I'm totally validated once again in my talking to strangers. Last Monday I was walking after having lunch with Eric when I overheard two guys speaking in French and looking lost. So I asked them (en français) if they were lost and when learning they were looking for food I offered to take them for cevapcici since it was on my way anyway. Away we went, chatting to the restaurant and while they ate the glory that is cevap. Turns out they are half of a quartet, Quatuor Ebene, playing here as part of BEMUS (Belgrade World music festival). They said could give me tickets for concert the following night (which was classical) and they were playing jazz the night after in Movie Bar. Since my current existence has lots of free time, I was ready, willing, and able to go listen to gorgeous music.
Gorgeous it was. I took Uros (lots of others couldn't make it) and we sat in quite good seats left for us with a guard, listening to a dynamic program. You could feel the music and it was lovely beyond my expectations. Afterwards we found Raphael and Pierre and ended up going with them, the other two in the group and some French embassy types to dinner at this little French restaurant near the hall. Pierre and Uros got into an thick exchange of music and films, it was a meeting of like-minds that one rarely sees. Raphael joined in later a bit, also some people from French Cultural Center discussing politics and the region for over the past 30 years, drinking wine and generally enjoying. We laid plans to hang out the next day and play tourist guide, leaving with the general well-being that eating and music bring.
Wednesday afternoon after an impulse buy of jeans (woohoo!) Uros and I met Raphael (Pierre needed to rest so opted out) and walked up to St. Sava to look at the grandeur of the temple, then have a coffee and chat before strolling back down to center. Found out that the group will be touring in the US this coming March and will be in the Pacific NW (also Boston, NYC, Oklahoma City) so I'll try to see them there. And then we always have Paris - I love having new people to visit in places that I already love (as many of you know). That night we went to see the jazz set with Uros's friend Marko and afterwards ended up having drinks, singing along with the piano and jazz standards until 2 a.m. Then some of us went (after dropping off instruments at their hotel) for rakija at Triangle bar (it's always open, down near Julia's faculty). It was just a thrilling kind of fun that one gets from talking with people who are interesting and interested in similar things (art's big, also language). We got some burek after the drinks and hung out some more - Uros and I were walking home at 6 a.m. completely content with life. He (thankfully) had lessons at 1, I wasn't working at all so no real worries there. Promises to keep in touch were exchanged, now to see if those promises sustain (I've become cynical about such things, especially in recent weeks).
This whole French connection (and oh, wasn't it grand to be speaking French again) once again showed me things I love about my life here in Belgrade, but also that the upcoming transitions will be helped because I talk to, oh, basically anyone. This week I also got to meet Uros's sister (finally!), we all had lunch. I met some of Dragana's journalist friends, have been baking a bunch, and listening to lots of music way loud in Uros's flat. Packing will begin tomorrow... yes. Tomorrow. Thankfully the highs are high enough they can carry me through the next few days and the parts of the past month that have been less than stellar.
Showing posts with label Beogradjanka life. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Beogradjanka life. Show all posts
Saturday, October 11, 2008
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
Remember that time...
Remember when the US economy decided that a nose dive wasn't enough; no, no, it needed to roll down the hill of economic decline at top speed. If I was into theories I'd say it's because I'm moving back to the US. And will be job hunting.... oh glory.
Got my ticket to San Fran - 15 October I'll be there. Was in Novi Pazar last week exploring some of southern Serbia (accompanying Casse on a business trip). Some fortress ruins, old mosques and churches, a grandiose hotel that looked like a honeycomb and a spaceship mushed together - definitely different. And a long car ride through gorgeous mountains. As always, my photos are behind my writings, but I'll get there. Promise.
Now reading a bunch, teaching less. Ran into old friends on the street yesterday - they were having coffee and I joined. I like the small big cityness of Belgrade, something I'll miss. T minus 15 days and counting I suppose. Bizarre.
Got my ticket to San Fran - 15 October I'll be there. Was in Novi Pazar last week exploring some of southern Serbia (accompanying Casse on a business trip). Some fortress ruins, old mosques and churches, a grandiose hotel that looked like a honeycomb and a spaceship mushed together - definitely different. And a long car ride through gorgeous mountains. As always, my photos are behind my writings, but I'll get there. Promise.
Now reading a bunch, teaching less. Ran into old friends on the street yesterday - they were having coffee and I joined. I like the small big cityness of Belgrade, something I'll miss. T minus 15 days and counting I suppose. Bizarre.
Friday, June 13, 2008
A study in embassies
So, as some of you know, I'm all set up to go on this dig in Turkey this summer. Everything's pretty much in order, I'll just wrap up classes and these orientations in the next few weeks and then fly out. All I need to do (famous last words) is get my research visa from the embassy. Since I requested it be sent to Serbian embassy, I went on Tuesday to go and pick it up after being told by dig director they had been released a few weeks before.
To give some context, that same afternoon I went to the US embassy to get additional pages put into my passport (I've run out of complete blanks thanks to Ukraine entry/exit stamps, so figured it was best to have virgin pages for this Turkish visa). My appointment was for 3, after going through the security check, leaving cellphone and ipod behind I penetrate the consular section. Security guy there (after going through a door labeled exit at the a narrow stairway) asks my name, there is no one at the check-in desk so he tells me to go sit down and wait for my name to be called. I go, I sit (I listen to directions).
After maybe 10 minutes I find a person through the thick plate glass of one of the windows (it's like a high security bank with numbered teller windows) and they "check me in". A disembodied voice announces who needs to go where, directing people to both payment kiosk and other places for papers. I'm the only one whose announcement is in English, give a lady my passport through a little slot along with paperwork I've filled out, told to wait. I'd called Eric beforehand, he actually is able to make it down and find me, so we while away the time chatting a bit in the completely sterile white environment with blue plastic chairs. The whole passport thing takes maybe 45 minutes, my visiting a bit longer.
I then head to Turkish embassy, a building I pass daily. This isn't the high security edifice of my compatriots. There's a metal detector when I walk in the door but no security guard to man it. I make my way up worn marble steps to a glassed in waiting area with a door that gives access to the rest of the main hall (the building is an old one with interesting marble tile work and period motifs on the walls and ceiling). There are two chairs, a desk that faces the window with a phone on it and a little tiny slot to desk on opposite side (where the embassy types roam free).
Because I've been verbose I won't go into excruciating detail but it takes me 15 minutes to convince the people that I do need a visa because it's for research. They take my papers with information about director, project, etc, leave, come back, leave again. One man comes through the door and tells me that he is not allowed to leave because of me (what can you say to that?). Finally I'm told they have nothing for me, I need to call my people and get back to them later. The others who have trickled in during this interlude all get their passports back with documents inside, the last being a pair who are taking a group of kids on an excursion (over 40 passports for them - can you imagine?).
It turns out that all the visas for the dig ended up going to the DC embassy. And that they cannot send visas to other embassies. So my passport left this morning for a trip across the Atlantic without me, here's hoping it makes it back in time for my flight in early July. I'm a bit more relaxed about the whole thing now that the deed has been done, but feel even more empathy for my Serbian compatriots and the rigors they must go through to get any kind of visa. As Uroš put it, it's like they deliberately set out to humiliate you. And yes, I'm still not in the pit of despair, but it's disconcerting being abroad without ones documents. To put it mildly. But the DHL guy today was totally helpful and I'm optimistic (again, not a big surprise, right?) that everything will work out for the best.
PLUS my birthday is next Friday! And how can I not be excited about that? Also got to hang out with Bogdan Rakic on my terrace this evening, catching up as the evening deepened into night. Who would have thought when I had him in class all those years ago we'd end up here like this? Life is a beautiful thing - as the incredible grandmother I was sitting next to in the park today said "Don't worry, be happy." Words to live by.
Enough (pseudo) moralizing. Enjoy summer truly beginning!
To give some context, that same afternoon I went to the US embassy to get additional pages put into my passport (I've run out of complete blanks thanks to Ukraine entry/exit stamps, so figured it was best to have virgin pages for this Turkish visa). My appointment was for 3, after going through the security check, leaving cellphone and ipod behind I penetrate the consular section. Security guy there (after going through a door labeled exit at the a narrow stairway) asks my name, there is no one at the check-in desk so he tells me to go sit down and wait for my name to be called. I go, I sit (I listen to directions).
After maybe 10 minutes I find a person through the thick plate glass of one of the windows (it's like a high security bank with numbered teller windows) and they "check me in". A disembodied voice announces who needs to go where, directing people to both payment kiosk and other places for papers. I'm the only one whose announcement is in English, give a lady my passport through a little slot along with paperwork I've filled out, told to wait. I'd called Eric beforehand, he actually is able to make it down and find me, so we while away the time chatting a bit in the completely sterile white environment with blue plastic chairs. The whole passport thing takes maybe 45 minutes, my visiting a bit longer.
I then head to Turkish embassy, a building I pass daily. This isn't the high security edifice of my compatriots. There's a metal detector when I walk in the door but no security guard to man it. I make my way up worn marble steps to a glassed in waiting area with a door that gives access to the rest of the main hall (the building is an old one with interesting marble tile work and period motifs on the walls and ceiling). There are two chairs, a desk that faces the window with a phone on it and a little tiny slot to desk on opposite side (where the embassy types roam free).
Because I've been verbose I won't go into excruciating detail but it takes me 15 minutes to convince the people that I do need a visa because it's for research. They take my papers with information about director, project, etc, leave, come back, leave again. One man comes through the door and tells me that he is not allowed to leave because of me (what can you say to that?). Finally I'm told they have nothing for me, I need to call my people and get back to them later. The others who have trickled in during this interlude all get their passports back with documents inside, the last being a pair who are taking a group of kids on an excursion (over 40 passports for them - can you imagine?).
It turns out that all the visas for the dig ended up going to the DC embassy. And that they cannot send visas to other embassies. So my passport left this morning for a trip across the Atlantic without me, here's hoping it makes it back in time for my flight in early July. I'm a bit more relaxed about the whole thing now that the deed has been done, but feel even more empathy for my Serbian compatriots and the rigors they must go through to get any kind of visa. As Uroš put it, it's like they deliberately set out to humiliate you. And yes, I'm still not in the pit of despair, but it's disconcerting being abroad without ones documents. To put it mildly. But the DHL guy today was totally helpful and I'm optimistic (again, not a big surprise, right?) that everything will work out for the best.
PLUS my birthday is next Friday! And how can I not be excited about that? Also got to hang out with Bogdan Rakic on my terrace this evening, catching up as the evening deepened into night. Who would have thought when I had him in class all those years ago we'd end up here like this? Life is a beautiful thing - as the incredible grandmother I was sitting next to in the park today said "Don't worry, be happy." Words to live by.
Enough (pseudo) moralizing. Enjoy summer truly beginning!
Monday, May 19, 2008
Hither, thither and yon
There and back again (as a famous hobbit once said). My dad (a.k.a. Bear) came to visit these past 10 days and it was marvelous, wonderful and all those other superlatives you can think of. Including busy. The saga began with lost luggage (fortunately it wasn't his clothes but a present for a friend of mine), continued with complications with getting back to the airport the next day to fly to Italy. Thankfully everything worked itself out and thus we could dedicate ourselves to walking.
And walking.
Did I mention we walked a lot? Finally got to see inside of St. Marco's church - splendidly beautiful. Bear had the camera, so when he posts photos I'll link them here. Reading Ruskin's The Stones of Venice also gave added insight. A full couple of days, but glad that we got to adventure in two countries (taking almost every form of transport possible during the course of the jaunt: car, plane, boat, train, bus & foot. What did we miss?)
Belgrade adventures included lots of meat (no surprise there), walking (ditto), and meeting friends (who now understand that my craziness isn't a total accident). I'm becoming quite the tour guide, if I could figure out how to make a business from it I totally would (and then I'd have work here in the summer! What a novel idea!). We even got to mosey around Museum night Saturday - my third one in a row! - mostly to watch the people, although there was also some great art.
Sunday we went with Cassie to Topola (driven by Miša who's quite the character himself), got to see the gorgeous church (mosaics were a theme of this visit) and sites connected to royal family. Our luck held as we left the last museum just as THREE tour buses pulled up filled with elementary school kids on excursions. Lunch at roadside restaurant contained perhaps equal parts grease and meat (although still good), and once again we were lucky with the slow service since it meant we avoided the major HAIL storm that blew through Beograd and left lots of wreckage (gushing waterfalls, large chunks of ice everywhere, tree limbs down, things broken).
This morning had us up at 4:30 (after a late night over last drinks of hot chocolate with Julia and Uroš at Bre cafe), but we made it to the airport for his 6:45 flight. Woohoo! I'll be heading back to Indiana myself next Tuesday, 27 May. Time is flying like mad... must be spring for real.
And walking.
Did I mention we walked a lot? Finally got to see inside of St. Marco's church - splendidly beautiful. Bear had the camera, so when he posts photos I'll link them here. Reading Ruskin's The Stones of Venice also gave added insight. A full couple of days, but glad that we got to adventure in two countries (taking almost every form of transport possible during the course of the jaunt: car, plane, boat, train, bus & foot. What did we miss?)
Belgrade adventures included lots of meat (no surprise there), walking (ditto), and meeting friends (who now understand that my craziness isn't a total accident). I'm becoming quite the tour guide, if I could figure out how to make a business from it I totally would (and then I'd have work here in the summer! What a novel idea!). We even got to mosey around Museum night Saturday - my third one in a row! - mostly to watch the people, although there was also some great art.
Sunday we went with Cassie to Topola (driven by Miša who's quite the character himself), got to see the gorgeous church (mosaics were a theme of this visit) and sites connected to royal family. Our luck held as we left the last museum just as THREE tour buses pulled up filled with elementary school kids on excursions. Lunch at roadside restaurant contained perhaps equal parts grease and meat (although still good), and once again we were lucky with the slow service since it meant we avoided the major HAIL storm that blew through Beograd and left lots of wreckage (gushing waterfalls, large chunks of ice everywhere, tree limbs down, things broken).
This morning had us up at 4:30 (after a late night over last drinks of hot chocolate with Julia and Uroš at Bre cafe), but we made it to the airport for his 6:45 flight. Woohoo! I'll be heading back to Indiana myself next Tuesday, 27 May. Time is flying like mad... must be spring for real.
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
These are the people in your neighborhood...
Entertained because walking to work the other day saw two guys looking a map, taking photos. Perhaps my trip to Venice has re-honed these instincts, but immediately I thought "Ah ha! Tourists!" and asked if they were lost. They weren't but we chatted a bit anyway, gave them some pointers and ended up inviting to meet me the next day to go get coffee with another friend. Why not? It was fun - ended up being Dragan, both Chris (a mechanical engineer from Oklahoma City taking 2 weeks vacation in Budapest and Belgrade) and Hayden (Brit studying classics who went to Greece to see what he's been reading about and decided to train it back instead of fly) came along, we went far out near Ada and just had a really good time. Lots of nerd/geek talk, swapping ghost stories, silliness. Hayden went to catch his train but Dragan and I took Chris for good homecooking (there's a little hut near to my house) mixing up talk of the Simpsons with current politics, stereotypes about Serbia. I greatly respect that the reason Chris came here was because he didn't know anyone else who'd ever been here - there's a spirit of adventure for you. And he's planning to come back - makes the heart glad.
So yes, I keep talking to strangers. And I even have new students! Strangers I get paid to talk to! How much better can it get?
So yes, I keep talking to strangers. And I even have new students! Strangers I get paid to talk to! How much better can it get?
Tuesday, March 25, 2008
Comings and Goings
Mike left this morning - I wish that traveling didn't require leaving sometimes. We had a rockin' good time here in BGD and it was beyond wonderful to have him around once again. I threw an impromptu party Saturday (invited people Friday morning) and while my apartment was STUFFED with people, everyone had a fantastic time (or so they said). Finally I got a bunch of people together that I've been wanting to meet for a long time. Knowing people in such convoluted ways, it's even more amusing to try and explain to them how we all know each other (even better was that many brought friends I didn't know, the circle ever-expands). The downside was having to be awake, dressed and functional for a lesson at noon on Sunday (yes, I worked on Easter); but totally worth it. Now if only a bunch of restaurants/cafes hadn't decided they would close for renovations this week (one night two out of three of my ideas for dinner weren't open) life would be even more perfect.
I head to Venice tomorrow morning for a little over a week. I'm sure there will be many stories to tell afterwards; here's seeing how Italian goes after all this Slavic language exposure. It's late and I have to get up early, so here's hoping your Easter was a good one (that included chocolate bunnies if possible) and that this weird March weather settles down a bit (snow, rain, sleet, and sun happened today in almost every sequence imaginable).
I head to Venice tomorrow morning for a little over a week. I'm sure there will be many stories to tell afterwards; here's seeing how Italian goes after all this Slavic language exposure. It's late and I have to get up early, so here's hoping your Easter was a good one (that included chocolate bunnies if possible) and that this weird March weather settles down a bit (snow, rain, sleet, and sun happened today in almost every sequence imaginable).
Monday, March 3, 2008
Late nights... and late nights
It's been a bit since my last posting - politics are still running amok but daily life has slipped back into that seductive lull of "I'll do my thing, the government will do its, and there's nothing I can do about it." Perhaps dangerous mindset, but here it is once again (hmmmm, where have we seen this before? It sounds so familiar).
Operating on the 'when it rains it pours' theory of existence, my sparsely filled days with barely any work and not much going out have morphed into a plethora of plans. I'm proud of getting to 2 films in FEST- "Le Scaphandre et le papillon" ("The Diving Bell and the Butterfly") was moving and beautiful to see. I had no idea what it was about going in, just knew that I'd be able to understand it (since French with Serbian subtitles I can handle). A man has sudden stroke, wakes up paralyzed and still manages to write a book - incredible. Both movies I saw ("Brokeback Mountain" was the other) spoke to be trapped in a situation you can't change and how varied reactions are to that state of affairs. I ponder on those who think they are trapped when they really could find a way out; we're good at placing blame far away from ourselves. But then again, sometimes you really are stuck in a situation - then it's figuring out how you yourself can make it at least livable, right?
Got to see The Belgrade Dixieland Orchestra play earlier in the week (spreading the music of the oppressors (note the sarcasm) for a Day of Jazz celebration; good tunes. Ate guacamole and played Scrabble, had really good Saturday classes and dinner with a new friend, went to Chinatown market... generally a good weekend and preparation for what will be a busy week as I cover adult classes.
Also looks like I should be working with American Councils for their summer pre-departure orientation for high schoolers going to spend a year in host families in the US; it would mean going to Ukraine for a few days end of April to get trained (where I've never been), then working end of June/start of July here in Beograd before heading to Turkey... plans they keep evolving.
OH! And funny thing - the artists have been having a lot of fun with the opportunities for satiric art current affairs have created. Here are some of my favorites based on actual posters (more here):
Operating on the 'when it rains it pours' theory of existence, my sparsely filled days with barely any work and not much going out have morphed into a plethora of plans. I'm proud of getting to 2 films in FEST- "Le Scaphandre et le papillon" ("The Diving Bell and the Butterfly") was moving and beautiful to see. I had no idea what it was about going in, just knew that I'd be able to understand it (since French with Serbian subtitles I can handle). A man has sudden stroke, wakes up paralyzed and still manages to write a book - incredible. Both movies I saw ("Brokeback Mountain" was the other) spoke to be trapped in a situation you can't change and how varied reactions are to that state of affairs. I ponder on those who think they are trapped when they really could find a way out; we're good at placing blame far away from ourselves. But then again, sometimes you really are stuck in a situation - then it's figuring out how you yourself can make it at least livable, right?
Got to see The Belgrade Dixieland Orchestra play earlier in the week (spreading the music of the oppressors (note the sarcasm) for a Day of Jazz celebration; good tunes. Ate guacamole and played Scrabble, had really good Saturday classes and dinner with a new friend, went to Chinatown market... generally a good weekend and preparation for what will be a busy week as I cover adult classes.
Also looks like I should be working with American Councils for their summer pre-departure orientation for high schoolers going to spend a year in host families in the US; it would mean going to Ukraine for a few days end of April to get trained (where I've never been), then working end of June/start of July here in Beograd before heading to Turkey... plans they keep evolving.
OH! And funny thing - the artists have been having a lot of fun with the opportunities for satiric art current affairs have created. Here are some of my favorites based on actual posters (more here):
Sunday, February 24, 2008
Sunday, sunny Sunday
So the travel alert I mentioned earlier has turned into a travel warning. The US embassy took out non-necessary personnel and dependents. But there's no need to panic - so stop panicking! Seems to be a bit more overcautious than needed, also sends political message? Again, my personal safety isn't in danger so I'm staying put.
Yesterday turned out to be a fine one. I have a new student starting next weekend, meeting with another one tomorrow (huzzah), so work appears to be picking up (knock wood). Had an excellent evening at Casa Garica with sangria and a good group of people - it was funny when Miha came because we had the Slovene, the American, and a crew of Serbs. Later on met some Brazilians... oh, the international mixing. Lots of laughter, decompressing and silliness in Serbian and English. One of my favorites was when Miha prepared to tell a joke saying it was funny in Czech, Serbian, Slovene, but not English - which was why he was telling it in English? Wordplay is a good time...
Today talked with the girls who live next door - I really like their family - as we sat on the terrace in the last of the sun and warmth of the day. It was an unexpected language lesson as we went from work/school doings to their reactions to the protests, news coverage, why Kosovo is Serbia. They pretty much felt that idiots shouldn't be destroying stuff and that it was a pity even more since all the protest/rally doings were peaceful. They'd gone down by the Parliament and said they couldn't move it was so crowded.
I find myself with not much more to say - been a quiet day, everything seems normal and that feels extremely good. You can only live with constant tension for so long after all. I'm supposed to go meet a friend here soon, so I'll post later when have more to say.
Yesterday turned out to be a fine one. I have a new student starting next weekend, meeting with another one tomorrow (huzzah), so work appears to be picking up (knock wood). Had an excellent evening at Casa Garica with sangria and a good group of people - it was funny when Miha came because we had the Slovene, the American, and a crew of Serbs. Later on met some Brazilians... oh, the international mixing. Lots of laughter, decompressing and silliness in Serbian and English. One of my favorites was when Miha prepared to tell a joke saying it was funny in Czech, Serbian, Slovene, but not English - which was why he was telling it in English? Wordplay is a good time...
Today talked with the girls who live next door - I really like their family - as we sat on the terrace in the last of the sun and warmth of the day. It was an unexpected language lesson as we went from work/school doings to their reactions to the protests, news coverage, why Kosovo is Serbia. They pretty much felt that idiots shouldn't be destroying stuff and that it was a pity even more since all the protest/rally doings were peaceful. They'd gone down by the Parliament and said they couldn't move it was so crowded.
I find myself with not much more to say - been a quiet day, everything seems normal and that feels extremely good. You can only live with constant tension for so long after all. I'm supposed to go meet a friend here soon, so I'll post later when have more to say.
Friday, February 22, 2008
Why not legged force? Or charming force?
I've decided that in an attempt to balance out the media that keeps focusing on negative actions, let's look at some more positive things. Like the fact that most of the protests were peaceful last night, tons of people DIDN'T burn things or destroy anything.
Today walking down the street saw little kids going to or from school on their own. Things are mostly peaceful, it was a gorgeous sunny day. I'm amused by the "Serbia is Kosovo" signs in most shop windows - suspect that some of them might be there as accident insurance (which if that's the case it worked). I'll put out there too that no one is attacking people in the streets; the hooligans are going after police and buildings. I feel a strange echo of my words during the Paris car burnings/riots - I'm still not a police officer OR a building. So I'll be alright.
Meanwhile I'll keep making jokes about being "zlo" (evil); perhaps they're tasteless but gotta keep laughing. Thanks to those who have been checking in to see if I'm ok - I'm resisting the potential existential crisis of the question "Are you ok?" (Because then I start wondering "Am I ok?"). I am and have lots of class tomorrow, meeting with a new student, and then going for drinks with a motley crew (ok, my crews are always motley, but still) - life continues as normal. And that's important
Today walking down the street saw little kids going to or from school on their own. Things are mostly peaceful, it was a gorgeous sunny day. I'm amused by the "Serbia is Kosovo" signs in most shop windows - suspect that some of them might be there as accident insurance (which if that's the case it worked). I'll put out there too that no one is attacking people in the streets; the hooligans are going after police and buildings. I feel a strange echo of my words during the Paris car burnings/riots - I'm still not a police officer OR a building. So I'll be alright.
Meanwhile I'll keep making jokes about being "zlo" (evil); perhaps they're tasteless but gotta keep laughing. Thanks to those who have been checking in to see if I'm ok - I'm resisting the potential existential crisis of the question "Are you ok?" (Because then I start wondering "Am I ok?"). I am and have lots of class tomorrow, meeting with a new student, and then going for drinks with a motley crew (ok, my crews are always motley, but still) - life continues as normal. And that's important
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Burning...
US Embassy was breached. Twitter is a decent blog, although take a grain of salt and verify things. Also Belgrade 2.0, (although not updating). Saw images of fire (like this one above), it's now been picked up by CNN and others.
The crowds were big (200-300,000) at the protest, pretty calm although some instances of kids throwing things, burning trash cans, etc. in side streets. There was rally at Parliament at 5 (photo), then service at St. Sava at 7 - things were quiet there, peaceful and beautiful in a way with candles and folks of all ages gathering. Someone said today that Serbia needs to mourn its loss of Kosovo - I'm fine with mourning but not destructive pyres.
Going to make banana bread. Watch the news some more. Was told this afternoon that there's no reason that I should need to leave in a hurry. Here's hoping that still holds tomorrow.
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Spy alliance for life!
Nothing much new to report to be perfectly honest. There's tension in the air like I've never felt before; everyone is waiting, waiting. Life is moving on, yet on hold. Friends are becoming more paranoid, the question everyone is asking is "what will happen?"
And no one seems to know.
Yesterday I didn't have any classes - this week I'm not working very much due to cancellations and these potential new students playing the waiting game before starting anything new. It timed out well because I could meet with Anne-Sophie, a lovely française I met in December who has been traveling around the region for almost 6 months now. I could once more speak in French (yay!) and drink fabulous hot chocolate as well as talk about the difficulties with transitioning home after travels, the constant pressures of being foreign, becoming an "other" at home and away, ideas about the future, and compare the US, France, Serbia, and other Balkan countries. After my English reading circle (I do like those lit discussions) I met up with some fellow crazy Americans, Anne-Sophie came too and we toasted Lafayette, were silly and serious at turns. Did everyone good I think - with all this pressure you have to be silly otherwise you'll crack. It was a good night with a motley crew assembled by the end laughing like mad.
Today I had two classes, ran some errands, saw other friends for drinks in the evening. We finished up with Anne-Sophie, Nicholas and I walking homewards discussing (in French naturally) how everyone assumes that we're spies. I mean, I've stopped fighting it. And when the French conspiracy to overthrow everything so that Sarkozy can manage his marital woes and make everyone eat snails daily comes to light, well, you'll know where you heard it first. And that classy dame on his arm? Well, let's just say I met her in Belgrade in the wee smalls of a December evening...
Seriously, the big protest tomorrow will be a (if not the) turning point. Nicholas (who sticks out a bit being a tall black man from Congo even though he claims to be Montenegrin) said that the way people look at him has changed for the worse as the week has gone on. He's used to being stared at but it's become more pointed. A policeman stopped him today and told him not to go out tomorrow for his own sake (rioters don't check ID before beating you after all). Tense. Things are supposed to be peaceful, but who knows what will actually happen. I'll be going nowhere near the center but watching it on TV (perhaps). I'd just like this miasma of fear to go away, is that too much to ask?
And no one seems to know.
Yesterday I didn't have any classes - this week I'm not working very much due to cancellations and these potential new students playing the waiting game before starting anything new. It timed out well because I could meet with Anne-Sophie, a lovely française I met in December who has been traveling around the region for almost 6 months now. I could once more speak in French (yay!) and drink fabulous hot chocolate as well as talk about the difficulties with transitioning home after travels, the constant pressures of being foreign, becoming an "other" at home and away, ideas about the future, and compare the US, France, Serbia, and other Balkan countries. After my English reading circle (I do like those lit discussions) I met up with some fellow crazy Americans, Anne-Sophie came too and we toasted Lafayette, were silly and serious at turns. Did everyone good I think - with all this pressure you have to be silly otherwise you'll crack. It was a good night with a motley crew assembled by the end laughing like mad.
Today I had two classes, ran some errands, saw other friends for drinks in the evening. We finished up with Anne-Sophie, Nicholas and I walking homewards discussing (in French naturally) how everyone assumes that we're spies. I mean, I've stopped fighting it. And when the French conspiracy to overthrow everything so that Sarkozy can manage his marital woes and make everyone eat snails daily comes to light, well, you'll know where you heard it first. And that classy dame on his arm? Well, let's just say I met her in Belgrade in the wee smalls of a December evening...
Seriously, the big protest tomorrow will be a (if not the) turning point. Nicholas (who sticks out a bit being a tall black man from Congo even though he claims to be Montenegrin) said that the way people look at him has changed for the worse as the week has gone on. He's used to being stared at but it's become more pointed. A policeman stopped him today and told him not to go out tomorrow for his own sake (rioters don't check ID before beating you after all). Tense. Things are supposed to be peaceful, but who knows what will actually happen. I'll be going nowhere near the center but watching it on TV (perhaps). I'd just like this miasma of fear to go away, is that too much to ask?
Monday, February 18, 2008
Kosovo recognition: Afghanistan first, France, U.S. follow
This is a real headline from B92. Sounds like the US and France said, "Hey, if Afghanistan is doing it, well, we should too! Then we'll be super cool. Like they are!" The comments are great on the article as well, worth reading.
So it was my first day out in a few - felt good to be outside my four walls. The city seemed full of its normal kind of busyness with people everywhere, although there were more police out and about, directing traffic and being present in front of public buildings. Plans are being made for protests, the government is heading up one Thursday and there is talk of students doing something but nothing definite. After my lesson I saw riot police (they so look like Ninja Turtles) at Zeleni Vrenac (a market and big bus stop), some vandal youth shouting at each other. The McD's there was already trashed as well; Mercator (a Slovene owner supermarket) was evacuated this afternoon because of bomb threat (they had a little explosion earlier this week when the store was empty). Most of the destruction has been done by this kind of crowd - teens who are bored and see a good excuse to break some stuff. Why not?
Heard stories from other friends about October 5th revolution and how organizers during that time would change cell numbers daily, keep everyone on their call list memorized and leave no trace in their phones at all. No contact info, call history, or text messages. Now there's dedication to a cause.
Speaking of texts, got one from a friend that said "don't go protest even if you can run ;-) this is crazy country - i told you so." Taxi driver tonight told me that every country has its radicals - she's totally right. (She didn't realize either that I'm not Serbian - my "disguise" of comprehension pays off again!) It's unfortunate that they are often the ones who get media coverage. But then again, moderates don't give quite as exciting quotes or do quite such boneheaded actions. Usually.
My students keep canceling lessons as well - who knows what's connected to what.
I just want someone to give me a good reason or two that Serbia would actually want to keep Kosovo - in many ways they're better off without it. By the same token, I wonder how those in Kosovo will really benefit from being independent. Infrastructure doesn't grow overnight.
And for all of you wondering out there - I've packed away my American flag cape since this is obviously not the time to be wearing it on the streets. Which are quiet, safe, and FULL of police. I'll update more frequently this week as I rocket around and see what I can find out (without, of course, putting myself in danger).
So it was my first day out in a few - felt good to be outside my four walls. The city seemed full of its normal kind of busyness with people everywhere, although there were more police out and about, directing traffic and being present in front of public buildings. Plans are being made for protests, the government is heading up one Thursday and there is talk of students doing something but nothing definite. After my lesson I saw riot police (they so look like Ninja Turtles) at Zeleni Vrenac (a market and big bus stop), some vandal youth shouting at each other. The McD's there was already trashed as well; Mercator (a Slovene owner supermarket) was evacuated this afternoon because of bomb threat (they had a little explosion earlier this week when the store was empty). Most of the destruction has been done by this kind of crowd - teens who are bored and see a good excuse to break some stuff. Why not?
Heard stories from other friends about October 5th revolution and how organizers during that time would change cell numbers daily, keep everyone on their call list memorized and leave no trace in their phones at all. No contact info, call history, or text messages. Now there's dedication to a cause.
Speaking of texts, got one from a friend that said "don't go protest even if you can run ;-) this is crazy country - i told you so." Taxi driver tonight told me that every country has its radicals - she's totally right. (She didn't realize either that I'm not Serbian - my "disguise" of comprehension pays off again!) It's unfortunate that they are often the ones who get media coverage. But then again, moderates don't give quite as exciting quotes or do quite such boneheaded actions. Usually.
My students keep canceling lessons as well - who knows what's connected to what.
I just want someone to give me a good reason or two that Serbia would actually want to keep Kosovo - in many ways they're better off without it. By the same token, I wonder how those in Kosovo will really benefit from being independent. Infrastructure doesn't grow overnight.
And for all of you wondering out there - I've packed away my American flag cape since this is obviously not the time to be wearing it on the streets. Which are quiet, safe, and FULL of police. I'll update more frequently this week as I rocket around and see what I can find out (without, of course, putting myself in danger).
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Riots
Yes, there were riots at the US Embassy today in Belgrade. Also Slovenian Embassy. There's some video here. Also here is B92 coverage.
I've learned also that I'm a bringer of evil. That's what some of them say on the news - my Serbian has definitely improved.
Perhaps on a slightly irreverent note, I must add that today my cumin lost its will to live and plunged from my spice rack. Coincidence? No. Moved by its plight (as well as its own identity being in question - was it really cumin seeds after all? Or caraway?), separated from other spices by glass, perhaps also it harbored sympathies for those who also want to be apart, independent. Even if that independence means leaving via the trash bag. Sacrifice and all that.
So yes, they've stormed the McDonald's downtown. But I'm safe. And plan to continue being so. Reminds me of when I was in Paris during the riots - there I wasn't a car or police officer; here I'm not a public building so not a good target for rioting. I'll post more as I know it. But still no one seems to be really worried yet.
I've learned also that I'm a bringer of evil. That's what some of them say on the news - my Serbian has definitely improved.
Perhaps on a slightly irreverent note, I must add that today my cumin lost its will to live and plunged from my spice rack. Coincidence? No. Moved by its plight (as well as its own identity being in question - was it really cumin seeds after all? Or caraway?), separated from other spices by glass, perhaps also it harbored sympathies for those who also want to be apart, independent. Even if that independence means leaving via the trash bag. Sacrifice and all that.
So yes, they've stormed the McDonald's downtown. But I'm safe. And plan to continue being so. Reminds me of when I was in Paris during the riots - there I wasn't a car or police officer; here I'm not a public building so not a good target for rioting. I'll post more as I know it. But still no one seems to be really worried yet.
Oh the pain...
Some excitement here in Beograd. I hear there are tons of cops outside the US Embassy but no protesters. Kosovo is talking about "sticking to its agenda" (whatever that means exactly), I'm watching my news sources but everyone I've talked to expects it to stay a governmental, non-violent affair. Whew. Our recent warden notice (sent to registered US citizens in this fair nation) simply warned against going to public demonstrations of any sort because they could become messy. They always say that though.
We also had a low-level earthquake the other day - I'd thought it was just my neighbor doing something odd below, but no. Crazy. See, anything can happen here. No lie.
Past few days have been very quiet for me - my low back decided that it hated me on Valentine's Day (which I have no explanation for) despite my chocolate consumption. I went to a lesson anyway but could barely walk afterwards. Stayed over at Julia's and two doctors told me they didn't see anything wrong, so loaded me with painkillers and I lay on a bed of pain since I couldn't really do anything else. I did make it home the next day though (and up all those stairs) and haven't left my place since. I've had some visitors for coffee, watched some good movies, just taking it totally slow. Frustrating how my first three day weekend in months and I can't do anything on it (and I for once had what looked like a full social calendar, just to add insult to injury). Since the weather is totally freezing (could this be the reason for no protesters? Possibly.) being inside and warm isn't such a bad plan after all. Today I'm moving less like an old woman and plan to be back on my feet tomorrow no longer taking the simple miracle of locomotion for granted.
That way I can not attend protests more easily if nothing else.
We also had a low-level earthquake the other day - I'd thought it was just my neighbor doing something odd below, but no. Crazy. See, anything can happen here. No lie.
Past few days have been very quiet for me - my low back decided that it hated me on Valentine's Day (which I have no explanation for) despite my chocolate consumption. I went to a lesson anyway but could barely walk afterwards. Stayed over at Julia's and two doctors told me they didn't see anything wrong, so loaded me with painkillers and I lay on a bed of pain since I couldn't really do anything else. I did make it home the next day though (and up all those stairs) and haven't left my place since. I've had some visitors for coffee, watched some good movies, just taking it totally slow. Frustrating how my first three day weekend in months and I can't do anything on it (and I for once had what looked like a full social calendar, just to add insult to injury). Since the weather is totally freezing (could this be the reason for no protesters? Possibly.) being inside and warm isn't such a bad plan after all. Today I'm moving less like an old woman and plan to be back on my feet tomorrow no longer taking the simple miracle of locomotion for granted.
That way I can not attend protests more easily if nothing else.
Tuesday, February 12, 2008
Party photos!
I'm inordinately proud of the party I threw before I went to the states in Dec - more people than I'd expected came, it ended up being an all-night affair and lots of fun for just being a "gathering." There were foreigners from the US, France, Congo, a mix of Serbs from English teachers to art students to doctors - truly a motley crew and a lovely way to see folks before going away for a month. Just when things seemed to be winding down (Nicholas, Raphael and I were the only ones left) Miloš showed up with a French girl, two American/Serbian girls, and sandwiches, starting us off again until past 6 a.m.
Finally I've gotten the photos up - I even had Christmas lights courtesy of Julia and Kata (hvala!). Hope to get some other winter photos of Beograd and beyond posted soon as well. Enjoy!
Finally I've gotten the photos up - I even had Christmas lights courtesy of Julia and Kata (hvala!). Hope to get some other winter photos of Beograd and beyond posted soon as well. Enjoy!
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Elections
In case you've not heard, Tadić won the elections here on Sunday night. It was a close election, although there were record numbers of voters that came out to pick the new president. I didn't vote (for some reason I think I'd have a hard time passing for a guy named Vojin at the polls), but everyone I know did. Which is great to hear. I'll freely admit some relief that the pro-EU guy won (I don't think I'll need to pack up my bags anytime soon for political reasons), but the results show the country's deep divide, he only had about 3% more than his pro-Russia opponent.
Huh. Where have we heard this before? Again I'm struck with the similarities between Serbia and the USA, especially among the people I call my friends as well as those I meet randomly. Figured that elections are a good subject to write about on Super Tuesday- chatted with Tom this morning who freely admitted to being obsessed even though we're both transatlantic. Read a great opinion piece on Obama that made me want to believe so very much that our country might actually turn around, or at least start going down a different path.
So here's to believing that change can actually happen still. Even in this era of cynicism.
(And here's hoping you enjoy Mardis Gras! I went to Carnival party on Friday night thrown by Brazilian embassy types; there were some costumes, lots of dancing, generally a great time. The counsel dressed as an old lady for half the night and rocked out on his guitar, his mother playing percussion. Fabulous. I ended up chatting with a pocket of consultants for US Steel near the end who came from Columbia, Argentina, India, the US (but all based in USA) - again, small random world. Perhaps someday I'll stop saying that...)
Huh. Where have we heard this before? Again I'm struck with the similarities between Serbia and the USA, especially among the people I call my friends as well as those I meet randomly. Figured that elections are a good subject to write about on Super Tuesday- chatted with Tom this morning who freely admitted to being obsessed even though we're both transatlantic. Read a great opinion piece on Obama that made me want to believe so very much that our country might actually turn around, or at least start going down a different path.
So here's to believing that change can actually happen still. Even in this era of cynicism.
(And here's hoping you enjoy Mardis Gras! I went to Carnival party on Friday night thrown by Brazilian embassy types; there were some costumes, lots of dancing, generally a great time. The counsel dressed as an old lady for half the night and rocked out on his guitar, his mother playing percussion. Fabulous. I ended up chatting with a pocket of consultants for US Steel near the end who came from Columbia, Argentina, India, the US (but all based in USA) - again, small random world. Perhaps someday I'll stop saying that...)
Monday, January 28, 2008
Back in Beograd
Now that the jet-lag seems to be mostly gone, I think I can string enough sentences together to actually write something pseudo coherent. But be forewarned...
The rest of my time stateside was mostly a whole lot of fun - Minneapolis was a blast even if it was colder than, well, cold. I met excellent people, got to walk on a lake (how cool is that?), learned that I'm not good at guitar hero but still decent at foosball. Returning home meant facing the not-as-fun task of cleaning out most of my room so Barb can turn it into an office. Still, probably should have been done a long time ago and I was able to see/chat with lovely folks to split up the time. Also read a whole ton of things glutting myself on basically unlimited English book access. A small joy that unfortunately is a downside of living abroad - what I can get my hands on is a bit bizarre at times. And anyone who likes books should read Leave Me Alone, I'm Reading by Maureen Corrigan. It's funny and reflective, she makes good points about work and literature that I appreciated a whole bunch.
Coming back across the Atlantic was a bit more eventful than I'd planned. For one my flight time changed and I'd never gotten an email telling me so, thus rushing up to Indy. I also traveled with a friend's trombone - it got to travel up in first class closets, lucky thing that it is - although it wasn't too much of a hardship (I also had no close connections). In DC I ran into Anna, a fellow American who was a colleague in the spring, she's back in Belgrade on a language learning grant for the semester. We used the long layover in Munich to catch up. Small world. Even funnier is that another friend runs the NGO that gave the grant.
The other unlooked for excitement came on the plane to Munich Thursday. I was trying to sleep and started thinking about some notes that I wanted to write. This prevented me from sleeping so I decided to pull out my computer and start typing. Turned it on and then everything froze. Odd, I thought, so pushed to restart. Except that then it wouldn't boot correctly, got this blinking question marked folder. In airport later looked at a manual on Anna's computer and tried to fix to no avail. So the first real thing I did after getting home and being welcomed by dear friends was find an Apple store. And then learned a few hours later that my hard drive was toast. To-ast. And that it was going to be a decent chunk of money to fix; but I had no choice. Then on Friday morning my befogged brain cleared a smidgen and I got my Applecare number from Barb; went in to pick it up and asked if it was covered. They had to ask basically everyone in the store it seemed but apparently yes! Apple comes through again! So I now have a bigger drive and I didn't have to pay for it (although I suppose they could still call me later demanding my first born or something). The next hurtle was figuring out how to get the backup I made before I left to load since it now has a newer OS... oh, the joys of technology. But everything seems to be in order now and I didn't loose anything that I can tell. Whew. Lesson: ALWAYS get extended warranties.
This weekend also saw me back in the classroom for two groggy hours - thankfully my teens were mostly kind to me (I wooed them with stories from my travels, breaking the golden rule of keeping "teacher talking time" to a minimum). Sunday I went to Zagreb with Bodin and some of his colleagues to return an instrument (gotta love these orchestra types). Even though I'd vowed to stay out of cars for awhile it was good to see some countryside, actually walk around city center (even if that wasn't for very long - the lunch at his friend's place took longer than anyone anticipated and thus we only could scurry a bit in the center before hitting the highway again). There was a funny moment when Roland introduced himself to everyone and a little later asked me where I'd learned English. Everyone laughed when I said I'm American, that's how (he's a tuba player from Hungary). It was yet another multi-national, multi-lingual extravaganza. My Serbian still exists (yay!) and I'm playing around with the idea of starting lessons again just to get things regulated a bit more.
So there you go, I'm back mostly catching up with friends and settling back into Beograd life. The next nine months promise to be anything but boring; here's hoping everyone has a grand new year (since it's still January we can still wish happy new year, right?) and that we all do better about keeping in touch!
The rest of my time stateside was mostly a whole lot of fun - Minneapolis was a blast even if it was colder than, well, cold. I met excellent people, got to walk on a lake (how cool is that?), learned that I'm not good at guitar hero but still decent at foosball. Returning home meant facing the not-as-fun task of cleaning out most of my room so Barb can turn it into an office. Still, probably should have been done a long time ago and I was able to see/chat with lovely folks to split up the time. Also read a whole ton of things glutting myself on basically unlimited English book access. A small joy that unfortunately is a downside of living abroad - what I can get my hands on is a bit bizarre at times. And anyone who likes books should read Leave Me Alone, I'm Reading by Maureen Corrigan. It's funny and reflective, she makes good points about work and literature that I appreciated a whole bunch.
Coming back across the Atlantic was a bit more eventful than I'd planned. For one my flight time changed and I'd never gotten an email telling me so, thus rushing up to Indy. I also traveled with a friend's trombone - it got to travel up in first class closets, lucky thing that it is - although it wasn't too much of a hardship (I also had no close connections). In DC I ran into Anna, a fellow American who was a colleague in the spring, she's back in Belgrade on a language learning grant for the semester. We used the long layover in Munich to catch up. Small world. Even funnier is that another friend runs the NGO that gave the grant.
The other unlooked for excitement came on the plane to Munich Thursday. I was trying to sleep and started thinking about some notes that I wanted to write. This prevented me from sleeping so I decided to pull out my computer and start typing. Turned it on and then everything froze. Odd, I thought, so pushed to restart. Except that then it wouldn't boot correctly, got this blinking question marked folder. In airport later looked at a manual on Anna's computer and tried to fix to no avail. So the first real thing I did after getting home and being welcomed by dear friends was find an Apple store. And then learned a few hours later that my hard drive was toast. To-ast. And that it was going to be a decent chunk of money to fix; but I had no choice. Then on Friday morning my befogged brain cleared a smidgen and I got my Applecare number from Barb; went in to pick it up and asked if it was covered. They had to ask basically everyone in the store it seemed but apparently yes! Apple comes through again! So I now have a bigger drive and I didn't have to pay for it (although I suppose they could still call me later demanding my first born or something). The next hurtle was figuring out how to get the backup I made before I left to load since it now has a newer OS... oh, the joys of technology. But everything seems to be in order now and I didn't loose anything that I can tell. Whew. Lesson: ALWAYS get extended warranties.
This weekend also saw me back in the classroom for two groggy hours - thankfully my teens were mostly kind to me (I wooed them with stories from my travels, breaking the golden rule of keeping "teacher talking time" to a minimum). Sunday I went to Zagreb with Bodin and some of his colleagues to return an instrument (gotta love these orchestra types). Even though I'd vowed to stay out of cars for awhile it was good to see some countryside, actually walk around city center (even if that wasn't for very long - the lunch at his friend's place took longer than anyone anticipated and thus we only could scurry a bit in the center before hitting the highway again). There was a funny moment when Roland introduced himself to everyone and a little later asked me where I'd learned English. Everyone laughed when I said I'm American, that's how (he's a tuba player from Hungary). It was yet another multi-national, multi-lingual extravaganza. My Serbian still exists (yay!) and I'm playing around with the idea of starting lessons again just to get things regulated a bit more.
So there you go, I'm back mostly catching up with friends and settling back into Beograd life. The next nine months promise to be anything but boring; here's hoping everyone has a grand new year (since it's still January we can still wish happy new year, right?) and that we all do better about keeping in touch!
Thursday, December 6, 2007
Sadness
I showed up for my class with Vuk, the 16 year-old pianist who wants to study in US next year, only to learn that his father Dušan had died on Tuesday. He had cancer that they'd discovered only 2 months ago, apparently it was faster than they'd imagined. The funeral's on Friday. Vuk's taking the TOEFL on Saturday. Please keep the Jovanović family (Vuk's younger brother and mother) in your thoughts and prayers, they need it.
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Thanksgiving and the aftermath
I actually found a pie plate and fresh ginger, allowing me to begin my Thanksgiving the wee smalls of the morning with apple pie making. (Kate couldn't resist the pun that she was glad it panned out.) I'd gotten good news Wednesday night - one of my students wants class 5 days a week, 2 hours a day! - and had gone to Dragana's to gush a bit, ended up chatting with folks there, going for cevap... yes, yes, you've heard this all before. What was different though was getting home at midnight with a pie to make for a dinner that started at 3 p.m. that day. So I watched "Funny Face" as I peeled apples, talked to some folks back home and had a pie ready to go around 3:30 a.m. or so. The joys of night baking.
I had a class with my printer student, then came home with the TV he's loaned me (super rad) before gathering things to go pick up Cassandra, my Thanksgiving date. Once again the taxi had no idea where Eric's street was but managed to get there nonetheless. It was a crowd of mostly embassy types, Cassie and I were exceptions since she's running a NGO here and I'm, well, an English teacher. Made some friends that I hope to see soon - we're going to start cooking together with Andrea, from Chili and married to an American (she claims to be one of the few Latino women who doesn't cook), had someone else tell me to take the foreign service exam (ummmmm, don't think so), also planning on a Beastie Boys inspired games night. Yes my friends, I might appear to be classy but that never stopped games nights! Thankfully. I also realized as the afternoon wore on that Cassie and I were basically the only non-couple there; do you have to be married to be in foreign service? This is my question. But we were definitely fun, there's no doubt about that. Any gathering where you end up reading picture books to 5 year old twins, well, heeelllllo? MAJOR party action there.
We ate a TON of food, I've not been that stuffed in a long time. Turkey was 25 lbs. and fabulous, they did it in brine and then with citrus, no stuffing. And the desserts... truly wondrous. Pies and brownies and peanut butter cookies... yum. Perhaps I'll take up Sally's idea of becoming a food columnist sometime sooner than later, we'll see. Got a ride to Cassie's with the thought of continuing the festivities but I was exhausted (little sleep + turkey = fatigue) so headed home instead. Then had the joy of talking to the Qualls crew gathered at my home for a good long while; I really hope to be there next year if it's at all possible.
Unlike most of my fellow Americans who work here, I did not have a four-day weekend (being a "private contractor") and went back to the grind of classes the next day. Thankfully I was able to get outside a bit in the sun on Saturday since I had a huge hole in my schedule with teen classes and had lunch at this new restaurant Wok to Walk - clever eh? It almost felt like a real weekend... until I had to go back to class. Again, a lament you've heard so I won't repeat it too terribly much. Or at least try not to. But it looks like I'll be working everyday before I get back to the states; that's something to be thankful for as well I suppose.
Hope you also had a fine time with food, friends, and family. I'm getting excited about Christmas time festivities now and all the fun that'll be.
I had a class with my printer student, then came home with the TV he's loaned me (super rad) before gathering things to go pick up Cassandra, my Thanksgiving date. Once again the taxi had no idea where Eric's street was but managed to get there nonetheless. It was a crowd of mostly embassy types, Cassie and I were exceptions since she's running a NGO here and I'm, well, an English teacher. Made some friends that I hope to see soon - we're going to start cooking together with Andrea, from Chili and married to an American (she claims to be one of the few Latino women who doesn't cook), had someone else tell me to take the foreign service exam (ummmmm, don't think so), also planning on a Beastie Boys inspired games night. Yes my friends, I might appear to be classy but that never stopped games nights! Thankfully. I also realized as the afternoon wore on that Cassie and I were basically the only non-couple there; do you have to be married to be in foreign service? This is my question. But we were definitely fun, there's no doubt about that. Any gathering where you end up reading picture books to 5 year old twins, well, heeelllllo? MAJOR party action there.
We ate a TON of food, I've not been that stuffed in a long time. Turkey was 25 lbs. and fabulous, they did it in brine and then with citrus, no stuffing. And the desserts... truly wondrous. Pies and brownies and peanut butter cookies... yum. Perhaps I'll take up Sally's idea of becoming a food columnist sometime sooner than later, we'll see. Got a ride to Cassie's with the thought of continuing the festivities but I was exhausted (little sleep + turkey = fatigue) so headed home instead. Then had the joy of talking to the Qualls crew gathered at my home for a good long while; I really hope to be there next year if it's at all possible.
Unlike most of my fellow Americans who work here, I did not have a four-day weekend (being a "private contractor") and went back to the grind of classes the next day. Thankfully I was able to get outside a bit in the sun on Saturday since I had a huge hole in my schedule with teen classes and had lunch at this new restaurant Wok to Walk - clever eh? It almost felt like a real weekend... until I had to go back to class. Again, a lament you've heard so I won't repeat it too terribly much. Or at least try not to. But it looks like I'll be working everyday before I get back to the states; that's something to be thankful for as well I suppose.
Hope you also had a fine time with food, friends, and family. I'm getting excited about Christmas time festivities now and all the fun that'll be.
Sunday, November 18, 2007
Prvi sneg!
It's been snowing for 2 days now - so beautiful in the morning, the fresh cover of white over everything. We've gotten a good couple inches, although once I get on the street the gray slush becomes less appealing as the day wears on. Also sidewalks don't seem to get cleaned off here, the streets barely scraped as well, so it's treacherous walking. Oddly enough the paths in the park I cut through to get to my Saturday classes were perfectly clean with plows in view and everything. Also saw a cute little kid and his parents playing; they were some sort of Asian and it appeared to be his first snow, lots of pictures happening. Shaking the trees to make more fall, snowballs and laughter - brilliant.
The weather gives me then the perfect excuse to make banana bread and soup, not go out any more today but read instead. I've made a new American friend, Kate, who's Mennonite and doing volunteer work here for a year. She has friends who went to Earlham and we know at least one person in common - the world is way too small sometimes. But then again I never know who I'll meet when I do something like go to Urus's book group to talk about Poe. It was nice to just chat over tea and be all warm in the kitchen together.
Excited about Thanksgiving (although I need to find a pie plate) and my upcoming trip back home. But for now I think hot chocolate and a good book are in order; encourage you to do the same. Snow's good for this kinda thing.
The weather gives me then the perfect excuse to make banana bread and soup, not go out any more today but read instead. I've made a new American friend, Kate, who's Mennonite and doing volunteer work here for a year. She has friends who went to Earlham and we know at least one person in common - the world is way too small sometimes. But then again I never know who I'll meet when I do something like go to Urus's book group to talk about Poe. It was nice to just chat over tea and be all warm in the kitchen together.
Excited about Thanksgiving (although I need to find a pie plate) and my upcoming trip back home. But for now I think hot chocolate and a good book are in order; encourage you to do the same. Snow's good for this kinda thing.
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