - a lot was still the same but some of what really impressioned me the first time wasn't quite as striking the second go round. Although watching the men playing chess on the huge board in the park was still great to see. As Mike pointed out, it gives ample opportunity for strutting. Thankfully I know that my talents do not lie in the direction of chess, otherwise I'd be tempted to try to take it up again.
In typical serialist fashion I'm going to leave you with the cliff hanger of those mysterious pyramids - what are they doing in Bosnia? Did our intrepid heroes make it in time? Will they unlock the secrets of an ancient civilization? And will they return to Serbia unmarked by the experience? Stay tuned...
Sunday, September 30, 2007
Politics?
I'm apparently becoming more interested with politics both in my native and adopted country; this opinion piece was something I found worth sharing as we move towards the presidential elections. I think he makes some really excellent points about post 9/11 America.
On the domestic front (i.e. my apartment), things continue to move apace. Mike's here to visit and that's wonderful. Classes have been poky to start up (apparently one school just lost 5 groups of adults I was posited to work with) and that's not so wonderful. But if I can be insecure financially in a country where I'm still learning the language and way things work, heck, I can do it anywhere. At least that's what I tell myself. Daily.
I'll try and post up some further adventures soon (or at least some musings) - thinking about home a lot, hoping that I can get life scheduled enough soon to actually buy tickets for a stateside return come December. Now off to enjoy my company some more.
On the domestic front (i.e. my apartment), things continue to move apace. Mike's here to visit and that's wonderful. Classes have been poky to start up (apparently one school just lost 5 groups of adults I was posited to work with) and that's not so wonderful. But if I can be insecure financially in a country where I'm still learning the language and way things work, heck, I can do it anywhere. At least that's what I tell myself. Daily.
I'll try and post up some further adventures soon (or at least some musings) - thinking about home a lot, hoping that I can get life scheduled enough soon to actually buy tickets for a stateside return come December. Now off to enjoy my company some more.
Thursday, September 13, 2007
Jet planes and police
Sitting outside on my roof and jet planes start screaming across the sky. What's going on? There are also helicopters, it's like being under an air highway. Girl in building across the street is standing on her little balcony snapping photos with her phone, the little old lady next door to her stayed out watching a bit and now has gone in with her laundry. The mysteries of Beograd are myriad.
Last week I hosted a mini-British invasion; Simon from my CELTA course, Jaimie (who we met in Ljubljana), and Luke made their way down from Ljubljana for a few days. It was fun, albeit suddenly cold and rainy. I picked them up at the train station at 6:30 a.m. and got us back to my place in the wet, stopping to pick up burek on the way (and practice my Serbian more on the lady who works at the bakery near my place). We had breakfast and then they napped in my living room - when I talked to Jelica later and said I had a living room full of British men she thought I was joking. But no. Jaimie and Luke got a hostel, Simon and I went to register him with the police with Julia and Kata. I was proud - for the first time getting a foreigner to register within 24 hours!
We trekked to the station, blithe and unconcerned (although cold). On arrival they told us that we needed the form. What? The white card - apparently they were out so no help there. This incident allowed me to learn that you can buy pretty much any official form in a bookstore (the kind that are more office supplies and paper than books). But there's a catch - you have to find a store that actually has them. Nothing near the station did, so we decided to go warm up over a coffee in a cool little café we'd passed, underground and decent atmosphere. Simon and I went exploring a bit after I paid my rent (a shady feeling affair meeting on the street and handing over euros in cash), found the foreigner forms after looking in a few more places in center (4 dinars each - such a bargain), then met up with the other happy voyagers (who'd brought their friend John along) and got some food.
The plan then was to meet Julia and do police station, round two, then find the boys and have a drink all together. We three got in, gave the officers all the documents (they wondered why we'd brought a blank white card since they had copies themselves), and then waited on the bench that I've gotten to know quite well. After a few minutes they called Julia in, Simon and I wondered if they were asking what she'd had for breakfast or something. There was some yelling and then she reappeared, laughing. "We can't do it." "Ha ha, you're joking." "No, no. We can't." Apparently Belgrade's finest had declared that since Julia only owns a third of her apartment they would also need her sister and her mother (since Ivan is a minor) to come down for Simon's registration. They were unswayed by her saying we'd done this before, that he was only staying three days. She called Jelica - who was across town - and we sat, stupefied by the situation. An officer appeared, so tall he seemed to brush the ceiling and without many of his teeth in front, asked what was wrong. "Ne razumen nista," I said (I don't understand anything) to which he responded and then explained in English that when you don't understand anything, that's when life is the most beautiful.
Right. Maybe for the night shift in the foreigner's section.
(I was proud of myself - the word "glup" (stupid) never crossed my lips while anywhere in or near the station. I must be maturing or something.)
Simon never registered and successfully recrossed the border, so that's something. It was fantastic to catch up with him, enjoyed a mix of hanging out and walking about. Went to Zemun for fantastic palačinke (crepes) thick with nutella and other goodness, went out to a bunch of different places in the evening looking for diversion and tried to explain that the cold snap mixed with rain made for not lots of people out and about. It was sad to see them go early Saturday morning, although walking to the train station and back with the sun rising is a beautiful thing. Even went to the market and got some things while it was still being set up - 7 a.m. is not an hour I usually see, so made the most of it. It's wonderful to have a place of my own where I can welcome folks.
Oh, and I found out - the jets were trainees practicing for this weekend's military graduation ceremony. Another mystery solved. Although I still need to find out what was going on with the taxis on Tuesday - they were driving in a herd honking near the city parliament. Pretty sure it was a protest/strike, but not sure as to details.
Last week I hosted a mini-British invasion; Simon from my CELTA course, Jaimie (who we met in Ljubljana), and Luke made their way down from Ljubljana for a few days. It was fun, albeit suddenly cold and rainy. I picked them up at the train station at 6:30 a.m. and got us back to my place in the wet, stopping to pick up burek on the way (and practice my Serbian more on the lady who works at the bakery near my place). We had breakfast and then they napped in my living room - when I talked to Jelica later and said I had a living room full of British men she thought I was joking. But no. Jaimie and Luke got a hostel, Simon and I went to register him with the police with Julia and Kata. I was proud - for the first time getting a foreigner to register within 24 hours!
We trekked to the station, blithe and unconcerned (although cold). On arrival they told us that we needed the form. What? The white card - apparently they were out so no help there. This incident allowed me to learn that you can buy pretty much any official form in a bookstore (the kind that are more office supplies and paper than books). But there's a catch - you have to find a store that actually has them. Nothing near the station did, so we decided to go warm up over a coffee in a cool little café we'd passed, underground and decent atmosphere. Simon and I went exploring a bit after I paid my rent (a shady feeling affair meeting on the street and handing over euros in cash), found the foreigner forms after looking in a few more places in center (4 dinars each - such a bargain), then met up with the other happy voyagers (who'd brought their friend John along) and got some food.
The plan then was to meet Julia and do police station, round two, then find the boys and have a drink all together. We three got in, gave the officers all the documents (they wondered why we'd brought a blank white card since they had copies themselves), and then waited on the bench that I've gotten to know quite well. After a few minutes they called Julia in, Simon and I wondered if they were asking what she'd had for breakfast or something. There was some yelling and then she reappeared, laughing. "We can't do it." "Ha ha, you're joking." "No, no. We can't." Apparently Belgrade's finest had declared that since Julia only owns a third of her apartment they would also need her sister and her mother (since Ivan is a minor) to come down for Simon's registration. They were unswayed by her saying we'd done this before, that he was only staying three days. She called Jelica - who was across town - and we sat, stupefied by the situation. An officer appeared, so tall he seemed to brush the ceiling and without many of his teeth in front, asked what was wrong. "Ne razumen nista," I said (I don't understand anything) to which he responded and then explained in English that when you don't understand anything, that's when life is the most beautiful.
Right. Maybe for the night shift in the foreigner's section.
(I was proud of myself - the word "glup" (stupid) never crossed my lips while anywhere in or near the station. I must be maturing or something.)
Simon never registered and successfully recrossed the border, so that's something. It was fantastic to catch up with him, enjoyed a mix of hanging out and walking about. Went to Zemun for fantastic palačinke (crepes) thick with nutella and other goodness, went out to a bunch of different places in the evening looking for diversion and tried to explain that the cold snap mixed with rain made for not lots of people out and about. It was sad to see them go early Saturday morning, although walking to the train station and back with the sun rising is a beautiful thing. Even went to the market and got some things while it was still being set up - 7 a.m. is not an hour I usually see, so made the most of it. It's wonderful to have a place of my own where I can welcome folks.
Oh, and I found out - the jets were trainees practicing for this weekend's military graduation ceremony. Another mystery solved. Although I still need to find out what was going on with the taxis on Tuesday - they were driving in a herd honking near the city parliament. Pretty sure it was a protest/strike, but not sure as to details.
Tuesday, August 28, 2007
Some small moments for sharing
Yesterday I was walking downtown and discovered that back-to-school is here in full force. Why is that? Because all along Kosvoska street (behind the parliament building incidentally) there are used textbook sellers. They stand by cars stuffed with the slim volumes covering all realms of learning and call "knige, knige" (books, books) at passersby. One car had the backseat folded down (or taken out, couldn't really tell) and books filling the entire body, trunk, and passenger seat. Just totally packed in.
I went to the market the other morning and ended up with three kinds of cheese. A little grandmother type had me try hers and then, in that time-honored tradition, instead of walking away with 200 grams I left with over a half kilo since she "couldn't" make it even. I look at it as Serbian practice, so first time is ok. But don't have the funds for that kinda thing to repeat too much. Cheese is good but think I'm going to have to make pita (pie) or something with it before it sours too much.
Saturday I ended up having coffee at Elma's (a colleague who's one of the most positive people I've met here) in the afternoon. We had a lovely chat and then her roommate came home, it was his birthday. They asked if I wanted just one beer- alright. And I ended up staying through the impromptu party that followed, going later with everyone to this kafana covered in Communist memorabilia. There were no free tables but two guys let us sit with them, one had played football in Orlando and Michigan tried to draft him but he came home because of his mother's health. Eventually we got our own place and I left a little after, not up for the after-party and supposed to meet other friends. But I love how people just welcome me into their lives - and most of the evening was spent in Serbian, I'm getting more comfortable speaking although still get hung up on little words. Still, I can't make this stuff up. It was a great reminder of why I like my life here and how important it is to be flexible.
Last note - paid my last August bill yesterday, electricity. Apparently it's different from the rest though since you're supposed to write down how much you're paying yourself. The lady behind the counter kept asking how much I was paying. "Sve," (all) I said - I was a bit confused. Then had the brainwave to say "Ovo je moj privi put" (This is my first time) and her face cleared, she filled it out for me and all was fine. So now to decipher the Cyrillic handwriting so I know what to write next time.
There's always something new to learn.
I went to the market the other morning and ended up with three kinds of cheese. A little grandmother type had me try hers and then, in that time-honored tradition, instead of walking away with 200 grams I left with over a half kilo since she "couldn't" make it even. I look at it as Serbian practice, so first time is ok. But don't have the funds for that kinda thing to repeat too much. Cheese is good but think I'm going to have to make pita (pie) or something with it before it sours too much.
Saturday I ended up having coffee at Elma's (a colleague who's one of the most positive people I've met here) in the afternoon. We had a lovely chat and then her roommate came home, it was his birthday. They asked if I wanted just one beer- alright. And I ended up staying through the impromptu party that followed, going later with everyone to this kafana covered in Communist memorabilia. There were no free tables but two guys let us sit with them, one had played football in Orlando and Michigan tried to draft him but he came home because of his mother's health. Eventually we got our own place and I left a little after, not up for the after-party and supposed to meet other friends. But I love how people just welcome me into their lives - and most of the evening was spent in Serbian, I'm getting more comfortable speaking although still get hung up on little words. Still, I can't make this stuff up. It was a great reminder of why I like my life here and how important it is to be flexible.
Last note - paid my last August bill yesterday, electricity. Apparently it's different from the rest though since you're supposed to write down how much you're paying yourself. The lady behind the counter kept asking how much I was paying. "Sve," (all) I said - I was a bit confused. Then had the brainwave to say "Ovo je moj privi put" (This is my first time) and her face cleared, she filled it out for me and all was fine. So now to decipher the Cyrillic handwriting so I know what to write next time.
There's always something new to learn.
Friday, August 24, 2007
Climb every mountain...
So finally I've got photos of Kop posted. Enjoy them! I could use some of the cool right now, that's for sure. No word yet as to my fall schedule so I'm being patient and spending my days reading, writing, studying Serbian and English grammar. Trying to be on vacation is hard at times. And I mean that seriously. Although I'm getting used to it...
Thursday, August 23, 2007
Dinos are cool
I love this webcomic. This one made me laugh since it reminds me of most nights on Kopaonik (click on it to see the whole thing). And I'll post up pictures soon, I promise.
Sunday, August 19, 2007
Kopaonik
After getting moved into my apartment, I headed for the hills (literally) for a job as an English teacher at an English summer camp for kids 8-16 on Kopaonik mountain in southern Serbia (I'll pause here to ask what preposition goes with mountains in English since this isn't something I've done much of in English. Is it I was AT Kopaonik? or ON Kop? I'm banking not IN Kop - that sounds too odd.) It was 2 weeks room & board with pay at the end - I was suspicious about the amount of work the woman said I'd be doing, but, hey, it's an adventure.
The first one was getting a taxi to Sava center to catch the bus- a friend said I could text for one, and I did, but when I got down there there was nothing at all. So waited a little bit but running late - headed to Bulevar and hailed one (which is hard to do at 7 a.m. on a Saturday), banking that I know enough Serbian to tell the guy if he tried to rip me off. I'd been told it was vital for me to be on time, and yet when I got there not even everyone was there yet - it was a sign for how the next weeks would go. Very chill more than not.
I'll not go into the nitty-gritty of daily life except to say that I had 2 classes a day, one in morning and one in late afternoon, then evening activity and meals that I had to be present for. My colleagues were are nice folks, a couple had worked the camp before so knew the ropes. There 2 guys for sports and 2 other ladies teaching English. Most of daily life happened in Serbian (even though the camp was advertised as English immersion) which was good for my listening comprehension at meals and things, although I'd stop and make sure I was getting everything when it seemed necessary. At one point it dawned on some of them that listening and understanding takes a lot of energy which is why I didn't say much often (a new role, yes). The kids were a good group over all, they were from all over Serbia and Montenegro along with some ex-pats back for the summer. I had the most advanced group in English and we had a decent time although I didn't think much of the textbook I was given and it seemed like a lot of review for them, oh well. I worked with what I was given and didn't have to be too mean usually. Although I did scare them when I went off after someone whined "It's not fair" about how I didn't want to hear those words in my classroom again. Grammar exercises were probably my most reoccurring threat and when they were good I'd tell them stories (like "okie-dokie bye for now" one that's a Qualls favorite- they liked it).
But enough pseudo-fussing; Kopaonik is a gorgeous place. It's the place to ski in the winter and is basically a resort village/town at the base of the ski lifts. I forgot to mention but our campers were in mini-apartments with 3 beds, kitchen stuff, bathrooms, whole shebang- not a cabin or tent in sight. A bit different than Bradford woods. In the summer there's tons of hiking to be had, whenever the weather was good I'd go on a solo tramp somewhere (we also took the kids on a ramble the second day that was pretty great). Made it to the top of some of the lifts, the best day was when I went to the highest point twice in one day (over 2000 m up). Lots of woods as well, often I'd go read or write somewhere before heading back down into 'civilization' to teach. There are wild blueberries and raspberries everywhere; I ate a lot of them on my rambles. There's nothing better than a slightly sun-warmed sweet red raspberry, I tell you what. And yes, I hummed "The hills are alive" every so often. It was an irresistible urge.
Speaking of food, apparently I was WAY allergic to something I ate because in the first week I broke out in a HUGE rash all over my body. I was one big red itch, very unfun. We had an on-call doctor who was a lovely woman, she checked me out and gave me some meds. And when that didn't work - the next evening I was even worse - I got a shot of something much more hardcore. I discovered during this ordeal a new level of Hell that Dante forgot - you wake up at 2:30 a.m., your body one bit burning itch you can't scratch because it will do no good (and since you're not sure why it's spreading you don't want to risk it moving around more by touching). You can't get comfortable enough to try and fall asleep, so you toss and turn looking for a position that offers at least a modicum of ease. And to top it all off there's LOUD turbofolk blasting from the café below, filtering in to make your bed of pain that much worse. (I was ecstatic when the shot made everything go away after a day or so).
The second weekend was rainy and cold, although we did get a short hike in to a geyser en masse. It felt like November - I can't ever remember needing to wear multi-layers under a sweatshirt on the first day of August before. Went swimming a few times, enjoyed the sauna a bit as well. Read a whole lot - Bill Bryson's Mother Tongue is excellent by the way. I think my colleagues didn't know quite what to make of me - often they went to while away the morning drinking coffee. But there were mountains calling my name.
It was nice being in nature and I did like the kids - they were creative in funny ways. We had a costume ball and a group dressed up as the Taliban, did a sketch involving GW that, while somewhat tasteless, was done in English and pretty well done for all that. I saved the day with blockbusters - thanks Nick! - a few evenings; we also had skits for the last night which were hilarious. The middle group went shopping and then had a negative brush with Madonna, mine did a Pizza Hut commercial involving the Terminator and a silly news broadcast about people water-skiing because of the rain, a massive outcry due to a pizza shortage. Entertaining. After one class I was swarmed by kids wanting me to come and teach in their primary schools since I was "cool" and "interesting." Flattering to say the least but I'm hesitant about high school kids and discipline there - listening to my colleagues at schools here doesn't make me want to get into the little ones in a mass kinda way. They wrote some heart-wrenching essays as well- most life changing experiences, people they admire. I was impressed.
Alright, that's enough babble. I was ready to come home by the end, really and truly. I've not gotten paid as promised and that makes me mad (but isn't that big of a surprise). But being back in Beograd is great and I'm hoping I can go back to Kop in the winter to ski with some friends because that would be totally rad.
The first one was getting a taxi to Sava center to catch the bus- a friend said I could text for one, and I did, but when I got down there there was nothing at all. So waited a little bit but running late - headed to Bulevar and hailed one (which is hard to do at 7 a.m. on a Saturday), banking that I know enough Serbian to tell the guy if he tried to rip me off. I'd been told it was vital for me to be on time, and yet when I got there not even everyone was there yet - it was a sign for how the next weeks would go. Very chill more than not.
I'll not go into the nitty-gritty of daily life except to say that I had 2 classes a day, one in morning and one in late afternoon, then evening activity and meals that I had to be present for. My colleagues were are nice folks, a couple had worked the camp before so knew the ropes. There 2 guys for sports and 2 other ladies teaching English. Most of daily life happened in Serbian (even though the camp was advertised as English immersion) which was good for my listening comprehension at meals and things, although I'd stop and make sure I was getting everything when it seemed necessary. At one point it dawned on some of them that listening and understanding takes a lot of energy which is why I didn't say much often (a new role, yes). The kids were a good group over all, they were from all over Serbia and Montenegro along with some ex-pats back for the summer. I had the most advanced group in English and we had a decent time although I didn't think much of the textbook I was given and it seemed like a lot of review for them, oh well. I worked with what I was given and didn't have to be too mean usually. Although I did scare them when I went off after someone whined "It's not fair" about how I didn't want to hear those words in my classroom again. Grammar exercises were probably my most reoccurring threat and when they were good I'd tell them stories (like "okie-dokie bye for now" one that's a Qualls favorite- they liked it).
But enough pseudo-fussing; Kopaonik is a gorgeous place. It's the place to ski in the winter and is basically a resort village/town at the base of the ski lifts. I forgot to mention but our campers were in mini-apartments with 3 beds, kitchen stuff, bathrooms, whole shebang- not a cabin or tent in sight. A bit different than Bradford woods. In the summer there's tons of hiking to be had, whenever the weather was good I'd go on a solo tramp somewhere (we also took the kids on a ramble the second day that was pretty great). Made it to the top of some of the lifts, the best day was when I went to the highest point twice in one day (over 2000 m up). Lots of woods as well, often I'd go read or write somewhere before heading back down into 'civilization' to teach. There are wild blueberries and raspberries everywhere; I ate a lot of them on my rambles. There's nothing better than a slightly sun-warmed sweet red raspberry, I tell you what. And yes, I hummed "The hills are alive" every so often. It was an irresistible urge.
Speaking of food, apparently I was WAY allergic to something I ate because in the first week I broke out in a HUGE rash all over my body. I was one big red itch, very unfun. We had an on-call doctor who was a lovely woman, she checked me out and gave me some meds. And when that didn't work - the next evening I was even worse - I got a shot of something much more hardcore. I discovered during this ordeal a new level of Hell that Dante forgot - you wake up at 2:30 a.m., your body one bit burning itch you can't scratch because it will do no good (and since you're not sure why it's spreading you don't want to risk it moving around more by touching). You can't get comfortable enough to try and fall asleep, so you toss and turn looking for a position that offers at least a modicum of ease. And to top it all off there's LOUD turbofolk blasting from the café below, filtering in to make your bed of pain that much worse. (I was ecstatic when the shot made everything go away after a day or so).
The second weekend was rainy and cold, although we did get a short hike in to a geyser en masse. It felt like November - I can't ever remember needing to wear multi-layers under a sweatshirt on the first day of August before. Went swimming a few times, enjoyed the sauna a bit as well. Read a whole lot - Bill Bryson's Mother Tongue is excellent by the way. I think my colleagues didn't know quite what to make of me - often they went to while away the morning drinking coffee. But there were mountains calling my name.
It was nice being in nature and I did like the kids - they were creative in funny ways. We had a costume ball and a group dressed up as the Taliban, did a sketch involving GW that, while somewhat tasteless, was done in English and pretty well done for all that. I saved the day with blockbusters - thanks Nick! - a few evenings; we also had skits for the last night which were hilarious. The middle group went shopping and then had a negative brush with Madonna, mine did a Pizza Hut commercial involving the Terminator and a silly news broadcast about people water-skiing because of the rain, a massive outcry due to a pizza shortage. Entertaining. After one class I was swarmed by kids wanting me to come and teach in their primary schools since I was "cool" and "interesting." Flattering to say the least but I'm hesitant about high school kids and discipline there - listening to my colleagues at schools here doesn't make me want to get into the little ones in a mass kinda way. They wrote some heart-wrenching essays as well- most life changing experiences, people they admire. I was impressed.
Alright, that's enough babble. I was ready to come home by the end, really and truly. I've not gotten paid as promised and that makes me mad (but isn't that big of a surprise). But being back in Beograd is great and I'm hoping I can go back to Kop in the winter to ski with some friends because that would be totally rad.
Friday, August 17, 2007
first party!
Currently in that awkward time where I'm having a party that offically starts in 10 minutes but I know no one will be here for about a half hour at least, so what to do? I was brave and went to tell all my neighbors that I live here, having a party na srpskom. Went ok. My across the hall neighbors are super nice family, the two girls are 16/17ish and super sweet, helped me with what I needed to say and everything. They're coming to this motley bash that I'm having, it should be cool. And not noisy (as I assured couple two floors down).
Kopoanik was a beautiful place and I'll write up my English/Serbian adventures there sooner than later (rashes, kids, hiking are some of the upcoming highlights) as well as photos. Just settling back into home life and getting all the pesky logistics lined up with apartment and work for the fall. But it's coming together. Thinking of home and all back there, looks like I'll get back in December sometime so that's something to look towards.... but now it's party time!
Kopoanik was a beautiful place and I'll write up my English/Serbian adventures there sooner than later (rashes, kids, hiking are some of the upcoming highlights) as well as photos. Just settling back into home life and getting all the pesky logistics lined up with apartment and work for the fall. But it's coming together. Thinking of home and all back there, looks like I'll get back in December sometime so that's something to look towards.... but now it's party time!
Tuesday, July 24, 2007
Novi Stan!
(Means "new apartment" in Serbian)
Zdravo again. Made it back to Belgrade and have slowly catapulted back into "real life" (notice two posts in one day!). Objective number one was to find an apartment, so Julia and I signed up with an agency that looks for you and then you pay them afterwards (there are tons that demand money upfront but not trusting that so much). Dusan was my fellow apartment looker/translator as we tramped around most of last Wednesday afternoon and evening with Marija, our agent. Saw tons of stuff and then was struck by one in Vracar. So looked at it again next day (in the daylight) and decided it was what I wanted. I've never rented an apartment before, so this whole process (in a language I still struggle to speak) has been very challenging but positive on the whole. Friday morning came to sign the contract, the owner was late and going to be later when we called, so went to cafe nearby with Marija and Dusan, he joined us. There's something very civilized about reading contracts and discussing terms over espresso. Terribly Belgrade as well. We then all went to the place, did final check through, I handed over ridiculous sums of money and then we had coffee on the roof terrace (and now I've learned how to make Greek/Turkish/Serbian coffee from my landlady). Just fabulous.
Here are some photos of pre-moved into apartment, but it's basically a living/bedroom with a little terrace, entryway with bathroom, then kitchen (with study corner and excellent comfy chair that I'm typing this on). The kicker (besides the natural light) was the roof access - whole roof deck that I share with across the hall neighbors (who I still need to meet), just fantastic. Also the fact the kitchen and bathroom are black, red, and white - what I wanted to do my first kitchen in (so my scale matches!). The neighborhood is residential, pretty quiet but right next to one of the major thoroughfares. I'm about a half hour walk from center where I've been working (was 20 minutes before), and close to both Julia and Dusan. Just great. Already had folks over on the weekend for iced sun tea and then watching "Aladdin" on the roof outside in the dark (power had gone out on the block so better out there).
Of course, the other big event of this weekend was the release of Harry Potter - I picked up my copy at 1 a.m. Glad I'd pre-ordered it since the line was so long. Met another American there, she's also teaching here - maybe we'll get together sometime. It was hard though needing to pack and move-in whilst Harry was calling my name. So adjusted to new digs mostly by reading, unpacking is taking its sweet sweet time (although now that I'm done with the book have no real excuse left). People have left for the sea, I'm going to Kopaonik mountain on the weekend for a 2 week English camp for kids - must be summer in Beograd.
I'll post moved in photos after I get good paintings up and all that, so be on the lookout. Also will send out my new address after we've made everything official with the police.
Zdravo again. Made it back to Belgrade and have slowly catapulted back into "real life" (notice two posts in one day!). Objective number one was to find an apartment, so Julia and I signed up with an agency that looks for you and then you pay them afterwards (there are tons that demand money upfront but not trusting that so much). Dusan was my fellow apartment looker/translator as we tramped around most of last Wednesday afternoon and evening with Marija, our agent. Saw tons of stuff and then was struck by one in Vracar. So looked at it again next day (in the daylight) and decided it was what I wanted. I've never rented an apartment before, so this whole process (in a language I still struggle to speak) has been very challenging but positive on the whole. Friday morning came to sign the contract, the owner was late and going to be later when we called, so went to cafe nearby with Marija and Dusan, he joined us. There's something very civilized about reading contracts and discussing terms over espresso. Terribly Belgrade as well. We then all went to the place, did final check through, I handed over ridiculous sums of money and then we had coffee on the roof terrace (and now I've learned how to make Greek/Turkish/Serbian coffee from my landlady). Just fabulous.
Here are some photos of pre-moved into apartment, but it's basically a living/bedroom with a little terrace, entryway with bathroom, then kitchen (with study corner and excellent comfy chair that I'm typing this on). The kicker (besides the natural light) was the roof access - whole roof deck that I share with across the hall neighbors (who I still need to meet), just fantastic. Also the fact the kitchen and bathroom are black, red, and white - what I wanted to do my first kitchen in (so my scale matches!). The neighborhood is residential, pretty quiet but right next to one of the major thoroughfares. I'm about a half hour walk from center where I've been working (was 20 minutes before), and close to both Julia and Dusan. Just great. Already had folks over on the weekend for iced sun tea and then watching "Aladdin" on the roof outside in the dark (power had gone out on the block so better out there).
Of course, the other big event of this weekend was the release of Harry Potter - I picked up my copy at 1 a.m. Glad I'd pre-ordered it since the line was so long. Met another American there, she's also teaching here - maybe we'll get together sometime. It was hard though needing to pack and move-in whilst Harry was calling my name. So adjusted to new digs mostly by reading, unpacking is taking its sweet sweet time (although now that I'm done with the book have no real excuse left). People have left for the sea, I'm going to Kopaonik mountain on the weekend for a 2 week English camp for kids - must be summer in Beograd.
I'll post moved in photos after I get good paintings up and all that, so be on the lookout. Also will send out my new address after we've made everything official with the police.
Greece- the wrap-up
The past month and a half have gone by so very fast; I can't believe I'm back in Beograd again. I left for Athens early June and stayed with some friends for a few days enjoying not teaching and looking at amazing old dead rocks (yes, it's irreverent, but you must admit it's accurate). The Acropolis was incredible, looking out over a city is always one of my favorite things, but the detail and just feeling the weight of history was amazing. The Parthenon was a thing of grace and beauty despite its trappings of scaffolding as they work to restore it. The Archeological museum had so much in it but I missed having someone who knew the stories with me to make it that much more real. Linear B is pretty darn rad though (early writing) as were some of the sculptures. Again, the sheer age was astounding (and I've learned a bit more since then, so that's great). Otherwise really enjoyed just hanging out at Mike & Traci's place in Filothei (lovely folks Rebecca got me in contact with).
I headed to Korinthos after a few days to join the dig. Korinthos (Corinth) has many parts: there's Acro, the old fortress up on a mountain/big hill (500+ meters) that overlooks Archaia (Ancient) Korinthos, which is the archeological site as well as a small village where we were based. There was an earthquake (mid 19th C?) and so the main town, Neo Korinthos, is a few kilometers away on the coast proper. It's a good sized town, had banks, shops, lots of cafes and internet access (huzzah). When I got to Rooms Marinos Susan and Andrew were there, it was like having home come to me. Andrew's a lot bigger than last I saw him two years ago (being 5 will do that), that's for sure.
I won't go into painstaking detail about the next few weeks but basically the days started at 6 a.m. breakfast and then everyone caught the bus to Kenchreai to go work (leaving me and a sleepy Andrew to plot our next move). Andrew and I would go on different adventures as we fancied until 2 or 3 when Susan would come back, the rest of the crew (we were around 50-60 at the height) at 3:30. Then hanging out, staying out of the heat until our 8:30 dinner. Naps became quite necessary for basically everyone. Andrew and I often went to the beach with John, Helen and Thomas (the two other kids on site and their dad) although they left after 2 weeks. We also explored our environs, making trips to Neo Korinthos via bus to play on the "big" playground, run errands and then go sit in a cafe and color while I drank frappe. Now Andrew knows how to pick a café - look at the seating and pick most comfy looking ones. It was a pleasant challenge keeping things interesting for a dynamic 5 year old. He was adopted by all the staff as well, making afternoons fun as we played with the "big kids."
On the weekends the education program had trips around to different sites. The first Saturday we hiked Acrokorinth - Andrew and I made it to the top on our own!
Again, I don't want to become a total travelogue, but there are tons of things to see in the area. Unfortunately often we were pressed for time as herding around a group of over 30 students took more time than planned. Paracora was gorgeous - it's a sanctuary for travelers where they'd stop on their way out to sea. Also Mycenae with its massiveness (the lion gate is there) and an excellent little museum. Andrew and Susan came on that trip so going through the site was highlighted by Andrew having been "kidnapped by the Sea People" and thus hiding behind me being invisible to one and all. Luckily our guess that he'd been taken to the cistern was correct (bad guys tending to go to dark places) and he was restored to us. Huzzah.
We had a long weekend off starting with the educational program taking us to Athens. I ended up hanging out with Mike, crashing with Mel (a friend of his) who's working at the Agora. His roommates had organized a party, but then some people came and said it'd been canceled. Turned out to be the best canceled party ever with lots of folks from the Agora dig showing up and hanging out. I enjoyed pretending to be an archeologist for a bit (although I'd come clean about my full part on the team after awhile). Bizarre dynamics though - our Kenchreai crew had much better bonding, basically no catty drama or anything of that sort. The next morning Mike and I headed to Hydra, a totally pedestrian island that we explored most of upon arrival as we looked for a place to sleep (a fun game). By the end we'd been directed by an old woman (Mike speaks Greek) to basically the highest house (which had rooms) where the man said he had nothing but would call his travel agency and see if they could help. After a short rest (this is all between 12-14h by the way and HOT) we headed back down to port. There was no room at the agency but a hotel, one of the first we'd passed, had things free. So always check the first stuff you pass. Later we explored the labyrinth to go up to a monastery/church overlooking the town below. Ate a little picnic, watched the sun slowly set- completely lovely. Almost as much as not having to get out of bed at 6 the next morning. I really do enjoy islands - we explored more the next day, ate excellent seafood and then caught a fast boat to Athens to take train to Korinthos; it was hard to go back to "the daily grind" even if had only been a few days out.
I fell in love with Nafpilo, a coastal town that was briefly the capital of Greece during the early days of the Greek state. It had the best gelatto ever (Italian run place), great walks, little beach (not the best but still easy to access). I ended up staying basically two weekends there - it was part of the excursion one weekend and I and some others just stayed, finding a pension. That weekend everything took 3 hours - frappe, dinner, ouzo on the sweet little balcony of our room. Really enjoyed relaxing with Katie and Mike. When I left the dig (Susan was flying back) I just went back because I liked it so much. Went swimming, ate more gelatto and seafood, tramped around more with Mike- a great way to end time in Greece.
In short a wonderful experience and one I was sad to have end. It was a great group of people not in the least because of their unfettered dork-ness and love of jokes (alright, so not everyone liked them. But still). I mean, any group that supports my throwing basically 3 birthday parties is one worth being around isn't it? As promised, there are photos as well. I'd go on and on, but feel I'm stretching word count. Next installment: new apartment!
I headed to Korinthos after a few days to join the dig. Korinthos (Corinth) has many parts: there's Acro, the old fortress up on a mountain/big hill (500+ meters) that overlooks Archaia (Ancient) Korinthos, which is the archeological site as well as a small village where we were based. There was an earthquake (mid 19th C?) and so the main town, Neo Korinthos, is a few kilometers away on the coast proper. It's a good sized town, had banks, shops, lots of cafes and internet access (huzzah). When I got to Rooms Marinos Susan and Andrew were there, it was like having home come to me. Andrew's a lot bigger than last I saw him two years ago (being 5 will do that), that's for sure.
I won't go into painstaking detail about the next few weeks but basically the days started at 6 a.m. breakfast and then everyone caught the bus to Kenchreai to go work (leaving me and a sleepy Andrew to plot our next move). Andrew and I would go on different adventures as we fancied until 2 or 3 when Susan would come back, the rest of the crew (we were around 50-60 at the height) at 3:30. Then hanging out, staying out of the heat until our 8:30 dinner. Naps became quite necessary for basically everyone. Andrew and I often went to the beach with John, Helen and Thomas (the two other kids on site and their dad) although they left after 2 weeks. We also explored our environs, making trips to Neo Korinthos via bus to play on the "big" playground, run errands and then go sit in a cafe and color while I drank frappe. Now Andrew knows how to pick a café - look at the seating and pick most comfy looking ones. It was a pleasant challenge keeping things interesting for a dynamic 5 year old. He was adopted by all the staff as well, making afternoons fun as we played with the "big kids."
On the weekends the education program had trips around to different sites. The first Saturday we hiked Acrokorinth - Andrew and I made it to the top on our own!
Again, I don't want to become a total travelogue, but there are tons of things to see in the area. Unfortunately often we were pressed for time as herding around a group of over 30 students took more time than planned. Paracora was gorgeous - it's a sanctuary for travelers where they'd stop on their way out to sea. Also Mycenae with its massiveness (the lion gate is there) and an excellent little museum. Andrew and Susan came on that trip so going through the site was highlighted by Andrew having been "kidnapped by the Sea People" and thus hiding behind me being invisible to one and all. Luckily our guess that he'd been taken to the cistern was correct (bad guys tending to go to dark places) and he was restored to us. Huzzah.We had a long weekend off starting with the educational program taking us to Athens. I ended up hanging out with Mike, crashing with Mel (a friend of his) who's working at the Agora. His roommates had organized a party, but then some people came and said it'd been canceled. Turned out to be the best canceled party ever with lots of folks from the Agora dig showing up and hanging out. I enjoyed pretending to be an archeologist for a bit (although I'd come clean about my full part on the team after awhile). Bizarre dynamics though - our Kenchreai crew had much better bonding, basically no catty drama or anything of that sort. The next morning Mike and I headed to Hydra, a totally pedestrian island that we explored most of upon arrival as we looked for a place to sleep (a fun game). By the end we'd been directed by an old woman (Mike speaks Greek) to basically the highest house (which had rooms) where the man said he had nothing but would call his travel agency and see if they could help. After a short rest (this is all between 12-14h by the way and HOT) we headed back down to port. There was no room at the agency but a hotel, one of the first we'd passed, had things free. So always check the first stuff you pass. Later we explored the labyrinth to go up to a monastery/church overlooking the town below. Ate a little picnic, watched the sun slowly set- completely lovely. Almost as much as not having to get out of bed at 6 the next morning. I really do enjoy islands - we explored more the next day, ate excellent seafood and then caught a fast boat to Athens to take train to Korinthos; it was hard to go back to "the daily grind" even if had only been a few days out.
I fell in love with Nafpilo, a coastal town that was briefly the capital of Greece during the early days of the Greek state. It had the best gelatto ever (Italian run place), great walks, little beach (not the best but still easy to access). I ended up staying basically two weekends there - it was part of the excursion one weekend and I and some others just stayed, finding a pension. That weekend everything took 3 hours - frappe, dinner, ouzo on the sweet little balcony of our room. Really enjoyed relaxing with Katie and Mike. When I left the dig (Susan was flying back) I just went back because I liked it so much. Went swimming, ate more gelatto and seafood, tramped around more with Mike- a great way to end time in Greece.
In short a wonderful experience and one I was sad to have end. It was a great group of people not in the least because of their unfettered dork-ness and love of jokes (alright, so not everyone liked them. But still). I mean, any group that supports my throwing basically 3 birthday parties is one worth being around isn't it? As promised, there are photos as well. I'd go on and on, but feel I'm stretching word count. Next installment: new apartment!
Monday, June 25, 2007
Greece- quick note
I'm sitting in an internet cafe in Neo Kornithos - don't even want to know how hot it is, has been getting above 40 C (which is a bit intense). The dig is grand times thus far, been great meeting all these liberal arts types, learning about ancient times, having a community that is pretty welcoming and cohesive in just a short time.
I got to Athens on 9 June, stayed with the lovely Traci, Mike, Kate, and Laura. Explored some of the major sites but spent more time just hanging out. Then headed to the dig site and have been chilling with Andrew and Susan. The dig really got underway about a week ago, I've been the odd one out with my non-classics background (it's a heck of a story explaining how I got here) but think it's good to have someone who speaks living languages around to just mix things up if nothing else. Good mix of people, students are from all over and I've made some excellent friends already. And there's time to read! Huzzah!
Celebrated my birthday last week in high style - little Andrew and I went into town for a frappe, coloring in the morning. I went to the beach with Barbara in the afternoon, then threw a cocktail hour where people surprised me with sparklers, candles, singing and fun presents. Good times. Went out afterwards, Nikos, one of the restaurant owners in Old Corinth, is friends with the entire world it seems (I've met a Serbian guy (yay practicing), the police chief, and some others through him). Had excellent baklava. Saturday we had a big dinner at his place with roast lamb and all the trimmings, then a dance party on the terrace overlooking the ruins of Ancient Corinth. (I hate the fact that spelling for place names is all madness here changing). It was a great few days of birthday joy.
I think Andrew and I are basically entertainment for the whole dig. It's nice to be loved.
And I even have tan lines. yessir.
I got to Athens on 9 June, stayed with the lovely Traci, Mike, Kate, and Laura. Explored some of the major sites but spent more time just hanging out. Then headed to the dig site and have been chilling with Andrew and Susan. The dig really got underway about a week ago, I've been the odd one out with my non-classics background (it's a heck of a story explaining how I got here) but think it's good to have someone who speaks living languages around to just mix things up if nothing else. Good mix of people, students are from all over and I've made some excellent friends already. And there's time to read! Huzzah!
Celebrated my birthday last week in high style - little Andrew and I went into town for a frappe, coloring in the morning. I went to the beach with Barbara in the afternoon, then threw a cocktail hour where people surprised me with sparklers, candles, singing and fun presents. Good times. Went out afterwards, Nikos, one of the restaurant owners in Old Corinth, is friends with the entire world it seems (I've met a Serbian guy (yay practicing), the police chief, and some others through him). Had excellent baklava. Saturday we had a big dinner at his place with roast lamb and all the trimmings, then a dance party on the terrace overlooking the ruins of Ancient Corinth. (I hate the fact that spelling for place names is all madness here changing). It was a great few days of birthday joy.
I think Andrew and I are basically entertainment for the whole dig. It's nice to be loved.
And I even have tan lines. yessir.
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
Cafe musings
It's funny, we spend a lot of time in cafes here (by we I mean seemingly everyone in town). And there's always the search for the perfect one - they have widely different personalities. Some are great for afternoon lounging, others for a quick(er) cuppa, yet others for nighttime but never day. I've been discovering some tucked away ones, great big terrace kinda places. Practically every place now has outdoor seating set up, great to watch the world go by. But regardless of where you go, you need at least 10 minutes to get the waiter's attention for your bill so you can leave. I went and downloaded photos from Oplenac the other day at one with free wifi. Which was great except that the waiter spilled coffee all over my computer (he broke the first rule of serving - always use a tray)! Now it's caffeinated although I've been told decaf is better for electronics.
And then yesterday our server asked me and a friend if we were from Beograd. She thought I was English and he from North Africa or Asia or something. Bizarre. But funny. I had a student the other day think I was Serbian for the entire lesson (he'd not been in the class when I'd visited before). Acclimation? Or just that we see what we expect to see? Or is it the new haircut?
And then yesterday our server asked me and a friend if we were from Beograd. She thought I was English and he from North Africa or Asia or something. Bizarre. But funny. I had a student the other day think I was Serbian for the entire lesson (he'd not been in the class when I'd visited before). Acclimation? Or just that we see what we expect to see? Or is it the new haircut?
Wednesday, May 23, 2007
Topola - countryside, churches, kings
Two Sundays ago saw me leaving the metropolis for pastoral calm. My new friend Eric succeeded in borrowing a car, so we'd decided to go do some outside of Belgrade sight-seeing. I'd heard of this cool church from some people a few weeks ago about 50 km or so south of Beograd so we met at noon to head to Topola along with my friend Dušan (local expert since his mother's family is from the area).
I'll preference this by saying that my friend Tijana had a birthday party the night before (A super fun time with a black and white theme, salsa music. I got to wear my new dress.) and that'd I'd walked a friend home in the wee smalls of the morning since he was not able to himself. What makes it even better was that when I was walking back homewards I passed these people sitting outside a cafe drinking coffee as if there was nothing else more normal to do at 5:30 a.m. One said something to me in Serbian, I asked him to repeat and then finally had to pull out "Izvini, učim srpski." "Odakle si?" "Ja sam iz amerike." "Stvarno?" "Da." "You must come and have coffee with us." My half-hearted protest went unheard, and I sat where I was told to, drank my espresso with milk and listened to Serbian with some English mixed in. Cool crowd - a singer, the cafe owner, various friends. I got home and to bed around 7 a.m.... just fantastic.
So there I was, mostly awake and bouncy at noon. We figured out the way there, took a bit of a scenic detour when Dušan missed a turn and finally got to Topola. After stopping for coffee and chatting about educational systems (I'm telling you, learning all the time) headed to the church. It's completely done in mosaics inside, incredibly beautiful. This is the seat of the Serbian royal family, the uprising against the Turks happened around here as well (although don't ask me for dates- I was never good with them). In the church's crypt are the tombs of various royals, saw the first king of Serbia's grave and subsequent family. I just loved the walls, the mosaics are quite finely done with this vivid lapis blue and other colors.
We poked around the rest of the grounds, stopping by a little museum with artifacts about King Aleksander and Queen Marija (a total fox in that 1920-30s way), tramping through the woods a bit to find a gorgeous view over fields and hills - looked a bit like Indiana when all is said and done. Was wonderful just to be out in green again, I'd not realized how much I missed it. There was a funny moment when we went and found the wine house - it was full of contemporary art. No drinks for us. Then down the huge hill to a little church (not decorated so much), another small museum with Serbian history - Turkish uprising, peasant life (looked a lot like stuff from Conner Prairie or another pioneer town), moving Karađorđević's body. I worked on practicing my cyrillic, wished that Nemenja was there to make the history seem real (he's my official Serbian history teacher). After circling the town looking for food got some grill, the men had tea and continuing our rambling conversation before walking up the hill again, driving back to the city.
Driving through the Serbian countryside we could see the effects of a changing society - people are moving more and more to urban areas since there's not so much work to be had in the villages. The highway reminded me a bit of Highway 40 through Indiana; little towns that saw their prime years ago, now are worn down and faded. I won't wax sociologist here, but I still contend the country is pretty much the same worldwide (and not just in the way that it's almost impossible to enter as an outsider). It's comforting in an odd kinda way.
I'll preference this by saying that my friend Tijana had a birthday party the night before (A super fun time with a black and white theme, salsa music. I got to wear my new dress.) and that'd I'd walked a friend home in the wee smalls of the morning since he was not able to himself. What makes it even better was that when I was walking back homewards I passed these people sitting outside a cafe drinking coffee as if there was nothing else more normal to do at 5:30 a.m. One said something to me in Serbian, I asked him to repeat and then finally had to pull out "Izvini, učim srpski." "Odakle si?" "Ja sam iz amerike." "Stvarno?" "Da." "You must come and have coffee with us." My half-hearted protest went unheard, and I sat where I was told to, drank my espresso with milk and listened to Serbian with some English mixed in. Cool crowd - a singer, the cafe owner, various friends. I got home and to bed around 7 a.m.... just fantastic.
So there I was, mostly awake and bouncy at noon. We figured out the way there, took a bit of a scenic detour when Dušan missed a turn and finally got to Topola. After stopping for coffee and chatting about educational systems (I'm telling you, learning all the time) headed to the church. It's completely done in mosaics inside, incredibly beautiful. This is the seat of the Serbian royal family, the uprising against the Turks happened around here as well (although don't ask me for dates- I was never good with them). In the church's crypt are the tombs of various royals, saw the first king of Serbia's grave and subsequent family. I just loved the walls, the mosaics are quite finely done with this vivid lapis blue and other colors.
We poked around the rest of the grounds, stopping by a little museum with artifacts about King Aleksander and Queen Marija (a total fox in that 1920-30s way), tramping through the woods a bit to find a gorgeous view over fields and hills - looked a bit like Indiana when all is said and done. Was wonderful just to be out in green again, I'd not realized how much I missed it. There was a funny moment when we went and found the wine house - it was full of contemporary art. No drinks for us. Then down the huge hill to a little church (not decorated so much), another small museum with Serbian history - Turkish uprising, peasant life (looked a lot like stuff from Conner Prairie or another pioneer town), moving Karađorđević's body. I worked on practicing my cyrillic, wished that Nemenja was there to make the history seem real (he's my official Serbian history teacher). After circling the town looking for food got some grill, the men had tea and continuing our rambling conversation before walking up the hill again, driving back to the city.
Driving through the Serbian countryside we could see the effects of a changing society - people are moving more and more to urban areas since there's not so much work to be had in the villages. The highway reminded me a bit of Highway 40 through Indiana; little towns that saw their prime years ago, now are worn down and faded. I won't wax sociologist here, but I still contend the country is pretty much the same worldwide (and not just in the way that it's almost impossible to enter as an outsider). It's comforting in an odd kinda way.
Thursday, May 17, 2007
Emotions and government
It's been an emotional week. Last Monday I was surrounded by people deeply worried by their current political situation spouting gloom and doom, making plans of escape, saying the country would regress to the 90s, etc. Then colleagues at another school said I shouldn't worry at all, everything would be fine, I'd see. No need to be down. I find out that my grandfather died somewhat unexpectedly Friday morning and that getting home for the funeral is completely out of the question. Meanwhile Serbia wins Eurovision Saturday night (the birthday party I was at frankly was a bit lame until the final results since most people were just sitting and watching it), Marija Šerifović does have a fantastic voice so that's a great thing. Sunday sees Nikolić stepping down as the Parliament speaker, a new government being formed that's much more to the liking of the people I spend my time with. My students say this Monday that they really weren't worried, they were just worried for my sake. And, of course, the only reason I was worried was because everyone else seemed to be.
Now, anyone who says that the government waited until the last minute to form is exaggerating. They had a whole half hour left before the deadline. I mean, come on, they could have put it off a bit longer. Although 11:30 p.m. on a Tuesday isn't a bad time to make a government if you like that kind of thing. Interestingly enough, during the live broadcast when it's recess time they totally cut the sound. This, perhaps unfortunately, lets silly people like me do running commentary about these political figures that I know actually very little about. Think Mystery Science Theater. Ivan thought it was funny at least. But anything is possible in Serbia. Which is why I'm still here. I love absurdism and it most definitely thrives here in a very rich and developed way.
Now, anyone who says that the government waited until the last minute to form is exaggerating. They had a whole half hour left before the deadline. I mean, come on, they could have put it off a bit longer. Although 11:30 p.m. on a Tuesday isn't a bad time to make a government if you like that kind of thing. Interestingly enough, during the live broadcast when it's recess time they totally cut the sound. This, perhaps unfortunately, lets silly people like me do running commentary about these political figures that I know actually very little about. Think Mystery Science Theater. Ivan thought it was funny at least. But anything is possible in Serbia. Which is why I'm still here. I love absurdism and it most definitely thrives here in a very rich and developed way.
Wednesday, May 2, 2007
Sesame Street
It's funny how one assumes that EVERYONE watched Sesame Street as a kid. Unfortunately, Julia and co. missed out on this excellence. So I'm bringing my culture and history here to Belgrade courtesy of YouTube. Here are some of the best ones (after Cookie Monster clips, which is how we go on this topic anyway); enjoy traipsing down memory lane. Orange singing Carmen, How crayons are made, Alligator in my room, Rebel L,
1st May
Walking down the street yesterday in city center, it was totally and completely empty. Worse than on a Sunday. So here's my question - why is it when people are working the streets and cafes are full but when they're not everything is empty? True, many go have cookouts and flee to pastoral calm, but still... curious.
Happy 1st May, a huge national holiday here (it being Labor day and all that). I spent it sleeping in, then heading into town with some friends before going on a walk about "Invisible Belgrade" that my Serbian school organized. We went around and saw places where Roman ruins are (although none are really visible), talked about Celtic and Roman times. I think it's fascinating how the main roads are on top of the old Roman ones. That these arteries have been key for centuries. It makes complete sense but doesn't make it less cool. My fellow American on the walk is the future military attaché for the US Embassy. Madness who one meets.
The rest of the day was spent in various forms of revelry (with plans changing until the last minute as per usual - going to a splav became going out to eat, something we hardly ever do). But all in all a fine time had by all. Today is work free for me and most everyone else as well, but I'll have to start thinking about the next three days where I teach at least 5 hours for each. And do my Serbian homework. Ah, school.
Happy 1st May, a huge national holiday here (it being Labor day and all that). I spent it sleeping in, then heading into town with some friends before going on a walk about "Invisible Belgrade" that my Serbian school organized. We went around and saw places where Roman ruins are (although none are really visible), talked about Celtic and Roman times. I think it's fascinating how the main roads are on top of the old Roman ones. That these arteries have been key for centuries. It makes complete sense but doesn't make it less cool. My fellow American on the walk is the future military attaché for the US Embassy. Madness who one meets.
The rest of the day was spent in various forms of revelry (with plans changing until the last minute as per usual - going to a splav became going out to eat, something we hardly ever do). But all in all a fine time had by all. Today is work free for me and most everyone else as well, but I'll have to start thinking about the next three days where I teach at least 5 hours for each. And do my Serbian homework. Ah, school.
Wednesday, April 25, 2007
Kryptonite!
I now have a new reason to give when people ask me why I'm in Serbia - it's the home of Kryptonite! Really and truly - BBC says so! This explains so very much...
I've also linked to a map of Serbia so you can see where places are. Alright, off to thwart some super villians...
Friday, April 20, 2007
Oh, and photos
Easter
I spent Easter weekend (Catholic and Orthodox were on the same Sunday this year) in Valjevo with Milica, a colleague, and her family. It's a medium-sized town southwest of Belgrade, about hour and half by bus, pop. 100,000 or so. It was my first smaller town in Serbia and I had a great time. We went out the first evening to Brooka (cafe/bar) and I think I met most of Milica's high school class. The place was so full I didn't see the inside at all, everyone was standing outside and talking, talking. It was great also meeting so many members of Milica's family; everyone was completely welcoming (but that's what Serbia's known for after all). We spent time cafes along the river, walking around the town (there's still a section that looks quite Turk), hiking a little in the woods... it was good to get out of Belgrade just for a little while. Learned about local history, there are tons of statues and landmarks people were more than willing to explain. One local hero was supposed to be so tall he bathed his feet in the river when sitting at the top of a high hill; reminds me of Paul Bunyan stories a bit - based on a real person but myth now.
I also randomly met a family who'd been living in Chicago (cousins of Milica's friend Katarina who now lives in Italy). The nine year old daughter wowed a room of college graduates as she and I chatted about things like Harry Potter and jelly beans in totally American English. It was funny to hear the idioms and "like" every third word. The funny part was the English teachers who were green with envy - we all want to speak like a native. I have issues with my Serbian because no matter how fast I try to go it's still not to the level of my French or English (naturally) and it's irksome to drop into this inarticulate being na srpskom. But must practice and so I do (Valjevo was a definite immersion, my listening comprehension is light-years beyond where it was a month ago). Her little brother did an excellent performance of "what's cookin' good lookin'?" while lounging in a door frame (he's five, a complete clown).
Once again, the world is small.
I drove back to Belgrade with one of my students from Millian school. She and her husband are architects, turns out he designed the Belgrade Philharmonic and French Cultural Center, both really cool interior spaces. I've already said the world is small, so won't repeat myself. Again, I'm always thankful for the kindness of those I meet; it makes adventuring that much richer.
A fun Easter thing I learned was how eggs (jaje) work here. People dye them in mass quantities, often putting flowers or plants on them before to leave pictures. Then you crack eggs together, pointy side to pointy side, then flip them over. You don't want your egg to break (because then you loose). So always look for strong looking eggs. People bring them when visiting friends, family - lots and lots of eggs were eaten last week.
But they don't have jelly beans. No place is perfect afterall.
I also randomly met a family who'd been living in Chicago (cousins of Milica's friend Katarina who now lives in Italy). The nine year old daughter wowed a room of college graduates as she and I chatted about things like Harry Potter and jelly beans in totally American English. It was funny to hear the idioms and "like" every third word. The funny part was the English teachers who were green with envy - we all want to speak like a native. I have issues with my Serbian because no matter how fast I try to go it's still not to the level of my French or English (naturally) and it's irksome to drop into this inarticulate being na srpskom. But must practice and so I do (Valjevo was a definite immersion, my listening comprehension is light-years beyond where it was a month ago). Her little brother did an excellent performance of "what's cookin' good lookin'?" while lounging in a door frame (he's five, a complete clown).
Once again, the world is small.
I drove back to Belgrade with one of my students from Millian school. She and her husband are architects, turns out he designed the Belgrade Philharmonic and French Cultural Center, both really cool interior spaces. I've already said the world is small, so won't repeat myself. Again, I'm always thankful for the kindness of those I meet; it makes adventuring that much richer.
A fun Easter thing I learned was how eggs (jaje) work here. People dye them in mass quantities, often putting flowers or plants on them before to leave pictures. Then you crack eggs together, pointy side to pointy side, then flip them over. You don't want your egg to break (because then you loose). So always look for strong looking eggs. People bring them when visiting friends, family - lots and lots of eggs were eaten last week.
But they don't have jelly beans. No place is perfect afterall.
On this Friday... some thoughts
One of the things I'm discovering I enjoy about teaching adults and university students is that I learn all sorts of things. One class the other day was full of economics majors so we talked about corporate structure in Serbia, unemployment, some of the whys behind it. I also learned recently that the Serbian government hasn't actually formed since the elections in the fall.
So what's the largest NGO in Serbia right now? Serbia.
In other news, I'm going to Greece in June to help out on this dig - the Kenchreai Cemetary Project I'll be with the fabulous Susan Wise and not-so-little Andrew. I'm getting excited although lots of logistics to figure out. Thankfully it times out so that I leave Belgrade exactly when my 90 days here are up on my current visa. That takes me into July, I'm still figuring out what the rest of the summer will bring but will be back here to teach again come September.
So what's the largest NGO in Serbia right now? Serbia.
In other news, I'm going to Greece in June to help out on this dig - the Kenchreai Cemetary Project I'll be with the fabulous Susan Wise and not-so-little Andrew. I'm getting excited although lots of logistics to figure out. Thankfully it times out so that I leave Belgrade exactly when my 90 days here are up on my current visa. That takes me into July, I'm still figuring out what the rest of the summer will bring but will be back here to teach again come September.
Wednesday, April 11, 2007
Giving in...
So I've bitten the bullet and started a blog. The mass email was getting a bit too massive, so now you can follow my adventures in life when you get the time. Exciting what?
I'm currently teaching English at 2 private language schools in Beograd, Serbia. Been here since first week of March and still settling in. Currently I spend my mornings learning Serbian (my extravagance for the month was buying private lessons), afternoons and evenings teaching English, and nights with friends exploring the city or just hanging out. There's my 30 second update. I'll fill in my weekend in Valjevo soon...
I'm currently teaching English at 2 private language schools in Beograd, Serbia. Been here since first week of March and still settling in. Currently I spend my mornings learning Serbian (my extravagance for the month was buying private lessons), afternoons and evenings teaching English, and nights with friends exploring the city or just hanging out. There's my 30 second update. I'll fill in my weekend in Valjevo soon...
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