Entertained because walking to work the other day saw two guys looking a map, taking photos. Perhaps my trip to Venice has re-honed these instincts, but immediately I thought "Ah ha! Tourists!" and asked if they were lost. They weren't but we chatted a bit anyway, gave them some pointers and ended up inviting to meet me the next day to go get coffee with another friend. Why not? It was fun - ended up being Dragan, both Chris (a mechanical engineer from Oklahoma City taking 2 weeks vacation in Budapest and Belgrade) and Hayden (Brit studying classics who went to Greece to see what he's been reading about and decided to train it back instead of fly) came along, we went far out near Ada and just had a really good time. Lots of nerd/geek talk, swapping ghost stories, silliness. Hayden went to catch his train but Dragan and I took Chris for good homecooking (there's a little hut near to my house) mixing up talk of the Simpsons with current politics, stereotypes about Serbia. I greatly respect that the reason Chris came here was because he didn't know anyone else who'd ever been here - there's a spirit of adventure for you. And he's planning to come back - makes the heart glad.
So yes, I keep talking to strangers. And I even have new students! Strangers I get paid to talk to! How much better can it get?
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
Monday, April 7, 2008
Saturday, April 5, 2008
No Death in Venice
Listening to my father's words, I did not die in Venice, allowing me to escape the fate of having parallels made between me and Thomas Mann (a blessing for sure). Although redheaded men currently do play a leading role in my life, I had no contact with any whilst there this time.
The rest of my trip involved lots of history - I visited at least a museum a day. Tuesday was an exhibition about Romans and Barbarians where I wished they had better (or at least a big more descriptive) labeling. Wednesday began with the Dodge's Palace and all its splendor. The waiting room covered in maps with two large globes (one of the earth, other of the heavens) really struck me as did the enormous chamber where the Grand Council would meet. My ticket got me into a few other museums so I decided to take advantage. That afternoon I headed to Museo Correr (which focuses on history of the Venetian republic) and enjoyed a globe exhibition - incredible details and art from so long ago. Attached was also the Archaeological Museum and rooms in the National library (now exhibition space). I was glad there was so much as a thunderstorm blew in maybe a half hour after I'd entered, allowing me to peruse at leisure the overwhelming richness therein. When not only the walls but ceilings are covered in art it can get a bit too much. I'll not drone on about the cool statues, etc. I saw but if you go to Venice it's worth the visit. Thursday afternooon brought me to Ca'Pesaro, a modern art museum that also houses an oriental/Asian art and artifact collection. I was glad to rest my eyes on something more familiar and not drenched in history that I don't know much about.
Met some more artists when I tried to find Stefan (the Bulgarian painter) again. The address I had wasn't the place I was looking for but another gallery instead. Thus I got to meet a woman who does striking things mixing cloth, paint and transferring photographs over top. I did manage to locate him and the others too, making new acquaintances in the process. Roamed around a bunch, ate gelatto, and hung out with Pia and company late in the evenings. A good balance of work and play overall. Thursday night we went out to meet some of her acquaintances - a few girls were from Belgrade and confirmed this as truth by the first thing they asked me: "Where do you live in Beograd?" Location is everything, even when away from home I suppose. Also got to chat with a great guy from Chad in French (huzzah), it was nice to be free once more in a foreign tongue. It was a fun last night but getting home in the wee smalls and then chatting more made our planned departure time on Friday of 10 a.m. impossible. Instead took a more leisurely time, had one last cappuccino with Pia in the square by the apartment (here we are below), and then hit the road (well, the valporetto that took us to the road).
Swung through Trieste - wish that had more time to visit there, it was simply gorgeous with the coast in the sun - and continued the drive back home. But took longer than planned (stopping to eat helped that) so I didn't get to my apartment until 1 a.m. And I had classes at 10 a.m. that morning (which I still had to prep). Still, I did it and survived (and slept a whole ton last night finally). In short a good trip where I learned a bunch. I'll post photos soon so you can enjoy the plethora of pretty old buildings that surrounded me for the past 10 days.
The rest of my trip involved lots of history - I visited at least a museum a day. Tuesday was an exhibition about Romans and Barbarians where I wished they had better (or at least a big more descriptive) labeling. Wednesday began with the Dodge's Palace and all its splendor. The waiting room covered in maps with two large globes (one of the earth, other of the heavens) really struck me as did the enormous chamber where the Grand Council would meet. My ticket got me into a few other museums so I decided to take advantage. That afternoon I headed to Museo Correr (which focuses on history of the Venetian republic) and enjoyed a globe exhibition - incredible details and art from so long ago. Attached was also the Archaeological Museum and rooms in the National library (now exhibition space). I was glad there was so much as a thunderstorm blew in maybe a half hour after I'd entered, allowing me to peruse at leisure the overwhelming richness therein. When not only the walls but ceilings are covered in art it can get a bit too much. I'll not drone on about the cool statues, etc. I saw but if you go to Venice it's worth the visit. Thursday afternooon brought me to Ca'Pesaro, a modern art museum that also houses an oriental/Asian art and artifact collection. I was glad to rest my eyes on something more familiar and not drenched in history that I don't know much about.
Met some more artists when I tried to find Stefan (the Bulgarian painter) again. The address I had wasn't the place I was looking for but another gallery instead. Thus I got to meet a woman who does striking things mixing cloth, paint and transferring photographs over top. I did manage to locate him and the others too, making new acquaintances in the process. Roamed around a bunch, ate gelatto, and hung out with Pia and company late in the evenings. A good balance of work and play overall. Thursday night we went out to meet some of her acquaintances - a few girls were from Belgrade and confirmed this as truth by the first thing they asked me: "Where do you live in Beograd?" Location is everything, even when away from home I suppose. Also got to chat with a great guy from Chad in French (huzzah), it was nice to be free once more in a foreign tongue. It was a fun last night but getting home in the wee smalls and then chatting more made our planned departure time on Friday of 10 a.m. impossible. Instead took a more leisurely time, had one last cappuccino with Pia in the square by the apartment (here we are below), and then hit the road (well, the valporetto that took us to the road).
Swung through Trieste - wish that had more time to visit there, it was simply gorgeous with the coast in the sun - and continued the drive back home. But took longer than planned (stopping to eat helped that) so I didn't get to my apartment until 1 a.m. And I had classes at 10 a.m. that morning (which I still had to prep). Still, I did it and survived (and slept a whole ton last night finally). In short a good trip where I learned a bunch. I'll post photos soon so you can enjoy the plethora of pretty old buildings that surrounded me for the past 10 days.
Monday, March 31, 2008
Venice... no, I don't speak Italian
Made it to Venice Weds, the trip was a long one (about 8 hours and the traffic outside of Venice didn't help) but finally made it, met Pia (a fabulous architecture student from Istria) and began the trek from the parking garage to boat to walking and walking to the apartment, right on Campo St. Maria Formosa. It's a lovely big square and extremely central. Dinner that night was our tourist trap experience (get that out of the way quickly I suppose), although tasty, and walking along the main canal was lovely in the darkness.
All that beauty begins to become a bit mundane after awhile, I'm sure. I caught myself today simply nodding over a canal that, had I seen the view a few days ago, would have been incredibly picturesque. Living in a postcard, that's what people do here.
Been exploring a lot, both alone and with Momcilo. I found a great little restaurant on Thursday tucked away near Rialdo bridge, we went for dinner that night and it was a fantastic time. Food was excellent, the place was warm and cosy (and full of Italians, always a good sign). Had cicchetti to start (like tapas), then great pasta and fish, homemade tiramisu for dessert. I've eaten more pasta in the past few days, but it's so good I can't help myself. Figure with all the walking I'm doing no harm will be done.
Friday night went out with Pia, her roommate Sara (from Ljubljana, also studying architecture) met up with us. First was a cozy little wine bar where outside seats are from a theater of some sort. Venice is totally no smoking inside, so we sat outside and enjoyed our glass together while chatting about this and that (the craziness of family is always a good starting point). Later went to a courtyard full of places near Rialdi teaming with people; everyone just stands outside and talks, many of the bars there have no space inside nor any seating. Met Igor (another from Serbia/Bosnia) and some others, lots of chatting in a funny mix of Serbo-Croatian, Italian, English.
Saturday went to Lido (after aborted trip to San Lorenzo - the monastery is only open in the afternoon for visitors), strolled along the beaches in the sun. I went around solo later on eating gelatto (sooo yummy), got a bit pink by the end. On the boat back talked a little with a woman who had met a Venetian and here she is with 2 kids, one 8, the other a baby. We both agreed about how life is full of surprising twists. In the evening I took myself out for a glass of wine and chatted with the bartender Andre (we'd met the night before). Ended up sharing champagne with a group of Italians (the girl had opened the bottle with a sword; most impressive), then talking with others who came and went at the bar. The funniest was a Bulgarian painter, his Italian friend and Swiss girlfriend. Stefan, the Bulgarian, was shocked that I could speak Serbian - he doesn't know English at all - so we were talking na srpskom, I was discussing nuance in French with the lady and getting insider information about Venice from the Italian in English. Crazy times, but a whole lot of fun.
Murano was my destination yesterday. Met a Iraqi vet and his family on the boat there - the man's leg was a graphic mess of scars from a roadside bomb as well as over a dozen surgeries. Originally he was told he'd lose the leg, then that he'd never walk again. But there he was only one crutch and a bit of a hobble. He said that now hard because doesn't know exactly what he'll do; he's always been a solider and plans to stay in the army. They were enjoying Venice so much though that they'd decided to stay instead of going to Rome as planned. I love this part of traveling solo, just touching people's stories is moving (unfortunately it seems to be moving me towards cliche, so I'll avoiding sweeping philosophy right now). Murano was cute and little, learned about glass in the museum - pieces from 1st century AD were INCREDIBLE to see. Strolled, got espresso in little bar with only minimal counters (one of the stand outside since there are no seats variety). Looked in a bunch of glass shops and realized that everything is made for people with houses- glass is not the nomadic possession. Also kitch abounds in incredible amounts.
I missed meeting up with the people from the night before since had class (yes, I am still working daily). Later in the evening Pia, Sara, their friend Ana (all three are blonde with one syllable names. Such a crew) met up with Momcilo and I, we went looking for a lively looking (or at least not totally dead) bar, talked and joked into the evening. There are so many tourist places here that actual places were locals gather are few; Venice is also not a night life kind of town.
Today was more wandering - I ran into the woman from the boat with the baby and she recommended my going to the Ghetto, so I checked that out. The sun is covered in a faint haze, but still I'm glad the rain is gone for now. Not sure plans for the rest of the week but between relaxing with good books, teaching, and wandering I'm sure to keep myself occupied....
All that beauty begins to become a bit mundane after awhile, I'm sure. I caught myself today simply nodding over a canal that, had I seen the view a few days ago, would have been incredibly picturesque. Living in a postcard, that's what people do here.
Been exploring a lot, both alone and with Momcilo. I found a great little restaurant on Thursday tucked away near Rialdo bridge, we went for dinner that night and it was a fantastic time. Food was excellent, the place was warm and cosy (and full of Italians, always a good sign). Had cicchetti to start (like tapas), then great pasta and fish, homemade tiramisu for dessert. I've eaten more pasta in the past few days, but it's so good I can't help myself. Figure with all the walking I'm doing no harm will be done.
Friday night went out with Pia, her roommate Sara (from Ljubljana, also studying architecture) met up with us. First was a cozy little wine bar where outside seats are from a theater of some sort. Venice is totally no smoking inside, so we sat outside and enjoyed our glass together while chatting about this and that (the craziness of family is always a good starting point). Later went to a courtyard full of places near Rialdi teaming with people; everyone just stands outside and talks, many of the bars there have no space inside nor any seating. Met Igor (another from Serbia/Bosnia) and some others, lots of chatting in a funny mix of Serbo-Croatian, Italian, English.
Saturday went to Lido (after aborted trip to San Lorenzo - the monastery is only open in the afternoon for visitors), strolled along the beaches in the sun. I went around solo later on eating gelatto (sooo yummy), got a bit pink by the end. On the boat back talked a little with a woman who had met a Venetian and here she is with 2 kids, one 8, the other a baby. We both agreed about how life is full of surprising twists. In the evening I took myself out for a glass of wine and chatted with the bartender Andre (we'd met the night before). Ended up sharing champagne with a group of Italians (the girl had opened the bottle with a sword; most impressive), then talking with others who came and went at the bar. The funniest was a Bulgarian painter, his Italian friend and Swiss girlfriend. Stefan, the Bulgarian, was shocked that I could speak Serbian - he doesn't know English at all - so we were talking na srpskom, I was discussing nuance in French with the lady and getting insider information about Venice from the Italian in English. Crazy times, but a whole lot of fun.
Murano was my destination yesterday. Met a Iraqi vet and his family on the boat there - the man's leg was a graphic mess of scars from a roadside bomb as well as over a dozen surgeries. Originally he was told he'd lose the leg, then that he'd never walk again. But there he was only one crutch and a bit of a hobble. He said that now hard because doesn't know exactly what he'll do; he's always been a solider and plans to stay in the army. They were enjoying Venice so much though that they'd decided to stay instead of going to Rome as planned. I love this part of traveling solo, just touching people's stories is moving (unfortunately it seems to be moving me towards cliche, so I'll avoiding sweeping philosophy right now). Murano was cute and little, learned about glass in the museum - pieces from 1st century AD were INCREDIBLE to see. Strolled, got espresso in little bar with only minimal counters (one of the stand outside since there are no seats variety). Looked in a bunch of glass shops and realized that everything is made for people with houses- glass is not the nomadic possession. Also kitch abounds in incredible amounts.
I missed meeting up with the people from the night before since had class (yes, I am still working daily). Later in the evening Pia, Sara, their friend Ana (all three are blonde with one syllable names. Such a crew) met up with Momcilo and I, we went looking for a lively looking (or at least not totally dead) bar, talked and joked into the evening. There are so many tourist places here that actual places were locals gather are few; Venice is also not a night life kind of town.
Today was more wandering - I ran into the woman from the boat with the baby and she recommended my going to the Ghetto, so I checked that out. The sun is covered in a faint haze, but still I'm glad the rain is gone for now. Not sure plans for the rest of the week but between relaxing with good books, teaching, and wandering I'm sure to keep myself occupied....
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