Kopaonik

After getting moved into my apartment, I headed for the hills (literally) for a job as an English teacher at an English summer camp for kids 8-16 on Kopaonik mountain in southern Serbia (I'll pause here to ask what preposition goes with mountains in English since this isn't something I've done much of in English. Is it I was AT Kopaonik? or ON Kop? I'm banking not IN Kop - that sounds too odd.) It was 2 weeks room & board with pay at the end - I was suspicious about the amount of work the woman said I'd be doing, but, hey, it's an adventure.

The first one was getting a taxi to Sava center to catch the bus- a friend said I could text for one, and I did, but when I got down there there was nothing at all. So waited a little bit but running late - headed to Bulevar and hailed one (which is hard to do at 7 a.m. on a Saturday), banking that I know enough Serbian to tell the guy if he tried to rip me off. I'd been told it was vital for me to be on time, and yet when I got there not even everyone was there yet - it was a sign for how the next weeks would go. Very chill more than not.

I'll not go into the nitty-gritty of daily life except to say that I had 2 classes a day, one in morning and one in late afternoon, then evening activity and meals that I had to be present for. My colleagues were are nice folks, a couple had worked the camp before so knew the ropes. There 2 guys for sports and 2 other ladies teaching English. Most of daily life happened in Serbian (even though the camp was advertised as English immersion) which was good for my listening comprehension at meals and things, although I'd stop and make sure I was getting everything when it seemed necessary. At one point it dawned on some of them that listening and understanding takes a lot of energy which is why I didn't say much often (a new role, yes). The kids were a good group over all, they were from all over Serbia and Montenegro along with some ex-pats back for the summer. I had the most advanced group in English and we had a decent time although I didn't think much of the textbook I was given and it seemed like a lot of review for them, oh well. I worked with what I was given and didn't have to be too mean usually. Although I did scare them when I went off after someone whined "It's not fair" about how I didn't want to hear those words in my classroom again. Grammar exercises were probably my most reoccurring threat and when they were good I'd tell them stories (like "okie-dokie bye for now" one that's a Qualls favorite- they liked it).

But enough pseudo-fussing; Kopaonik is a gorgeous place. It's the place to ski in the winter and is basically a resort village/town at the base of the ski lifts. I forgot to mention but our campers were in mini-apartments with 3 beds, kitchen stuff, bathrooms, whole shebang- not a cabin or tent in sight. A bit different than Bradford woods. In the summer there's tons of hiking to be had, whenever the weather was good I'd go on a solo tramp somewhere (we also took the kids on a ramble the second day that was pretty great). Made it to the top of some of the lifts, the best day was when I went to the highest point twice in one day (over 2000 m up). Lots of woods as well, often I'd go read or write somewhere before heading back down into 'civilization' to teach. There are wild blueberries and raspberries everywhere; I ate a lot of them on my rambles. There's nothing better than a slightly sun-warmed sweet red raspberry, I tell you what. And yes, I hummed "The hills are alive" every so often. It was an irresistible urge.

Speaking of food, apparently I was WAY allergic to something I ate because in the first week I broke out in a HUGE rash all over my body. I was one big red itch, very unfun. We had an on-call doctor who was a lovely woman, she checked me out and gave me some meds. And when that didn't work - the next evening I was even worse - I got a shot of something much more hardcore. I discovered during this ordeal a new level of Hell that Dante forgot - you wake up at 2:30 a.m., your body one bit burning itch you can't scratch because it will do no good (and since you're not sure why it's spreading you don't want to risk it moving around more by touching). You can't get comfortable enough to try and fall asleep, so you toss and turn looking for a position that offers at least a modicum of ease. And to top it all off there's LOUD turbofolk blasting from the café below, filtering in to make your bed of pain that much worse. (I was ecstatic when the shot made everything go away after a day or so).

The second weekend was rainy and cold, although we did get a short hike in to a geyser en masse. It felt like November - I can't ever remember needing to wear multi-layers under a sweatshirt on the first day of August before. Went swimming a few times, enjoyed the sauna a bit as well. Read a whole lot - Bill Bryson's Mother Tongue is excellent by the way. I think my colleagues didn't know quite what to make of me - often they went to while away the morning drinking coffee. But there were mountains calling my name.

It was nice being in nature and I did like the kids - they were creative in funny ways. We had a costume ball and a group dressed up as the Taliban, did a sketch involving GW that, while somewhat tasteless, was done in English and pretty well done for all that. I saved the day with blockbusters - thanks Nick! - a few evenings; we also had skits for the last night which were hilarious. The middle group went shopping and then had a negative brush with Madonna, mine did a Pizza Hut commercial involving the Terminator and a silly news broadcast about people water-skiing because of the rain, a massive outcry due to a pizza shortage. Entertaining. After one class I was swarmed by kids wanting me to come and teach in their primary schools since I was "cool" and "interesting." Flattering to say the least but I'm hesitant about high school kids and discipline there - listening to my colleagues at schools here doesn't make me want to get into the little ones in a mass kinda way. They wrote some heart-wrenching essays as well- most life changing experiences, people they admire. I was impressed.

Alright, that's enough babble. I was ready to come home by the end, really and truly. I've not gotten paid as promised and that makes me mad (but isn't that big of a surprise). But being back in Beograd is great and I'm hoping I can go back to Kop in the winter to ski with some friends because that would be totally rad.

first party!

Currently in that awkward time where I'm having a party that offically starts in 10 minutes but I know no one will be here for about a half hour at least, so what to do? I was brave and went to tell all my neighbors that I live here, having a party na srpskom. Went ok. My across the hall neighbors are super nice family, the two girls are 16/17ish and super sweet, helped me with what I needed to say and everything. They're coming to this motley bash that I'm having, it should be cool. And not noisy (as I assured couple two floors down).

Kopoanik was a beautiful place and I'll write up my English/Serbian adventures there sooner than later (rashes, kids, hiking are some of the upcoming highlights) as well as photos. Just settling back into home life and getting all the pesky logistics lined up with apartment and work for the fall. But it's coming together. Thinking of home and all back there, looks like I'll get back in December sometime so that's something to look towards.... but now it's party time!

Novi Stan!

(Means "new apartment" in Serbian)

Zdravo again. Made it back to Belgrade and have slowly catapulted back into "real life" (notice two posts in one day!). Objective number one was to find an apartment, so Julia and I signed up with an agency that looks for you and then you pay them afterwards (there are tons that demand money upfront but not trusting that so much). Dusan was my fellow apartment looker/translator as we tramped around most of last Wednesday afternoon and evening with Marija, our agent. Saw tons of stuff and then was struck by one in Vracar. So looked at it again next day (in the daylight) and decided it was what I wanted. I've never rented an apartment before, so this whole process (in a language I still struggle to speak) has been very challenging but positive on the whole. Friday morning came to sign the contract, the owner was late and going to be later when we called, so went to cafe nearby with Marija and Dusan, he joined us. There's something very civilized about reading contracts and discussing terms over espresso. Terribly Belgrade as well. We then all went to the place, did final check through, I handed over ridiculous sums of money and then we had coffee on the roof terrace (and now I've learned how to make Greek/Turkish/Serbian coffee from my landlady). Just fabulous.

Here are some photos of pre-moved into apartment, but it's basically a living/bedroom with a little terrace, entryway with bathroom, then kitchen (with study corner and excellent comfy chair that I'm typing this on). The kicker (besides the natural light) was the roof access - whole roof deck that I share with across the hall neighbors (who I still need to meet), just fantastic. Also the fact the kitchen and bathroom are black, red, and white - what I wanted to do my first kitchen in (so my scale matches!). The neighborhood is residential, pretty quiet but right next to one of the major thoroughfares. I'm about a half hour walk from center where I've been working (was 20 minutes before), and close to both Julia and Dusan. Just great. Already had folks over on the weekend for iced sun tea and then watching "Aladdin" on the roof outside in the dark (power had gone out on the block so better out there).

Of course, the other big event of this weekend was the release of Harry Potter - I picked up my copy at 1 a.m. Glad I'd pre-ordered it since the line was so long. Met another American there, she's also teaching here - maybe we'll get together sometime. It was hard though needing to pack and move-in whilst Harry was calling my name. So adjusted to new digs mostly by reading, unpacking is taking its sweet sweet time (although now that I'm done with the book have no real excuse left). People have left for the sea, I'm going to Kopaonik mountain on the weekend for a 2 week English camp for kids - must be summer in Beograd.

I'll post moved in photos after I get good paintings up and all that, so be on the lookout. Also will send out my new address after we've made everything official with the police.

Greece- the wrap-up

The past month and a half have gone by so very fast; I can't believe I'm back in Beograd again. I left for Athens early June and stayed with some friends for a few days enjoying not teaching and looking at amazing old dead rocks (yes, it's irreverent, but you must admit it's accurate). The Acropolis was incredible, looking out over a city is always one of my favorite things, but the detail and just feeling the weight of history was amazing. The Parthenon was a thing of grace and beauty despite its trappings of scaffolding as they work to restore it. The Archeological museum had so much in it but I missed having someone who knew the stories with me to make it that much more real. Linear B is pretty darn rad though (early writing) as were some of the sculptures. Again, the sheer age was astounding (and I've learned a bit more since then, so that's great). Otherwise really enjoyed just hanging out at Mike & Traci's place in Filothei (lovely folks Rebecca got me in contact with).

I headed to Korinthos after a few days to join the dig. Korinthos (Corinth) has many parts: there's Acro, the old fortress up on a mountain/big hill (500+ meters) that overlooks Archaia (Ancient) Korinthos, which is the archeological site as well as a small village where we were based. There was an earthquake (mid 19th C?) and so the main town, Neo Korinthos, is a few kilometers away on the coast proper. It's a good sized town, had banks, shops, lots of cafes and internet access (huzzah). When I got to Rooms Marinos Susan and Andrew were there, it was like having home come to me. Andrew's a lot bigger than last I saw him two years ago (being 5 will do that), that's for sure.

I won't go into painstaking detail about the next few weeks but basically the days started at 6 a.m. breakfast and then everyone caught the bus to Kenchreai to go work (leaving me and a sleepy Andrew to plot our next move). Andrew and I would go on different adventures as we fancied until 2 or 3 when Susan would come back, the rest of the crew (we were around 50-60 at the height) at 3:30. Then hanging out, staying out of the heat until our 8:30 dinner. Naps became quite necessary for basically everyone. Andrew and I often went to the beach with John, Helen and Thomas (the two other kids on site and their dad) although they left after 2 weeks. We also explored our environs, making trips to Neo Korinthos via bus to play on the "big" playground, run errands and then go sit in a cafe and color while I drank frappe. Now Andrew knows how to pick a café - look at the seating and pick most comfy looking ones. It was a pleasant challenge keeping things interesting for a dynamic 5 year old. He was adopted by all the staff as well, making afternoons fun as we played with the "big kids."

On the weekends the education program had trips around to different sites. The first Saturday we hiked Acrokorinth - Andrew and I made it to the top on our own! Again, I don't want to become a total travelogue, but there are tons of things to see in the area. Unfortunately often we were pressed for time as herding around a group of over 30 students took more time than planned. Paracora was gorgeous - it's a sanctuary for travelers where they'd stop on their way out to sea. Also Mycenae with its massiveness (the lion gate is there) and an excellent little museum. Andrew and Susan came on that trip so going through the site was highlighted by Andrew having been "kidnapped by the Sea People" and thus hiding behind me being invisible to one and all. Luckily our guess that he'd been taken to the cistern was correct (bad guys tending to go to dark places) and he was restored to us. Huzzah.

We had a long weekend off starting with the educational program taking us to Athens. I ended up hanging out with Mike, crashing with Mel (a friend of his) who's working at the Agora. His roommates had organized a party, but then some people came and said it'd been canceled. Turned out to be the best canceled party ever with lots of folks from the Agora dig showing up and hanging out. I enjoyed pretending to be an archeologist for a bit (although I'd come clean about my full part on the team after awhile). Bizarre dynamics though - our Kenchreai crew had much better bonding, basically no catty drama or anything of that sort. The next morning Mike and I headed to Hydra, a totally pedestrian island that we explored most of upon arrival as we looked for a place to sleep (a fun game). By the end we'd been directed by an old woman (Mike speaks Greek) to basically the highest house (which had rooms) where the man said he had nothing but would call his travel agency and see if they could help. After a short rest (this is all between 12-14h by the way and HOT) we headed back down to port. There was no room at the agency but a hotel, one of the first we'd passed, had things free. So always check the first stuff you pass. Later we explored the labyrinth to go up to a monastery/church overlooking the town below. Ate a little picnic, watched the sun slowly set- completely lovely. Almost as much as not having to get out of bed at 6 the next morning. I really do enjoy islands - we explored more the next day, ate excellent seafood and then caught a fast boat to Athens to take train to Korinthos; it was hard to go back to "the daily grind" even if had only been a few days out.

I fell in love with Nafpilo, a coastal town that was briefly the capital of Greece during the early days of the Greek state. It had the best gelatto ever (Italian run place), great walks, little beach (not the best but still easy to access). I ended up staying basically two weekends there - it was part of the excursion one weekend and I and some others just stayed, finding a pension. That weekend everything took 3 hours - frappe, dinner, ouzo on the sweet little balcony of our room. Really enjoyed relaxing with Katie and Mike. When I left the dig (Susan was flying back) I just went back because I liked it so much. Went swimming, ate more gelatto and seafood, tramped around more with Mike- a great way to end time in Greece.

In short a wonderful experience and one I was sad to have end. It was a great group of people not in the least because of their unfettered dork-ness and love of jokes (alright, so not everyone liked them. But still). I mean, any group that supports my throwing basically 3 birthday parties is one worth being around isn't it? As promised, there are photos as well. I'd go on and on, but feel I'm stretching word count. Next installment: new apartment!