After hearing students mispronounce Yosemite for months (they say it Yo-see-might (yes, those are fake phonetics. I don't care much for phonetics in a general way...)) finally I got to go see it for myself! Martin and I went for his birthday, leaving Thursday afternoon and driving into rush hour traffic, extending our together time in the car perhaps just a bit more than ideal. I hate the stop and go of rush hour; and then it was quickly dark with nothing much to do and miles to go.
Luckily, Martin isn't only good-looking, he's also smart. So he suggested we play a game: someone picks a letter and then we both look for words beginning with it. I was skeptical, but quickly became very good at it. It was a theme of the trip, with a new letter either in the morning or after a long time being out of the car. There are lots of words that start with c, for example, along highway 49. Who knew? It was a fun way to watch the road as I navigated our way on twisty bits of highway and byway.
Because it was a last minute trip, we ended up staying in Sonora, a very tourist trap looking town with some nice people in it. Our Days Inn even turned out to be in a historic hotel building on the main drag (the soundproofing was less than ideal). It was a little over an hour's drive to Yosemite itself and then lots of time in the car once you get inside the park... I'm truly tired of sitting down.
Thankfully there was lots to see outside. We took some mini-hikes, enjoyed looking at incredible configurations of rocks, trees, and waterfalls that were endless in their combination, yet never boring. It's a magnificent place. I felt like I was in an Ansel Adams photo album pretty much the entire time (but in color!). There was a frightening moment when we were debating lunch options at the food court at Yosemite Lodge. Suddenly, a busload worth of European (mostly French) tourists comes flowing in like a torrent, swarming over trays and working to get into lines in a layout that is not well-designed for traffic flow. We were slightly scared, and so got out while the getting was good, fighting against the stream for the door and then outside to comparative safety. Unfortunately the next lunch possibility was a 20 minute walk back to where we'd just been, but the deli at the end made it all ok.
This weekend adventure means that I've not quite gotten my reading done for classes tomorrow, but look for a post with photos soon! Summary sentence: Yosemite is gorgeous beyond belief, though one acclimates after a few hours. Kind of. And then it gets dark... incredible stars at night too.
It even defies a summary sentence. How's that for a plug?
Showing posts with label other travels. Show all posts
Showing posts with label other travels. Show all posts
Sunday, September 18, 2011
Friday, September 24, 2010
Slide every mountain!
One of the joys about being unemployed is that I can do things like go on a hike early Thursday morning with my lovely friend Victoria. She'd found a route over at the base of Mount Tam (in Marin Headlands) at Stinson Beach. It was a good looking loop and since I can walk for miles with my now almost-healed hip, I figured, why not?
My attempts to get to bed early were only slightly successful - my friend Matthew and I discovered a great wine bar in Glen Park, Red & White, but hadn't gotten too crazy the night before (they only do small production wines, incredible service, truly a treat!). Still, I was ready to go at 8 a.m. (early on my clock) and we set out to cross the Golden Gate Bridge.
There have been some lessons. One is that if the directions to get to the trailhead aren't very clear, chances are the directions for the route itself also won't be very clear. We did find it with a slight detour along Highway 1 (but it's so gorgeous who cares?) and headed into the woods. Amazing trees, canyon with stream, gorgeous gorgeous gorgeous. We were feeling pretty great and going up and up and up. Then get to an unclear fork. Looking at our directions we should have turned at Table Rock - Victoria swears she saw a sign farther down (I missed it) so what do we do? We check our position with the GPS on her phone (ah, the joys of the wilderness... cellphone signal) and it looks like if we head right going downhill we'll get back to where we should be.
So down we go. It's clear quickly that the grade is, ummm, steep. Sheer is another word that comes to mind. Lesson #2: stay on the bigger looking trails. The soil is sandy and prone to shift under our feet. We go very carefully. And then, about 2/3 down, I slip and slide on my problem hip maybe 20 feet. I go a little farther because sliding is easier than walking at this point. Wonderfully I'm not hurt, but now COVERED in dirt. And bruised a little more than I'd like. But I look totally badass. Victoria doesn't slide, but later trips over a rock on a level area of the path. Lesson #3: always watch your step. We are graceful hikers.
Eventually we find the path we'd been on, but below the turnoff point. Good riddance. End up trekking back down to the town of Stinson Beach and then along the beach itself. Snacks on rocks by the ocean are terrific things to have. Thus, we hiked, but not really where or how we had planned to. However, definitely worth getting back there better prepared and giving it another go!
My attempts to get to bed early were only slightly successful - my friend Matthew and I discovered a great wine bar in Glen Park, Red & White, but hadn't gotten too crazy the night before (they only do small production wines, incredible service, truly a treat!). Still, I was ready to go at 8 a.m. (early on my clock) and we set out to cross the Golden Gate Bridge.
There have been some lessons. One is that if the directions to get to the trailhead aren't very clear, chances are the directions for the route itself also won't be very clear. We did find it with a slight detour along Highway 1 (but it's so gorgeous who cares?) and headed into the woods. Amazing trees, canyon with stream, gorgeous gorgeous gorgeous. We were feeling pretty great and going up and up and up. Then get to an unclear fork. Looking at our directions we should have turned at Table Rock - Victoria swears she saw a sign farther down (I missed it) so what do we do? We check our position with the GPS on her phone (ah, the joys of the wilderness... cellphone signal) and it looks like if we head right going downhill we'll get back to where we should be.
So down we go. It's clear quickly that the grade is, ummm, steep. Sheer is another word that comes to mind. Lesson #2: stay on the bigger looking trails. The soil is sandy and prone to shift under our feet. We go very carefully. And then, about 2/3 down, I slip and slide on my problem hip maybe 20 feet. I go a little farther because sliding is easier than walking at this point. Wonderfully I'm not hurt, but now COVERED in dirt. And bruised a little more than I'd like. But I look totally badass. Victoria doesn't slide, but later trips over a rock on a level area of the path. Lesson #3: always watch your step. We are graceful hikers.
Eventually we find the path we'd been on, but below the turnoff point. Good riddance. End up trekking back down to the town of Stinson Beach and then along the beach itself. Snacks on rocks by the ocean are terrific things to have. Thus, we hiked, but not really where or how we had planned to. However, definitely worth getting back there better prepared and giving it another go!
Monday, February 8, 2010
The not so frozen north
The trip to Humbolt county at the start of January was, ummm, not quite what we expected. Mike and I actually had made a reservation at a historic B&B in small town outside of Eureka. We never make reservations and thus have started most our trips trekking around looking for a place to stay. After eating an incredible brunch that lasted from 1 to 4 with Sarah and Nic we took off, figured out how to use Mike's ipod to listen to some interesting podcasts (Stuff you never learned in history class is my favorite). (Later buying a cable let us plug it into the car and thus actually hear everything through the much louder car speakers.) I drove curvy dark roads I didn't know in the fog and we arrived to Ferndale around 9 p.m.
Apparently the sidewalks roll up at 8 or 8:30, depending on the day.
The Lost Coast was gorgeous (it's lost because eroding into the sea, always shifting). Having a car let us drive around and explore random spots - a cheese factory in Loleta had viewing windows to the big vats of curds; it was like watching a Mr Roger's episode but in real life. Eureka had a few excellent used bookstores, also we got to tour the Lost Coast Brewery (this micro brew places are so tiny!) and ate lunch at their cafe. Trinidad further north was again gorgeous beaches and ocean too cold to even think about going near. Lots of natural beauty.
Unfortunately I got a fever on the first full day we were there and was very sick for most of the time we were supposed to be relaxing on vacation. Not the best timing, that's for sure. Sore throat, fever, coughing - not enjoyable for anyone around, that's for sure. I lost my appetite, which was a pity considering the HUGE portions of breakfast that came with our room. Granted, they weren't the tastiest examples of their kind. Still, I hate sending a plate off with stuff still on it.
Ferndale was a small town with lots of money, not a bucolic wilderness but one full of vitriol among its residents. We had a lively conversation one night with a gentleman who Mike reminded of his son, a new professor at Harvard under the age of 30 in statistical law. Wild. He wasn't from the town and had an outsider's view on gossip besides his own engaging stories to tell. And arguments to make. It was a diverting evening, but even so, we won't be returning to that spot.
But the redwoods when we were driving back in a misty rain - amazing. We hiked a little loop trail and were amazed at the grandeur, the silence, the sheer hugeness of the trees. It's the place I would go back to for spending more time for sure. Green, immense... beyond beautiful.
In our next episode: Film Noir fest. That'll finish out January's big fun. Stay tuned.
Apparently the sidewalks roll up at 8 or 8:30, depending on the day.
The Lost Coast was gorgeous (it's lost because eroding into the sea, always shifting). Having a car let us drive around and explore random spots - a cheese factory in Loleta had viewing windows to the big vats of curds; it was like watching a Mr Roger's episode but in real life. Eureka had a few excellent used bookstores, also we got to tour the Lost Coast Brewery (this micro brew places are so tiny!) and ate lunch at their cafe. Trinidad further north was again gorgeous beaches and ocean too cold to even think about going near. Lots of natural beauty.
Unfortunately I got a fever on the first full day we were there and was very sick for most of the time we were supposed to be relaxing on vacation. Not the best timing, that's for sure. Sore throat, fever, coughing - not enjoyable for anyone around, that's for sure. I lost my appetite, which was a pity considering the HUGE portions of breakfast that came with our room. Granted, they weren't the tastiest examples of their kind. Still, I hate sending a plate off with stuff still on it.
Ferndale was a small town with lots of money, not a bucolic wilderness but one full of vitriol among its residents. We had a lively conversation one night with a gentleman who Mike reminded of his son, a new professor at Harvard under the age of 30 in statistical law. Wild. He wasn't from the town and had an outsider's view on gossip besides his own engaging stories to tell. And arguments to make. It was a diverting evening, but even so, we won't be returning to that spot.
But the redwoods when we were driving back in a misty rain - amazing. We hiked a little loop trail and were amazed at the grandeur, the silence, the sheer hugeness of the trees. It's the place I would go back to for spending more time for sure. Green, immense... beyond beautiful.
In our next episode: Film Noir fest. That'll finish out January's big fun. Stay tuned.
Sunday, November 29, 2009
Turkey turkey
Thanksgiving still tops my list of holidays, probably because it's when the Qualls family gathers at my house and makes merry for days on end. Was talking with Uncle Jim and Kenny this year and it seems like the tradition has been going on for almost 10 years now. Wow. The cousins are certainly bigger, though the noise level is about the same :)
Things I have learned from my whirlwind trip to Indiana are as follows:
1. When taking a red-eye on the Monday of Thanksgiving week make sure there are no teams on the flight. Even though there were children galore, they made no noise. The teenage girls behind me talking in graphic detail about their pseudo sex lives and general gossip, however, did. At length. And since the plane sat at the gate longer than usual I got to hear all of it since there were no engines on. Glorious.
2. Swimming is fantastic. As it playing badminton with my brother Michael's 3 times a week crew, though still lost. I am much better at badminton and swimming than Guitar Hero or Rock Band. Much, much better.
3. My cousin Aqdas and I have impeccable, frugal fashion sense. We both were wearing the same shirt when she arrived on Wednesday though in different colors. Old Navy does have its uses.
4. White dog when like black = lots of hairs to clean off furniture, clothes, etc. Cassie has learned this lesson with a vengeance.
5. Dinner will never actually be ready to serve at 1 p.m. Carving 2 turkeys makes the 2nd one go faster because Uncle Bill and I have gotten our rhythm back. Carrot souffle is always delicious.
6. Playing Apples to Apples with Yuki's sister was tons of fun and aided by her little pocket translator. Clever.
7. Waking up before 5 a.m. to catch a flight isn't fun, but isn't too hard when you only have to do it once. The Indy airport is incredibly long, though the lines at 6:30 are nonexistent. I'm glad too that I never had to be at coffee shop at 3 a.m. at an airport for work.
I'm sure there's more but I must get ready for work. Getting off a plane and then going to work yesterday was interesting, though I was beyond hungry by the end. Yay for going out to eat with Mike at a Peruvian place we'd never tried; the ceviche was amazing. And a change from holiday festive food. But it was a wonderful holiday - I hope you all had a great time as well!
Things I have learned from my whirlwind trip to Indiana are as follows:
1. When taking a red-eye on the Monday of Thanksgiving week make sure there are no teams on the flight. Even though there were children galore, they made no noise. The teenage girls behind me talking in graphic detail about their pseudo sex lives and general gossip, however, did. At length. And since the plane sat at the gate longer than usual I got to hear all of it since there were no engines on. Glorious.
2. Swimming is fantastic. As it playing badminton with my brother Michael's 3 times a week crew, though still lost. I am much better at badminton and swimming than Guitar Hero or Rock Band. Much, much better.
3. My cousin Aqdas and I have impeccable, frugal fashion sense. We both were wearing the same shirt when she arrived on Wednesday though in different colors. Old Navy does have its uses.
4. White dog when like black = lots of hairs to clean off furniture, clothes, etc. Cassie has learned this lesson with a vengeance.
5. Dinner will never actually be ready to serve at 1 p.m. Carving 2 turkeys makes the 2nd one go faster because Uncle Bill and I have gotten our rhythm back. Carrot souffle is always delicious.
6. Playing Apples to Apples with Yuki's sister was tons of fun and aided by her little pocket translator. Clever.
7. Waking up before 5 a.m. to catch a flight isn't fun, but isn't too hard when you only have to do it once. The Indy airport is incredibly long, though the lines at 6:30 are nonexistent. I'm glad too that I never had to be at coffee shop at 3 a.m. at an airport for work.
I'm sure there's more but I must get ready for work. Getting off a plane and then going to work yesterday was interesting, though I was beyond hungry by the end. Yay for going out to eat with Mike at a Peruvian place we'd never tried; the ceviche was amazing. And a change from holiday festive food. But it was a wonderful holiday - I hope you all had a great time as well!
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Just a travelin' lady - US style
With the new job I've found a whole new world that doesn't begin at 4:15 a.m. It's exciting times, though I've been perhaps spending too much money going out to eat and drink in the evenings. What can you do? There are so many delicious places here... but this is not another San Francisco food blog. Not yet anyway.
The end of October had me and Mike heading to Baltimore to visit his parents; they moved in May to Ellicot City and now live in what used to be a huge textile mill (since converted into apartments). It was gorgeous, right on the river with a train track near by and woods. We walked one morning into the little town, just a mile or so along the river on a slightly muddy path. Lots of antiques, little shops that you wonder how they stay open (answer: tourists).
Crab is the food of, well, always in the Baltimore area. First restaurant we went to was a great place right on the water. A crab stuffed pretzel covered with cheese made for delicious - the fact that you could get anything stuffed with crab on the menu was eye-opening. As were the crab cakes. One afternoon met my friend Robin from Earlham down at Fell's Point and explored a gentrifying neighborhood. There was a chess store - with tables for playing - as well as incredible gelato. Sunday we explored the Baltimore Art Museum and saw excellent Matisse print exhibition. The museum was also part of the Antioch mosaic excavation so saw floors from where we'd been in Turkey in '08. It was like seeing old friends unexpectedly. A copy of Rodin's The Thinker completed the glass-walled courtyard.
And then Maggie was there in a flurry of excitement having driven up from D.C. We got snacks and chatted, then drove to have dinner with Mike's folks and chat the evening away. A lovely time overall even if transnational flights seem to never end.
This past Sunday, traveling on the brain, I took off for Tahoe to see Alojzya for the first time. Driving up mountains in the dark late at night perhaps wasn't the most convenient way of doing things, but it was what needed to be done. Tahoe was incredible with its lake, the mountains, the pine forests, the coyotes singing at night... even if high altitudes make me sleepy and everything just a little bit more exhausting. Will post pictures soon!
The end of October had me and Mike heading to Baltimore to visit his parents; they moved in May to Ellicot City and now live in what used to be a huge textile mill (since converted into apartments). It was gorgeous, right on the river with a train track near by and woods. We walked one morning into the little town, just a mile or so along the river on a slightly muddy path. Lots of antiques, little shops that you wonder how they stay open (answer: tourists).
Crab is the food of, well, always in the Baltimore area. First restaurant we went to was a great place right on the water. A crab stuffed pretzel covered with cheese made for delicious - the fact that you could get anything stuffed with crab on the menu was eye-opening. As were the crab cakes. One afternoon met my friend Robin from Earlham down at Fell's Point and explored a gentrifying neighborhood. There was a chess store - with tables for playing - as well as incredible gelato. Sunday we explored the Baltimore Art Museum and saw excellent Matisse print exhibition. The museum was also part of the Antioch mosaic excavation so saw floors from where we'd been in Turkey in '08. It was like seeing old friends unexpectedly. A copy of Rodin's The Thinker completed the glass-walled courtyard.
And then Maggie was there in a flurry of excitement having driven up from D.C. We got snacks and chatted, then drove to have dinner with Mike's folks and chat the evening away. A lovely time overall even if transnational flights seem to never end.
This past Sunday, traveling on the brain, I took off for Tahoe to see Alojzya for the first time. Driving up mountains in the dark late at night perhaps wasn't the most convenient way of doing things, but it was what needed to be done. Tahoe was incredible with its lake, the mountains, the pine forests, the coyotes singing at night... even if high altitudes make me sleepy and everything just a little bit more exhausting. Will post pictures soon!
Sunday, August 31, 2008
Photo!
So I'm worried about McCain's VP choice - apparently she wants to kill polar bears. And had foreign policy experience because you can see Russia on a clear day from where she is. Hmmm. And then New Orleans will be hit with a hurricane in 12 hours or so. It's a scary world.
I wanted to put up this photo (taken by Hakki, the most relaxed and chill human I've ever met) from the Syria trip because it's actually a decent one and Mum always fusses that there are never any photos of me (there's the original and then what I cropped below). I'm still working on posting the trip itself when I become unmired from entering Bike's locus sheets and edit Maria's senior thesis so she can finally get her hands on her B.S. The compound's beginning to empty too - season really is winding down. But I think we still have enough to try and play volleyball, so that's a good thing.
I wanted to put up this photo (taken by Hakki, the most relaxed and chill human I've ever met) from the Syria trip because it's actually a decent one and Mum always fusses that there are never any photos of me (there's the original and then what I cropped below). I'm still working on posting the trip itself when I become unmired from entering Bike's locus sheets and edit Maria's senior thesis so she can finally get her hands on her B.S. The compound's beginning to empty too - season really is winding down. But I think we still have enough to try and play volleyball, so that's a good thing.
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
An incredible food experience
Mike's pretty sick - it seems that the infection he's had for awhile has spread to his hip joint or something, causing a bunch of hospital visits yesterday and then a MRI (among other things) to get a real diagnosis today. In the afternoon I went back with him to the hospital mostly to be a handholder and distraction; it was a long and tiring time with people saying conflicting things in Turkish in the heat. He also hadn't really slept the night before because the pain was so bad, so exhaustion was kicking in.
Thus we stopped to pick up some kebab on the way back home so that he could take the pain-killers doctor gave us. Hanefi took us to a place along the highway towards our village where he seemed to know not only the owner but the men sitting around their drinks at the "kafeteria". So we order, guy asked if wanted garlic, spicey pepper - sure thing, I figure they'll make a sauce to order or something. Then he opens a refrigerator with what seems to be a dead cow or two hanging there, slices off a chunk of meat, weighs it, and then puts it in the meat grinder right in front of me. It looked like one of those old hand grinders but was motorized. So that passes through a bit, then goes into the food processor with the pepper and garlic (this will be Adana kebap that's a bit spicey it seems). Takes it out, throws it on the wooden counter in front of me and proceeds to chop, mash and then form two meat circles the size of dinner plates on pieces of paper. Some tomatoes are thrown on top and a little boy runs them out the door and down the street a ways, presumably to be cooked.
Meanwhile another little boy brings us cola, comes out to talk with Mike and I in the dolmus (since Mike's not supposed to walk and standing hurts). We have a funny English and Turkish conversation involving places we've been, where we're from, and the boys trying to sell us Ali, the Arab boy who's somewhere between6 and 8. Terribly cute, but we resist (they were concerned that I didn't have children I think). Finally after almost too much time the boys appear with giant newspaper packets - the meat circles are on huge ovals of fresh-baked flatbread and too hot to touch. Incredible stuff. And way yummy.
Today we just got back from the private hospital (my blogging is half digging, half medical issues it seems this summer). It was a long time and lots of doctors, but they squeezed him into the MRI and found liquid in his hip but seemingly no infection there. So days of rest are in order - since digging ends tomorrow and then people just stick around for a week or however long it takes to get their paperwork and final reports done, that's pretty ok. The best part was probably being in air conditioning for more than 2 seconds... huzzah! Gotta love those silver linings.
Thus we stopped to pick up some kebab on the way back home so that he could take the pain-killers doctor gave us. Hanefi took us to a place along the highway towards our village where he seemed to know not only the owner but the men sitting around their drinks at the "kafeteria". So we order, guy asked if wanted garlic, spicey pepper - sure thing, I figure they'll make a sauce to order or something. Then he opens a refrigerator with what seems to be a dead cow or two hanging there, slices off a chunk of meat, weighs it, and then puts it in the meat grinder right in front of me. It looked like one of those old hand grinders but was motorized. So that passes through a bit, then goes into the food processor with the pepper and garlic (this will be Adana kebap that's a bit spicey it seems). Takes it out, throws it on the wooden counter in front of me and proceeds to chop, mash and then form two meat circles the size of dinner plates on pieces of paper. Some tomatoes are thrown on top and a little boy runs them out the door and down the street a ways, presumably to be cooked.
Meanwhile another little boy brings us cola, comes out to talk with Mike and I in the dolmus (since Mike's not supposed to walk and standing hurts). We have a funny English and Turkish conversation involving places we've been, where we're from, and the boys trying to sell us Ali, the Arab boy who's somewhere between6 and 8. Terribly cute, but we resist (they were concerned that I didn't have children I think). Finally after almost too much time the boys appear with giant newspaper packets - the meat circles are on huge ovals of fresh-baked flatbread and too hot to touch. Incredible stuff. And way yummy.
Today we just got back from the private hospital (my blogging is half digging, half medical issues it seems this summer). It was a long time and lots of doctors, but they squeezed him into the MRI and found liquid in his hip but seemingly no infection there. So days of rest are in order - since digging ends tomorrow and then people just stick around for a week or however long it takes to get their paperwork and final reports done, that's pretty ok. The best part was probably being in air conditioning for more than 2 seconds... huzzah! Gotta love those silver linings.
Monday, August 25, 2008
Stormy weather
I've seen something I never imagined I'd see- rain here on the compound. Yesterday field crew had to stay home because of the wet, in the evening what promised to be a huge storm turned out to be a whole bunch of nothing. But playing volleyball in the sprinkling rain with it actually being cool was a lovely time. And we won a bunch -wooha!
Time here is winding down, digging ends Friday (and Ramadan begins!), people will be leaving right and left come 2/3rd Sept. Folks hold on in their own ways. I realized I never got to watch any Olympics - it makes me sad. And also that I keep not downloading photos, it's on the list to do I swear! (Although because of publication rights I can't post any of the site itself, so you'll have to see them in person if you're interested).
One cool project also mostly completed was my looking at over 40 pages of references to make them stylistically consistent. A big editing job, but I'm glad to have it done (I'm always wary these things will make their way back to me somehow - dealing with 2003-04 objects taught me that lesson already). I also learned the word for "publisher" in a couple languages, for example 'verlag' is German. Just to add to the bag of tricks I suppose.
Two days ago a girl here asked me "Are you really an English teacher?", her voice incredulous. I assured her that I'm just as, if not more so, goofy in class as I am often here. Can't believe I'll be going back to that in just a few weeks, although the plan to head back stateside is still going strong.
Other news of note was that I made some incredible brownies too - rich and gooey. Was proud considering I approximated some things and made other parts up. Chocolate helps when tension mounts.
That could become a peace-keeping strategy.
Time here is winding down, digging ends Friday (and Ramadan begins!), people will be leaving right and left come 2/3rd Sept. Folks hold on in their own ways. I realized I never got to watch any Olympics - it makes me sad. And also that I keep not downloading photos, it's on the list to do I swear! (Although because of publication rights I can't post any of the site itself, so you'll have to see them in person if you're interested).
One cool project also mostly completed was my looking at over 40 pages of references to make them stylistically consistent. A big editing job, but I'm glad to have it done (I'm always wary these things will make their way back to me somehow - dealing with 2003-04 objects taught me that lesson already). I also learned the word for "publisher" in a couple languages, for example 'verlag' is German. Just to add to the bag of tricks I suppose.
Two days ago a girl here asked me "Are you really an English teacher?", her voice incredulous. I assured her that I'm just as, if not more so, goofy in class as I am often here. Can't believe I'll be going back to that in just a few weeks, although the plan to head back stateside is still going strong.
Other news of note was that I made some incredible brownies too - rich and gooey. Was proud considering I approximated some things and made other parts up. Chocolate helps when tension mounts.
That could become a peace-keeping strategy.
Tuesday, August 19, 2008
Syria? Yeah, I've been there.
Last Friday we escaped the compound (an intrepid group of 15) on a bus to Syria that we've gotten in what seemed to be a sweet deal with a tour company. The deal soured quickly, much to everyone's chagrin, as what was supposed to be included kept magically disappearing. Lesson learned - get mega-specific details BEFORE crossing borders.
Still, we went to Ebla (HUMONGOUS site) that was the seat of a big empire back in the day(yes, I should be better about dates and all that stuff I'm learning. It's late though). And Aleppo, a wonderful city. Mike and I got dinner on the street for what turned out to be perhaps 2 dollars for us both - incredible ice cream for dessert and everything. Our hotel was gorgeous old complex house with courtyards and roof terrace that was perhaps for an evening drink and narguile with some of the crew. The next morning we went to the incredible National Museum (so many artifacts to see) where I found figurines that look like fragments I've been seeing here at Atchana (very cool). Afterwards Mike and I wandered the bazaar with Stella (she and I tried to bargain up a storm, she got some great deals too) and looked at the outside of the citadel (the problem with group things is the time limits). Then another loooong bus ride to the temple of Ain Dara (where there were huge footprints in the rock). And finally back over the border (the way to Syria we sat there a few hours, the way back was quicker).
Thus there were maybe 18 hours of real vacation involved in the two day break we had. Exhausting. To top things off, we're having a heat wave with no wind (terrible) and it saps motivation to do much of anything. Thus my lack of photos online... I'll get there. Eventually. My current job is editing/proofreading a massive manuscript and spending lots of time in front of the computer - I hope to get out to site before excavation ends next week! (Where does the time go?). Meanwhile sickness runs rampant and the quest for cool continues.
Still, we went to Ebla (HUMONGOUS site) that was the seat of a big empire back in the day(yes, I should be better about dates and all that stuff I'm learning. It's late though). And Aleppo, a wonderful city. Mike and I got dinner on the street for what turned out to be perhaps 2 dollars for us both - incredible ice cream for dessert and everything. Our hotel was gorgeous old complex house with courtyards and roof terrace that was perhaps for an evening drink and narguile with some of the crew. The next morning we went to the incredible National Museum (so many artifacts to see) where I found figurines that look like fragments I've been seeing here at Atchana (very cool). Afterwards Mike and I wandered the bazaar with Stella (she and I tried to bargain up a storm, she got some great deals too) and looked at the outside of the citadel (the problem with group things is the time limits). Then another loooong bus ride to the temple of Ain Dara (where there were huge footprints in the rock). And finally back over the border (the way to Syria we sat there a few hours, the way back was quicker).
Thus there were maybe 18 hours of real vacation involved in the two day break we had. Exhausting. To top things off, we're having a heat wave with no wind (terrible) and it saps motivation to do much of anything. Thus my lack of photos online... I'll get there. Eventually. My current job is editing/proofreading a massive manuscript and spending lots of time in front of the computer - I hope to get out to site before excavation ends next week! (Where does the time go?). Meanwhile sickness runs rampant and the quest for cool continues.
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Shot in the...
Somehow it's Saturday again. Saturdays mean sleeping in to 9 a.m. or even later - sheer decadence. Since I spend way too much time in front of the computer during working hours, I'm fighting my aversion now for another update.
Last Saturday I went into Antakya with Ferhat and Guzin for late afternoon. We went for food, wandered around the mysterious twistings of an older section and then ate Kunefe, this incredibly rich dessert that Hatay is known for. It's very good but I shouldn't have eaten a whole one - on top of our awesomely good dinner I was sick as a dog (literally and figuratively) afterwards. Even more thrilling was when we went to get the dolmush back to our village they'd stopped running - there was a bunch of our team members who'd also been in town for the day/evening there too, the company actually called another one to come and get us all half hour later - but an unfun ride for me trying not to vomit along the way (I was successful in that endeavor at least).
Monday Bike (pronounced Bee-kay) was going to see an eye doctor and I went along because my ear was getting worse again. After she did her thing at the eye clinic/hospital we went along to the private hospital of Antakya where all the girls who work the desks and assist the doctors wear green and white striped shirts and lots of makeup as well as look vaguely similar. The doctor there sent a camera down my ear, then a vacuum tube and water, then stuffed it full of gauze drenched in iodine. All in the space of 2 minutes. Ouch.
Apparently it was serious - not gravely but almost. The pharmacy provided me with a bunch of drugs including shots - yikes. Bike's dad is an ear, nose and throat specialist so she talked to him that evening to get a second opinion on what seemed an extreme treatment. He agreed and so I began the fun of shots twice a day of antibiotics for five days. That first night Mara on our team wielded the needle, but the following day and since I've had Barrati, the village handyman, as my shot-giver. He inoculates the village children and obviously knows what he's doing, which is a relief. 500 ml of antibiotic twice a day along with two kinds of ear drops and painkiller seem to be doing the trick, I have 2 shots left and then my hope is that this ear will actually stay open instead of teasing as it's been doing. I've been striving to take care of myself and get lots of sleep, all that jazz... I'm not a patient patient.
What's nice though is that so many people care. And are entertained by my injections (which is silly). A little tiny bit of gold has been discovered on site, squares are fighting to find features in some, others to make sense of the seeming mess they have in front of them. I've learned about Cypriot pottery from Ekin, our expert, as I helped her enter data and proof-read a paper she'd written. Drama continues but at a minimum (seemingly), now I'm here wondering what to do with the swiftly disappearing free hours I have left for today. Perhaps I'll venture to the museum in Antakya, work up the energy for farther afield once I'm whole again. At least the Turkish is coming along bit by bit - the young ladies that wash bones and pottery chatter with us in the mornings in a mix of English and Turkish, so that's helping a bunch too. Once again one has to be an utter fool to survive.
Last Saturday I went into Antakya with Ferhat and Guzin for late afternoon. We went for food, wandered around the mysterious twistings of an older section and then ate Kunefe, this incredibly rich dessert that Hatay is known for. It's very good but I shouldn't have eaten a whole one - on top of our awesomely good dinner I was sick as a dog (literally and figuratively) afterwards. Even more thrilling was when we went to get the dolmush back to our village they'd stopped running - there was a bunch of our team members who'd also been in town for the day/evening there too, the company actually called another one to come and get us all half hour later - but an unfun ride for me trying not to vomit along the way (I was successful in that endeavor at least).
Monday Bike (pronounced Bee-kay) was going to see an eye doctor and I went along because my ear was getting worse again. After she did her thing at the eye clinic/hospital we went along to the private hospital of Antakya where all the girls who work the desks and assist the doctors wear green and white striped shirts and lots of makeup as well as look vaguely similar. The doctor there sent a camera down my ear, then a vacuum tube and water, then stuffed it full of gauze drenched in iodine. All in the space of 2 minutes. Ouch.
Apparently it was serious - not gravely but almost. The pharmacy provided me with a bunch of drugs including shots - yikes. Bike's dad is an ear, nose and throat specialist so she talked to him that evening to get a second opinion on what seemed an extreme treatment. He agreed and so I began the fun of shots twice a day of antibiotics for five days. That first night Mara on our team wielded the needle, but the following day and since I've had Barrati, the village handyman, as my shot-giver. He inoculates the village children and obviously knows what he's doing, which is a relief. 500 ml of antibiotic twice a day along with two kinds of ear drops and painkiller seem to be doing the trick, I have 2 shots left and then my hope is that this ear will actually stay open instead of teasing as it's been doing. I've been striving to take care of myself and get lots of sleep, all that jazz... I'm not a patient patient.
What's nice though is that so many people care. And are entertained by my injections (which is silly). A little tiny bit of gold has been discovered on site, squares are fighting to find features in some, others to make sense of the seeming mess they have in front of them. I've learned about Cypriot pottery from Ekin, our expert, as I helped her enter data and proof-read a paper she'd written. Drama continues but at a minimum (seemingly), now I'm here wondering what to do with the swiftly disappearing free hours I have left for today. Perhaps I'll venture to the museum in Antakya, work up the energy for farther afield once I'm whole again. At least the Turkish is coming along bit by bit - the young ladies that wash bones and pottery chatter with us in the mornings in a mix of English and Turkish, so that's helping a bunch too. Once again one has to be an utter fool to survive.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Some photos
I had a mini-break, here are some photos from the dig camera to give some ambiance - a little on site, our compound during last Friday's fiesta. I'll take more soon, promise.
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Now that's an earful!
It's been a week now - where has the time gone? Friday we visited neighboring Tayinat site (our site is cooler and we could totally take them in a fight even if there are more of them. Adam said "There's a great view of Atchana" when Mike asked how our visit had been.) Their crew came over to our compound for a cookout/fiesta. Yummy burritos and chili and grill - here's Ferhat on the right (my boss man) setting things up with Murat, our fiercely competent site manager.
On Saturday we had an excursion to the seaside after visiting the beginnings of a new site (it was on what was the coast and start of a river delta). Our lunch of yummy salads and grilled fish was the very thing before going to play in the water. It was dirty but the sea looked so appealing I and several others decided what the hey and jumped in anyway - totally fabulous. Just nice to float for awhile and I didn't even get that sunburned! (Just a little, not a surprise).
But on Sunday I awoke with my ear pounding and it got worse throughout the day. So a trip to the local emergency room made it on the agenda for Monday (since a trip to town was planned for then anyway). I had the lovely Guzen to translate for me as well as Ezgi (our conservator who was also sick) and away we went after lunch, some others along for other errands as well. Got to the hospital and found man behind the glass who checks people in. I don't have a health card so had to show my passport. And explain my name, give my parents' names as well. When we got the printout it showed they'd taken away my last name - I'm now Bethan Erin - and Turkified "Andrew" into something else. Another window let us pay (since I'm not a citizen don't have free meds) and then we went to wait. The doctors would be there at 4 we'd been told (it was about five till). At 4:15 we're contemplating breaking people's legs in order to get to a place to be served. Ezgi went in and got looked at, then I get called.
The doctor picks up probe to look in my ear and it falls apart when he tries to attach the plastic piece that will go into the canal. So we have to go out of curtained cubicle #1 to wait and see if can get into another one. #3 has an already broken instrument as well. And #2 has a large man sprawled across a bed but they rouse him after awhile, put him in #1 and there I am now with a new doctor. I get asked for the second time if I have a fever - I don't know - but they don't take my temp. After the pain of having my ear probed, twisted and torqued I'm told I have an outer ear infection. We make sure there's no penicillin in the prescription meds, then leave to find a nearby pharmacy. The man there marks my boxes of drugs with slashes and lines to indicate frequency and dosage before or after eating. Pretty cool. The adventure rounds out by finding the menfolk we'd dropped for personal shopping, going to a big supermarket for the general supplies as well as getting personal items (I now own Priates of the Caribbean flip flops since the puppies (guard dogs in training) here chewed on my others). Chocolate with pistachios inside fueled our trip home. And the craziest part - my hospital visit AND drugs was under $30.
Now I'm feeling more human and hope to hear properly soon. Yesterday Ferhat and I went to site and I finally got to see where all these things I've been recording come from. We started out in a far square, were shown around and then got to help out picking away a thin layer as the workers went to the next level. Hot work in the sun (yay for longer sleeves) and I found bones, pottery sherds. And flint! Nuri, the supervisor who's a bit of a clown, regularly came over and yelled "work! work!" at me. We were there two hours, I'd no idea of time passing. The workers didn't want us to leave but we rambled up and around to all the squares seeing what's going on. There's a lot of dirt. And some very cool things - I'll take my camera next time and post more photos. The set up for a square is a supervisor and usually an assistant, then 5 or so local workers. I want to know more Turkish - now that my brain seems to be settled I can work on that a bit more. I think that Ferhat just wanted to keep me sane after two days of entering in records from 2004 - today I attached photos to some of them. I'm developing a grudge against Access, but you work with what you've got. Here's hoping my ears decide to become normal soon!
On Saturday we had an excursion to the seaside after visiting the beginnings of a new site (it was on what was the coast and start of a river delta). Our lunch of yummy salads and grilled fish was the very thing before going to play in the water. It was dirty but the sea looked so appealing I and several others decided what the hey and jumped in anyway - totally fabulous. Just nice to float for awhile and I didn't even get that sunburned! (Just a little, not a surprise).
But on Sunday I awoke with my ear pounding and it got worse throughout the day. So a trip to the local emergency room made it on the agenda for Monday (since a trip to town was planned for then anyway). I had the lovely Guzen to translate for me as well as Ezgi (our conservator who was also sick) and away we went after lunch, some others along for other errands as well. Got to the hospital and found man behind the glass who checks people in. I don't have a health card so had to show my passport. And explain my name, give my parents' names as well. When we got the printout it showed they'd taken away my last name - I'm now Bethan Erin - and Turkified "Andrew" into something else. Another window let us pay (since I'm not a citizen don't have free meds) and then we went to wait. The doctors would be there at 4 we'd been told (it was about five till). At 4:15 we're contemplating breaking people's legs in order to get to a place to be served. Ezgi went in and got looked at, then I get called.
The doctor picks up probe to look in my ear and it falls apart when he tries to attach the plastic piece that will go into the canal. So we have to go out of curtained cubicle #1 to wait and see if can get into another one. #3 has an already broken instrument as well. And #2 has a large man sprawled across a bed but they rouse him after awhile, put him in #1 and there I am now with a new doctor. I get asked for the second time if I have a fever - I don't know - but they don't take my temp. After the pain of having my ear probed, twisted and torqued I'm told I have an outer ear infection. We make sure there's no penicillin in the prescription meds, then leave to find a nearby pharmacy. The man there marks my boxes of drugs with slashes and lines to indicate frequency and dosage before or after eating. Pretty cool. The adventure rounds out by finding the menfolk we'd dropped for personal shopping, going to a big supermarket for the general supplies as well as getting personal items (I now own Priates of the Caribbean flip flops since the puppies (guard dogs in training) here chewed on my others). Chocolate with pistachios inside fueled our trip home. And the craziest part - my hospital visit AND drugs was under $30.
Now I'm feeling more human and hope to hear properly soon. Yesterday Ferhat and I went to site and I finally got to see where all these things I've been recording come from. We started out in a far square, were shown around and then got to help out picking away a thin layer as the workers went to the next level. Hot work in the sun (yay for longer sleeves) and I found bones, pottery sherds. And flint! Nuri, the supervisor who's a bit of a clown, regularly came over and yelled "work! work!" at me. We were there two hours, I'd no idea of time passing. The workers didn't want us to leave but we rambled up and around to all the squares seeing what's going on. There's a lot of dirt. And some very cool things - I'll take my camera next time and post more photos. The set up for a square is a supervisor and usually an assistant, then 5 or so local workers. I want to know more Turkish - now that my brain seems to be settled I can work on that a bit more. I think that Ferhat just wanted to keep me sane after two days of entering in records from 2004 - today I attached photos to some of them. I'm developing a grudge against Access, but you work with what you've got. Here's hoping my ears decide to become normal soon!
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Look ma there's Syria or I'm in Turkey!
I made it to the Alalakh dig in the weesmalls of Tuesday morning. Leaving Belgrade went ok except that I felt gross with stuffy head and general achey-ness. Hung out for many hours in the domestic terminal of Istanbul airport reading during my layover before 22:55 flight to Hatay. I wasn't sure if there'd be anyone there since never got a confirmation to my emails, but after helping a Ecuadorian film-maker with her bags and chatting with a police officer in English I saw a man with my name on a sign. Huzzah! We drove down the deserted roads out into the middle of nowhere Turkey speaking a mix of Turkish, English, and German as he told me about where we were going, asked me questions and tried to answer mine. We arrived to the dig compound at 2 a.m. and I was shown a bed, quickly got into it.
People were up and moving to go to site at 5 a.m. so I got up with them, looked for someone in charge to tell me what the heck I was supposed to do. Murat, our general man with a plan, told me to sleep more and not worry. Easy enough. Mike was also sick with heatstroke, so got to chat with him a bit as well (he's better now). Found Aslihan (our fearless director, she hides out in this little office that wasn't too hard to find) and she told me what was going on, gave me the grand tour of the compound, and then handed me over to Ferhat, my new leader.
My job here is assisting (or being a minion) to Ferhat, the recorder of the excavation. That means that he looks at all the objects and writes up what they are, then I type the sheets into the database. He's into heavy metal, has long black ponytail down his back, studied American Lit for his BA, is totally fearsome and laughs at things I say. We get on well. Except that I type too fast and keep finishing up the little amount of work they have for me (there's this database backlog project that looms but we're running into technical glitches that I can't fix so I keep not having it to do). Thus I made coffee yesterday in the morning, today entered all the conservator's data from this season... and am writing this as he looks at more objects so I can enter them soon. He even let me switch the music from metal to a mix on my ipod - apparently I'm liked and accepted. Which is awesome.
The tone of the dig is relaxed and long. Field crew leaves about 5:15-30 in the morning, we house crew (since stay at the dig house compound here where we also all sleep and eat) start around 6 (or so). There's first breakfast then, 2nd breakfast at 8:30 (which reminds me of hobbits), we're working all morning with official coffeebreak at 11ish. Field crew gets back and we all lunch at 13:30, chill out until tea at 4ish, then back to work (others sort pottery, enter their data for the day or what have you - I do same kind of stuff regardless). Dinner is at 7:30, we've watched some cartoons one night, there are a bunch of movies that will debut soon too. People wander to bed starting around 10 and it begins again. I got my own bed yesterday - been using someone else's who was sleeping on the roof until some people left (their season had started way earlier), so now settled for real I suppose.
You can see Syria from the roof of the dig house - it's a mountain right there (20 km) after a heavily guarded border. The sky at night is gorgeous and starry as is watching the sunset over the mountains. I've not made it into Antakya yet (the city nearby), there's no reason yet and the massive amount of sun means this girl stays in the shade a whole bunch.
Speaking of which, I should go and get those records recorded before lunch (to justify my "slacking" right now). It's a good place and I'm glad to be here (and already making jokes like the box that contains "non-artifacts" (a response to the pottery expert's box of artifacts which are pieces of stone that are worked but have no context because they come from the gravel in the compound, thus are no good for us)). Look at me learning.
People were up and moving to go to site at 5 a.m. so I got up with them, looked for someone in charge to tell me what the heck I was supposed to do. Murat, our general man with a plan, told me to sleep more and not worry. Easy enough. Mike was also sick with heatstroke, so got to chat with him a bit as well (he's better now). Found Aslihan (our fearless director, she hides out in this little office that wasn't too hard to find) and she told me what was going on, gave me the grand tour of the compound, and then handed me over to Ferhat, my new leader.
My job here is assisting (or being a minion) to Ferhat, the recorder of the excavation. That means that he looks at all the objects and writes up what they are, then I type the sheets into the database. He's into heavy metal, has long black ponytail down his back, studied American Lit for his BA, is totally fearsome and laughs at things I say. We get on well. Except that I type too fast and keep finishing up the little amount of work they have for me (there's this database backlog project that looms but we're running into technical glitches that I can't fix so I keep not having it to do). Thus I made coffee yesterday in the morning, today entered all the conservator's data from this season... and am writing this as he looks at more objects so I can enter them soon. He even let me switch the music from metal to a mix on my ipod - apparently I'm liked and accepted. Which is awesome.
The tone of the dig is relaxed and long. Field crew leaves about 5:15-30 in the morning, we house crew (since stay at the dig house compound here where we also all sleep and eat) start around 6 (or so). There's first breakfast then, 2nd breakfast at 8:30 (which reminds me of hobbits), we're working all morning with official coffeebreak at 11ish. Field crew gets back and we all lunch at 13:30, chill out until tea at 4ish, then back to work (others sort pottery, enter their data for the day or what have you - I do same kind of stuff regardless). Dinner is at 7:30, we've watched some cartoons one night, there are a bunch of movies that will debut soon too. People wander to bed starting around 10 and it begins again. I got my own bed yesterday - been using someone else's who was sleeping on the roof until some people left (their season had started way earlier), so now settled for real I suppose.
You can see Syria from the roof of the dig house - it's a mountain right there (20 km) after a heavily guarded border. The sky at night is gorgeous and starry as is watching the sunset over the mountains. I've not made it into Antakya yet (the city nearby), there's no reason yet and the massive amount of sun means this girl stays in the shade a whole bunch.
Speaking of which, I should go and get those records recorded before lunch (to justify my "slacking" right now). It's a good place and I'm glad to be here (and already making jokes like the box that contains "non-artifacts" (a response to the pottery expert's box of artifacts which are pieces of stone that are worked but have no context because they come from the gravel in the compound, thus are no good for us)). Look at me learning.
Tuesday, June 3, 2008
B-town and beyond
Yes, it's been a crazy few weeks. Totally true statement.
Oh wait, you say, what a surprise! I mean, Bethany actually busy? GASP!
Been enjoying my time stateside even if things didn't always go as planned. I got to party in the pre-wedding festivities for Munirih and Krishna (my cousin and her new husband) on Friday night (and got sweet henna "tattoo" on my hand and arm). Then came the joy of thunderstorms and tornadoes between me and where I wanted to go, so Mike and I simply got up WAY early on Saturday to drive to Spencer for Michael D's graduation - egads! The ceremony was short and the longest speaker funny although one does tire of "this isn't an end, but a new beginning" speech that is obligatory at every single graduation ceremony. Still, the open house party was fun afterwards - (what do you call a bar that isn't yours? nacho bar!) and sleeping that evening also a joy. As always I strive to find that balance between family, friends, and rest
Just watched this clip about McCain - as elections heat up past the high simmer they are on currently it's curious to see how people have, shall we say, changed. (On that note, I'm off to renew my driver's license - woohoo for new photos.)
Monday, May 19, 2008
Hither, thither and yon
There and back again (as a famous hobbit once said). My dad (a.k.a. Bear) came to visit these past 10 days and it was marvelous, wonderful and all those other superlatives you can think of. Including busy. The saga began with lost luggage (fortunately it wasn't his clothes but a present for a friend of mine), continued with complications with getting back to the airport the next day to fly to Italy. Thankfully everything worked itself out and thus we could dedicate ourselves to walking.
And walking.
Did I mention we walked a lot? Finally got to see inside of St. Marco's church - splendidly beautiful. Bear had the camera, so when he posts photos I'll link them here. Reading Ruskin's The Stones of Venice also gave added insight. A full couple of days, but glad that we got to adventure in two countries (taking almost every form of transport possible during the course of the jaunt: car, plane, boat, train, bus & foot. What did we miss?)
Belgrade adventures included lots of meat (no surprise there), walking (ditto), and meeting friends (who now understand that my craziness isn't a total accident). I'm becoming quite the tour guide, if I could figure out how to make a business from it I totally would (and then I'd have work here in the summer! What a novel idea!). We even got to mosey around Museum night Saturday - my third one in a row! - mostly to watch the people, although there was also some great art.
Sunday we went with Cassie to Topola (driven by Miša who's quite the character himself), got to see the gorgeous church (mosaics were a theme of this visit) and sites connected to royal family. Our luck held as we left the last museum just as THREE tour buses pulled up filled with elementary school kids on excursions. Lunch at roadside restaurant contained perhaps equal parts grease and meat (although still good), and once again we were lucky with the slow service since it meant we avoided the major HAIL storm that blew through Beograd and left lots of wreckage (gushing waterfalls, large chunks of ice everywhere, tree limbs down, things broken).
This morning had us up at 4:30 (after a late night over last drinks of hot chocolate with Julia and Uroš at Bre cafe), but we made it to the airport for his 6:45 flight. Woohoo! I'll be heading back to Indiana myself next Tuesday, 27 May. Time is flying like mad... must be spring for real.
And walking.
Did I mention we walked a lot? Finally got to see inside of St. Marco's church - splendidly beautiful. Bear had the camera, so when he posts photos I'll link them here. Reading Ruskin's The Stones of Venice also gave added insight. A full couple of days, but glad that we got to adventure in two countries (taking almost every form of transport possible during the course of the jaunt: car, plane, boat, train, bus & foot. What did we miss?)
Belgrade adventures included lots of meat (no surprise there), walking (ditto), and meeting friends (who now understand that my craziness isn't a total accident). I'm becoming quite the tour guide, if I could figure out how to make a business from it I totally would (and then I'd have work here in the summer! What a novel idea!). We even got to mosey around Museum night Saturday - my third one in a row! - mostly to watch the people, although there was also some great art.
Sunday we went with Cassie to Topola (driven by Miša who's quite the character himself), got to see the gorgeous church (mosaics were a theme of this visit) and sites connected to royal family. Our luck held as we left the last museum just as THREE tour buses pulled up filled with elementary school kids on excursions. Lunch at roadside restaurant contained perhaps equal parts grease and meat (although still good), and once again we were lucky with the slow service since it meant we avoided the major HAIL storm that blew through Beograd and left lots of wreckage (gushing waterfalls, large chunks of ice everywhere, tree limbs down, things broken).
This morning had us up at 4:30 (after a late night over last drinks of hot chocolate with Julia and Uroš at Bre cafe), but we made it to the airport for his 6:45 flight. Woohoo! I'll be heading back to Indiana myself next Tuesday, 27 May. Time is flying like mad... must be spring for real.
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Kiev - a few more details
I'll try and make this amusing, yet brief.
Branko and I traveled together to Kiev on 22 April, eating little meals from different shaped trays (triangles, squares, rectangles all had their turns). We decided too that Ukrainian Airlines had better uniforms than Austrian. Our driver met us at airport, sign in hand, and I was incredibly thankful that Branko could pull out his elementary school Russian because it's a heck of a sight more than I have. We made it to conference center, checked in and were given one room key. Eh? Just after unpacking Cassie knocked on the door with the other training staff behind her and told us that since we'd met that afternoon we weren't expected to stay together and would in fact both be moving in with different people. I had the lovely Liliya, the TA mentor, as my new roommate - we found ourselves chatting a ton as the week went on, even having our neighbor come and knock on our door because being "too loud" in the evening (the walls were perhaps a bit thicker than paper but not by much).
The conference was by American Councils to train teachers to run orientations for high schoolers who've won a scholarship to go and live in the US for a year. Branko and I represented Serbia, there were others from Ukraine, Georgia, Moldova and Armenia. Most of the teachers were Peace Corps volunteers; Sean (doing a Fulbright) and I were "Hard core" since were were the only non PCVs. Learned a bunch, got to tryout teaching with Branko and went well, there was silliness and a bunch of walks whenever I could find a free 15 or 20 minutes - having my day totally programmed was totally bizarre. As was 8 a.m. breakfast.
On the last day (Saturday) after photos and goodbyes, the Georgian and Serbian representatives went to a hotel in city center since we had later planes to catch. It took four people to get me checked into the hotel - my name doesn't transliterate into cyrillic easily and I still don't speak Russian or Ukrainian... Martha and I took a walk to the gorgeous churches, then down St. Andrew's street - Cassie had told us we could find eggs and other souvenirs there, lots of little stalls with almost anything you could think of. But no postcards (I looked all around never found any). We met up with the others staying at hotel and some Ukraine PCVs who had later trains to catch to get a little walking tour, go to dinner at a buffet restaurant with cheap traditional food (better than hotel catering for sure). We were thrown out a bit after 7 since they were closing early (Orthodox Easter was the next day), they just started turning off lights. Wandered a bit more, then had a few drinks in beer tent equidistant between the two churches I took tons of photos of. Some thought to go to midnight service, but I headed back for some sleep with idea of early rising and walking some more.
Sunday (Easter) had me meeting Martha at 7:15 a.m. (YIKES!!!) and going to explore some more. My favorite thing was this incredible building across from the president's house - it was covered in stone animals for apparently no reason. We couldn't find out what it was but on drive to airport driver said that the architect was just a creative guy, president now uses it for receptions. Got back for breakfast, goodbyes and then picked up to head to airport. I asked Branko before we got into the car if he had wallet, passport, foreigner card - all there, we're good to go.
But... almost to airport Cassie asks us if we've got plane tickets. I do, but Branko says, "tickets?" He thinks he might have thrown them away thinking that we had e-tix or something; the poor guy hasn't flown much and apparently misunderstood when I'd said on the day we left how we'd get new boarding passes for return voyage. He starts digging through bag, our driver (who was very droll) is incredulous. At airport Branko ransacks bags on the curb, can't find tickets. We go inside and after talking to three windows finally get the Austrian Air ladies who say that they can't do anything with the reservation because of how it's ticketed. Cassie asks how we can get him back that day - we can buy another ticket. Meanwhile Branko is digging through his bags one last time and shouts "I found them!" Whew. Everyone laughs, all is well.
We go to check-in desk next, passing odd waiting line of customs. Cassie checks in, I do the same. Branko is now looking for his foreigner card (Cassie had handed it to him with some other papers from his passport when talking to airline humans) and realizes it's in his wallet. Which he can't find. Repeat the last 15 minutes - digging through bags, the stress, the irritation of doing something so boneheaded. He goes back to where we were (ticket and passport in hand so can get back in), can't find any trace. There's no lost and found for things at the airport, only luggage, and the check-in lady tells us he should get up to the counter since a team of 25 will be coming through shortly. The poor guy gives wallet up for lost and we manage to catch our plane without further mishap, even seeing famous Serbian musicians and a filmmaker in Vienna airport (we all have the same flight). Lesson learned - when stressed, never put down important documents unless they're in something you're carrying.
Alright, I wasn't brief. But hope you were at least a little amused. And looked at the photos... gorgeous place.
Branko and I traveled together to Kiev on 22 April, eating little meals from different shaped trays (triangles, squares, rectangles all had their turns). We decided too that Ukrainian Airlines had better uniforms than Austrian. Our driver met us at airport, sign in hand, and I was incredibly thankful that Branko could pull out his elementary school Russian because it's a heck of a sight more than I have. We made it to conference center, checked in and were given one room key. Eh? Just after unpacking Cassie knocked on the door with the other training staff behind her and told us that since we'd met that afternoon we weren't expected to stay together and would in fact both be moving in with different people. I had the lovely Liliya, the TA mentor, as my new roommate - we found ourselves chatting a ton as the week went on, even having our neighbor come and knock on our door because being "too loud" in the evening (the walls were perhaps a bit thicker than paper but not by much).
The conference was by American Councils to train teachers to run orientations for high schoolers who've won a scholarship to go and live in the US for a year. Branko and I represented Serbia, there were others from Ukraine, Georgia, Moldova and Armenia. Most of the teachers were Peace Corps volunteers; Sean (doing a Fulbright) and I were "Hard core" since were were the only non PCVs. Learned a bunch, got to tryout teaching with Branko and went well, there was silliness and a bunch of walks whenever I could find a free 15 or 20 minutes - having my day totally programmed was totally bizarre. As was 8 a.m. breakfast.
On the last day (Saturday) after photos and goodbyes, the Georgian and Serbian representatives went to a hotel in city center since we had later planes to catch. It took four people to get me checked into the hotel - my name doesn't transliterate into cyrillic easily and I still don't speak Russian or Ukrainian... Martha and I took a walk to the gorgeous churches, then down St. Andrew's street - Cassie had told us we could find eggs and other souvenirs there, lots of little stalls with almost anything you could think of. But no postcards (I looked all around never found any). We met up with the others staying at hotel and some Ukraine PCVs who had later trains to catch to get a little walking tour, go to dinner at a buffet restaurant with cheap traditional food (better than hotel catering for sure). We were thrown out a bit after 7 since they were closing early (Orthodox Easter was the next day), they just started turning off lights. Wandered a bit more, then had a few drinks in beer tent equidistant between the two churches I took tons of photos of. Some thought to go to midnight service, but I headed back for some sleep with idea of early rising and walking some more.
Sunday (Easter) had me meeting Martha at 7:15 a.m. (YIKES!!!) and going to explore some more. My favorite thing was this incredible building across from the president's house - it was covered in stone animals for apparently no reason. We couldn't find out what it was but on drive to airport driver said that the architect was just a creative guy, president now uses it for receptions. Got back for breakfast, goodbyes and then picked up to head to airport. I asked Branko before we got into the car if he had wallet, passport, foreigner card - all there, we're good to go.
But... almost to airport Cassie asks us if we've got plane tickets. I do, but Branko says, "tickets?" He thinks he might have thrown them away thinking that we had e-tix or something; the poor guy hasn't flown much and apparently misunderstood when I'd said on the day we left how we'd get new boarding passes for return voyage. He starts digging through bag, our driver (who was very droll) is incredulous. At airport Branko ransacks bags on the curb, can't find tickets. We go inside and after talking to three windows finally get the Austrian Air ladies who say that they can't do anything with the reservation because of how it's ticketed. Cassie asks how we can get him back that day - we can buy another ticket. Meanwhile Branko is digging through his bags one last time and shouts "I found them!" Whew. Everyone laughs, all is well.
We go to check-in desk next, passing odd waiting line of customs. Cassie checks in, I do the same. Branko is now looking for his foreigner card (Cassie had handed it to him with some other papers from his passport when talking to airline humans) and realizes it's in his wallet. Which he can't find. Repeat the last 15 minutes - digging through bags, the stress, the irritation of doing something so boneheaded. He goes back to where we were (ticket and passport in hand so can get back in), can't find any trace. There's no lost and found for things at the airport, only luggage, and the check-in lady tells us he should get up to the counter since a team of 25 will be coming through shortly. The poor guy gives wallet up for lost and we manage to catch our plane without further mishap, even seeing famous Serbian musicians and a filmmaker in Vienna airport (we all have the same flight). Lesson learned - when stressed, never put down important documents unless they're in something you're carrying.
Alright, I wasn't brief. But hope you were at least a little amused. And looked at the photos... gorgeous place.
Friday, May 2, 2008
Ukraine, the quick run down
As some of you know I was in Kiev (Kyiv) Ukraine here recently for a training conference with American Councils. As per usual, I met a whole host of dynamic and interesting people, learned things, and generally enjoyed. Looking forward to working on the orientations themselves end of June.
Learned a bunch from Branko as well, my colleague, including the important travel lesson of knowing where all of your documents are at all times. And to be wary of passing attacks by people with baseball bats. Or vampires - take your pick. I couldn't believe it myself :)
Learned a bunch from Branko as well, my colleague, including the important travel lesson of knowing where all of your documents are at all times. And to be wary of passing attacks by people with baseball bats. Or vampires - take your pick. I couldn't believe it myself :)
Monday, April 7, 2008
Saturday, April 5, 2008
No Death in Venice
Listening to my father's words, I did not die in Venice, allowing me to escape the fate of having parallels made between me and Thomas Mann (a blessing for sure). Although redheaded men currently do play a leading role in my life, I had no contact with any whilst there this time.
The rest of my trip involved lots of history - I visited at least a museum a day. Tuesday was an exhibition about Romans and Barbarians where I wished they had better (or at least a big more descriptive) labeling. Wednesday began with the Dodge's Palace and all its splendor. The waiting room covered in maps with two large globes (one of the earth, other of the heavens) really struck me as did the enormous chamber where the Grand Council would meet. My ticket got me into a few other museums so I decided to take advantage. That afternoon I headed to Museo Correr (which focuses on history of the Venetian republic) and enjoyed a globe exhibition - incredible details and art from so long ago. Attached was also the Archaeological Museum and rooms in the National library (now exhibition space). I was glad there was so much as a thunderstorm blew in maybe a half hour after I'd entered, allowing me to peruse at leisure the overwhelming richness therein. When not only the walls but ceilings are covered in art it can get a bit too much. I'll not drone on about the cool statues, etc. I saw but if you go to Venice it's worth the visit. Thursday afternooon brought me to Ca'Pesaro, a modern art museum that also houses an oriental/Asian art and artifact collection. I was glad to rest my eyes on something more familiar and not drenched in history that I don't know much about.
Met some more artists when I tried to find Stefan (the Bulgarian painter) again. The address I had wasn't the place I was looking for but another gallery instead. Thus I got to meet a woman who does striking things mixing cloth, paint and transferring photographs over top. I did manage to locate him and the others too, making new acquaintances in the process. Roamed around a bunch, ate gelatto, and hung out with Pia and company late in the evenings. A good balance of work and play overall. Thursday night we went out to meet some of her acquaintances - a few girls were from Belgrade and confirmed this as truth by the first thing they asked me: "Where do you live in Beograd?" Location is everything, even when away from home I suppose. Also got to chat with a great guy from Chad in French (huzzah), it was nice to be free once more in a foreign tongue. It was a fun last night but getting home in the wee smalls and then chatting more made our planned departure time on Friday of 10 a.m. impossible. Instead took a more leisurely time, had one last cappuccino with Pia in the square by the apartment (here we are below), and then hit the road (well, the valporetto that took us to the road).
Swung through Trieste - wish that had more time to visit there, it was simply gorgeous with the coast in the sun - and continued the drive back home. But took longer than planned (stopping to eat helped that) so I didn't get to my apartment until 1 a.m. And I had classes at 10 a.m. that morning (which I still had to prep). Still, I did it and survived (and slept a whole ton last night finally). In short a good trip where I learned a bunch. I'll post photos soon so you can enjoy the plethora of pretty old buildings that surrounded me for the past 10 days.
The rest of my trip involved lots of history - I visited at least a museum a day. Tuesday was an exhibition about Romans and Barbarians where I wished they had better (or at least a big more descriptive) labeling. Wednesday began with the Dodge's Palace and all its splendor. The waiting room covered in maps with two large globes (one of the earth, other of the heavens) really struck me as did the enormous chamber where the Grand Council would meet. My ticket got me into a few other museums so I decided to take advantage. That afternoon I headed to Museo Correr (which focuses on history of the Venetian republic) and enjoyed a globe exhibition - incredible details and art from so long ago. Attached was also the Archaeological Museum and rooms in the National library (now exhibition space). I was glad there was so much as a thunderstorm blew in maybe a half hour after I'd entered, allowing me to peruse at leisure the overwhelming richness therein. When not only the walls but ceilings are covered in art it can get a bit too much. I'll not drone on about the cool statues, etc. I saw but if you go to Venice it's worth the visit. Thursday afternooon brought me to Ca'Pesaro, a modern art museum that also houses an oriental/Asian art and artifact collection. I was glad to rest my eyes on something more familiar and not drenched in history that I don't know much about.
Met some more artists when I tried to find Stefan (the Bulgarian painter) again. The address I had wasn't the place I was looking for but another gallery instead. Thus I got to meet a woman who does striking things mixing cloth, paint and transferring photographs over top. I did manage to locate him and the others too, making new acquaintances in the process. Roamed around a bunch, ate gelatto, and hung out with Pia and company late in the evenings. A good balance of work and play overall. Thursday night we went out to meet some of her acquaintances - a few girls were from Belgrade and confirmed this as truth by the first thing they asked me: "Where do you live in Beograd?" Location is everything, even when away from home I suppose. Also got to chat with a great guy from Chad in French (huzzah), it was nice to be free once more in a foreign tongue. It was a fun last night but getting home in the wee smalls and then chatting more made our planned departure time on Friday of 10 a.m. impossible. Instead took a more leisurely time, had one last cappuccino with Pia in the square by the apartment (here we are below), and then hit the road (well, the valporetto that took us to the road).
Swung through Trieste - wish that had more time to visit there, it was simply gorgeous with the coast in the sun - and continued the drive back home. But took longer than planned (stopping to eat helped that) so I didn't get to my apartment until 1 a.m. And I had classes at 10 a.m. that morning (which I still had to prep). Still, I did it and survived (and slept a whole ton last night finally). In short a good trip where I learned a bunch. I'll post photos soon so you can enjoy the plethora of pretty old buildings that surrounded me for the past 10 days.
Monday, March 31, 2008
Venice... no, I don't speak Italian
Made it to Venice Weds, the trip was a long one (about 8 hours and the traffic outside of Venice didn't help) but finally made it, met Pia (a fabulous architecture student from Istria) and began the trek from the parking garage to boat to walking and walking to the apartment, right on Campo St. Maria Formosa. It's a lovely big square and extremely central. Dinner that night was our tourist trap experience (get that out of the way quickly I suppose), although tasty, and walking along the main canal was lovely in the darkness.
All that beauty begins to become a bit mundane after awhile, I'm sure. I caught myself today simply nodding over a canal that, had I seen the view a few days ago, would have been incredibly picturesque. Living in a postcard, that's what people do here.
Been exploring a lot, both alone and with Momcilo. I found a great little restaurant on Thursday tucked away near Rialdo bridge, we went for dinner that night and it was a fantastic time. Food was excellent, the place was warm and cosy (and full of Italians, always a good sign). Had cicchetti to start (like tapas), then great pasta and fish, homemade tiramisu for dessert. I've eaten more pasta in the past few days, but it's so good I can't help myself. Figure with all the walking I'm doing no harm will be done.
Friday night went out with Pia, her roommate Sara (from Ljubljana, also studying architecture) met up with us. First was a cozy little wine bar where outside seats are from a theater of some sort. Venice is totally no smoking inside, so we sat outside and enjoyed our glass together while chatting about this and that (the craziness of family is always a good starting point). Later went to a courtyard full of places near Rialdi teaming with people; everyone just stands outside and talks, many of the bars there have no space inside nor any seating. Met Igor (another from Serbia/Bosnia) and some others, lots of chatting in a funny mix of Serbo-Croatian, Italian, English.
Saturday went to Lido (after aborted trip to San Lorenzo - the monastery is only open in the afternoon for visitors), strolled along the beaches in the sun. I went around solo later on eating gelatto (sooo yummy), got a bit pink by the end. On the boat back talked a little with a woman who had met a Venetian and here she is with 2 kids, one 8, the other a baby. We both agreed about how life is full of surprising twists. In the evening I took myself out for a glass of wine and chatted with the bartender Andre (we'd met the night before). Ended up sharing champagne with a group of Italians (the girl had opened the bottle with a sword; most impressive), then talking with others who came and went at the bar. The funniest was a Bulgarian painter, his Italian friend and Swiss girlfriend. Stefan, the Bulgarian, was shocked that I could speak Serbian - he doesn't know English at all - so we were talking na srpskom, I was discussing nuance in French with the lady and getting insider information about Venice from the Italian in English. Crazy times, but a whole lot of fun.
Murano was my destination yesterday. Met a Iraqi vet and his family on the boat there - the man's leg was a graphic mess of scars from a roadside bomb as well as over a dozen surgeries. Originally he was told he'd lose the leg, then that he'd never walk again. But there he was only one crutch and a bit of a hobble. He said that now hard because doesn't know exactly what he'll do; he's always been a solider and plans to stay in the army. They were enjoying Venice so much though that they'd decided to stay instead of going to Rome as planned. I love this part of traveling solo, just touching people's stories is moving (unfortunately it seems to be moving me towards cliche, so I'll avoiding sweeping philosophy right now). Murano was cute and little, learned about glass in the museum - pieces from 1st century AD were INCREDIBLE to see. Strolled, got espresso in little bar with only minimal counters (one of the stand outside since there are no seats variety). Looked in a bunch of glass shops and realized that everything is made for people with houses- glass is not the nomadic possession. Also kitch abounds in incredible amounts.
I missed meeting up with the people from the night before since had class (yes, I am still working daily). Later in the evening Pia, Sara, their friend Ana (all three are blonde with one syllable names. Such a crew) met up with Momcilo and I, we went looking for a lively looking (or at least not totally dead) bar, talked and joked into the evening. There are so many tourist places here that actual places were locals gather are few; Venice is also not a night life kind of town.
Today was more wandering - I ran into the woman from the boat with the baby and she recommended my going to the Ghetto, so I checked that out. The sun is covered in a faint haze, but still I'm glad the rain is gone for now. Not sure plans for the rest of the week but between relaxing with good books, teaching, and wandering I'm sure to keep myself occupied....
All that beauty begins to become a bit mundane after awhile, I'm sure. I caught myself today simply nodding over a canal that, had I seen the view a few days ago, would have been incredibly picturesque. Living in a postcard, that's what people do here.
Been exploring a lot, both alone and with Momcilo. I found a great little restaurant on Thursday tucked away near Rialdo bridge, we went for dinner that night and it was a fantastic time. Food was excellent, the place was warm and cosy (and full of Italians, always a good sign). Had cicchetti to start (like tapas), then great pasta and fish, homemade tiramisu for dessert. I've eaten more pasta in the past few days, but it's so good I can't help myself. Figure with all the walking I'm doing no harm will be done.
Friday night went out with Pia, her roommate Sara (from Ljubljana, also studying architecture) met up with us. First was a cozy little wine bar where outside seats are from a theater of some sort. Venice is totally no smoking inside, so we sat outside and enjoyed our glass together while chatting about this and that (the craziness of family is always a good starting point). Later went to a courtyard full of places near Rialdi teaming with people; everyone just stands outside and talks, many of the bars there have no space inside nor any seating. Met Igor (another from Serbia/Bosnia) and some others, lots of chatting in a funny mix of Serbo-Croatian, Italian, English.
Saturday went to Lido (after aborted trip to San Lorenzo - the monastery is only open in the afternoon for visitors), strolled along the beaches in the sun. I went around solo later on eating gelatto (sooo yummy), got a bit pink by the end. On the boat back talked a little with a woman who had met a Venetian and here she is with 2 kids, one 8, the other a baby. We both agreed about how life is full of surprising twists. In the evening I took myself out for a glass of wine and chatted with the bartender Andre (we'd met the night before). Ended up sharing champagne with a group of Italians (the girl had opened the bottle with a sword; most impressive), then talking with others who came and went at the bar. The funniest was a Bulgarian painter, his Italian friend and Swiss girlfriend. Stefan, the Bulgarian, was shocked that I could speak Serbian - he doesn't know English at all - so we were talking na srpskom, I was discussing nuance in French with the lady and getting insider information about Venice from the Italian in English. Crazy times, but a whole lot of fun.
Murano was my destination yesterday. Met a Iraqi vet and his family on the boat there - the man's leg was a graphic mess of scars from a roadside bomb as well as over a dozen surgeries. Originally he was told he'd lose the leg, then that he'd never walk again. But there he was only one crutch and a bit of a hobble. He said that now hard because doesn't know exactly what he'll do; he's always been a solider and plans to stay in the army. They were enjoying Venice so much though that they'd decided to stay instead of going to Rome as planned. I love this part of traveling solo, just touching people's stories is moving (unfortunately it seems to be moving me towards cliche, so I'll avoiding sweeping philosophy right now). Murano was cute and little, learned about glass in the museum - pieces from 1st century AD were INCREDIBLE to see. Strolled, got espresso in little bar with only minimal counters (one of the stand outside since there are no seats variety). Looked in a bunch of glass shops and realized that everything is made for people with houses- glass is not the nomadic possession. Also kitch abounds in incredible amounts.
I missed meeting up with the people from the night before since had class (yes, I am still working daily). Later in the evening Pia, Sara, their friend Ana (all three are blonde with one syllable names. Such a crew) met up with Momcilo and I, we went looking for a lively looking (or at least not totally dead) bar, talked and joked into the evening. There are so many tourist places here that actual places were locals gather are few; Venice is also not a night life kind of town.
Today was more wandering - I ran into the woman from the boat with the baby and she recommended my going to the Ghetto, so I checked that out. The sun is covered in a faint haze, but still I'm glad the rain is gone for now. Not sure plans for the rest of the week but between relaxing with good books, teaching, and wandering I'm sure to keep myself occupied....
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