Easter

I spent Easter weekend (Catholic and Orthodox were on the same Sunday this year) in Valjevo with Milica, a colleague, and her family. It's a medium-sized town southwest of Belgrade, about hour and half by bus, pop. 100,000 or so. It was my first smaller town in Serbia and I had a great time. We went out the first evening to Brooka (cafe/bar) and I think I met most of Milica's high school class. The place was so full I didn't see the inside at all, everyone was standing outside and talking, talking. It was great also meeting so many members of Milica's family; everyone was completely welcoming (but that's what Serbia's known for after all). We spent time cafes along the river, walking around the town (there's still a section that looks quite Turk), hiking a little in the woods... it was good to get out of Belgrade just for a little while. Learned about local history, there are tons of statues and landmarks people were more than willing to explain. One local hero was supposed to be so tall he bathed his feet in the river when sitting at the top of a high hill; reminds me of Paul Bunyan stories a bit - based on a real person but myth now.

I also randomly met a family who'd been living in Chicago (cousins of Milica's friend Katarina who now lives in Italy). The nine year old daughter wowed a room of college graduates as she and I chatted about things like Harry Potter and jelly beans in totally American English. It was funny to hear the idioms and "like" every third word. The funny part was the English teachers who were green with envy - we all want to speak like a native. I have issues with my Serbian because no matter how fast I try to go it's still not to the level of my French or English (naturally) and it's irksome to drop into this inarticulate being na srpskom. But must practice and so I do (Valjevo was a definite immersion, my listening comprehension is light-years beyond where it was a month ago). Her little brother did an excellent performance of "what's cookin' good lookin'?" while lounging in a door frame (he's five, a complete clown).

Once again, the world is small.

I drove back to Belgrade with one of my students from Millian school. She and her husband are architects, turns out he designed the Belgrade Philharmonic and French Cultural Center, both really cool interior spaces. I've already said the world is small, so won't repeat myself. Again, I'm always thankful for the kindness of those I meet; it makes adventuring that much richer.

A fun Easter thing I learned was how eggs (jaje) work here. People dye them in mass quantities, often putting flowers or plants on them before to leave pictures. Then you crack eggs together, pointy side to pointy side, then flip them over. You don't want your egg to break (because then you loose). So always look for strong looking eggs. People bring them when visiting friends, family - lots and lots of eggs were eaten last week.

But they don't have jelly beans. No place is perfect afterall.